This will be difficult to answer without seeing, but looking for some advice as to whether anyone thinks this will be an issue for me (see pic below). I currently have a 40' fifth wheel and F-250 SuperDuty truck. I can back into my driveway -- but it is very tricky...with exactly one way in. Mess it up even slightly and it results in a do-over. There are several obstacles that include: a curb opposite my driveway, fire hydrant opposite driveway so can't swing front end of truck over the curb or they will make contact, utility pole at corner of driveway that my fiver bumper will hit if it doesn't swing early enough to avoid. And of course there is the apron entrance to the driveway and mailbox. I have two friends that drive a truck...and the only way I was able to get the rig in the driveway when I brought it home was on their advice on how to set up properly. My wife and I fell in love with a Tiffin Allegro 35QBA this past weekend...and are seriously considering trading our fiver in on it. But we are concerned if we will get the camper in the driveway -- either by backing or pulling in. I did note on my test drive of the Tiffin that I didn't have to swing nearly as wide for turns as I do with my truck and fiver...but having very little motorhome experience is leaving me with this big question. Closest dealer is 2 hours away...so not really possible to bring it home and try. Any words of wisdom here? Thanks.

It should not be that expensive to expand the approach apron on your driveway to the right in your picture which should make it easier to get an almost straight path in to the driveway from the cul-de-sac.

It looks doable to me. Perhaps re-engineer the mailbox and have it slip over a sleeve set into the concrete so it can be removed when needed.

I cannot widen my driveway because it is already 18' wide...and town ordinance states that is maximum. I did give some thought into filling in a triangular area of the grass with concrete that borders the street and edge of my driveway....and moving my mailbox. And then using a portable ramp to allow the driver's side of the coach to ride up the ramp. I actually gave some thought to that recently when I wanted to widen the driveway for getting the fiver in...but was denied approval by the town. Just wondering if motorhomes can swing tighter or not. Without a pivot point in the middle, it doesn't seem it would...but the overall length is shorter than my current setup which is 54' long form front of truck to back of fiver.

I have to remind you that MH's do not bend in the middle like trucks and 5th wheels do.

I have been surprised with the turning radius of my 31' motor home. As wide as your driveway is, and the pictures of your 5'er, it looks to me that it will be easier to put a motor home in there than the 5'er.That MH should have a 20' wheelbase.

Help determining if I can get a motorhome into my driveway

Canadian_Rainbi
Explorer
Mar 05, 2015
Like rgatijnet1 said near the beginning, pave a bit of that corner if after a test drive shows it won't make it. (I think it will).

We have parked our DP on this stuff for years. (Make a good base: 12" of compacted 3/4 road base, 4" of compacted sand.)
frankdamp
Explorer
Mar 05, 2015
We didn't have a problem when we had a 96" wide Class C, but when we started considering a 102" wide Class A it cot very interesting. We did solve the problem, but it took some careful work.

Out third driveway section, alongside the garage was really tight for 102" wide. The gas meter was on that wall and stuck out quite a way. Gas company rules said it had to be a certain distance from the wall, so we couldn't move it closer.

S-I-L and I took about 8" off the garage roof overhang, which lined it up with the bollard that protected the gas meter. We put a deeper fascia board for the gutter, to maintain the same level to meet the mitered corner at the front of the garage.

It worked quite well and we could get the MH in there, driving VERY carefully. The surprise was, we couldn't open the house door because it hit the gutter, still at its original level. We lived with the deficiency until we sold the RV, backing it down far enough to be able to open the house door when preparing for a trip. Had we kept it longer, I'd have re-configured the gutter system to allow us to open the door when it was fully docked.
xctraveler
Explorer
Mar 04, 2015
I would not hesitate putting my 36QSH in that driveway. My son in VA has a farm yard which I reach up a 1/8 mile dirt drive. We have a level pad about 6 feet longer than the coach at 90 deg to the driveway. the depth of the parking area is less than the length of the coach and the width is not quite twice the length of the coach. It takes anywhere from 4 to 7 reversals to turn around so I can back onto the pad! (depends on getting the start just right and how soft the garden is). The entire family disappears indoors while DW and I spot the coach :) Haven't hit the house yet, did take out a fence years ago when the garden was real soft and a wheel slipped over the edge.

It is much easier these days. We have done it at least twice a year for 11 years.
time_to_go_now
Explorer
Mar 04, 2015
No problem. I suspect you will want to pull in so that the coach door is facing your house. I do drag the ass end a little going in and out, but I have a bit of an incline to get up before it levels off in my driveway.

And, if I could fit a 38QBA in my driveway, I would already have one. Love our 35QBA, but would switch in a minute if I could. Not to mention the money saved (depreciation) buying used over new.

Good luck.
crabbin_cabin
Explorer II
Mar 04, 2015
Drive into the main parking space ( head first) then back into and around to the MH parking area. With a little practice should be easy!
DazedNConfused
Explorer
Mar 04, 2015
JimM68 wrote:
DazedNConfused wrote:
dieharder wrote:
Stop overthinking it. You'll be fine. The first couple of times you might need to reposition yourself a couple of times, but after that you'll probably do it faster than with your TT.

Nope...I'm sold. The question really came into play because the MH doesn't articulate in the middle is all. But with the 20' wheelbase and lots of input from others, this should be a snap. I sometimes have to reposition my fiver as well -- not to get it into the driveway -- but to move it all the way to one side.

Now the big decision....new 35QBA gasser or used 38QBA Red :) But that's a whole other topic...

Not a discussion at all. DP's are better, period. That is why they cost more. If you have a line on a DP that has a floor plan you can live with at a price you can afford, go for it. You'll never look bac k and will never regret it.

We did just that. In the process of having a Tiffin Allegro RED 38QBA pusher built. Hoping it will make it into my driveway without dragging anything. Driveway is very flat...just worried about anything that may drag before the rear wheels hit and start travelling up the apron. I'll find out in early April when we bring it home.
sssooo
Explorer
Nov 08, 2014
measure out your driveway then go to dealer and put down some orange cones to the size of your drive and see just how easy it will be
JimM68
Explorer
Nov 08, 2014
DazedNConfused wrote:
dieharder wrote:
Stop overthinking it. You'll be fine. The first couple of times you might need to reposition yourself a couple of times, but after that you'll probably do it faster than with your TT.

Nope...I'm sold. The question really came into play because the MH doesn't articulate in the middle is all. But with the 20' wheelbase and lots of input from others, this should be a snap. I sometimes have to reposition my fiver as well -- not to get it into the driveway -- but to move it all the way to one side.

Now the big decision....new 35QBA gasser or used 38QBA Red :) But that's a whole other topic...

Not a discussion at all. DP's are better, period. That is why they cost more. If you have a line on a DP that has a floor plan you can live with at a price you can afford, go for it. You'll never look bac k and will never regret it.
cpoo
Explorer
Nov 07, 2014
PastorCharlie wrote:
I would approach from the right of the picture very close to the curb on the right side of the MH and stop the rear wheel at the curb intersection of driveway and street curb. (The MH will pivot at the rear wheel) Turn the steering wheels hard to the right before moving backward and it will go right in.

The overhand is not long enough to teach across the 18' drive to his the mailbox if the MH is kept close to the driveway edge on the right side while backing. The MH is not long enough to have a problem with the fire hydrant on the opposite side of the 26' street.

Do the math. AGAIN...the MH will pivot at the rear wheel.

I agree it will work. Many people make the mistak of starting on far sie instead of near side and pivoting. I have much tighter at my cottage with 37 ft. Some spots a few back and forth help.
Cloud_Dancer
Explorer II
Nov 07, 2014
I would avoid calling the rear tires a pivot point. In order for a rear tire to become a true pivot point, the front steer tires would have to cut 90 degrees. I believe that about 55 degrees is close to the maximum angle that they will turn.