Help with leveling 1984 Ford Corsair

I tried the Lego type blocks but found that they broke to easy and were a pain to setup when you don't get it right the first time and had to drive off,re-stack, and make them higher,to labor intensive.

When I bought my RV,a Former Rental, it came with Tri Level Ramps They don't break and if they are good enough to withstand the use in that market they must be good.

I have used them a lot in the last 7 years and have had no problems and they are easy to use and store. I have 6 just incase but never have used them all,4 is the most I have ever needed,most times just 2 if at all,they were for the rear duallys.

I found that The Tri leveler work very well.

RV owner's manuals are usually not all that helpful, sad to say. Mostly they tend to be rather thin and generic (covering all the company's models, or at least a rather large range of models) and then they throw in the manuals and other information for all the appliances and accessories that were built into the motorhome. Those appliance manuals can usually be found online without too much difficulty if the need comes up.

There are a few exceptions, but that's the usual way things are. A few companies (Winnebago and Airstream being examples) have available good service information like wiring and plumbing diagrams for the asking, but that's the exception rather than the rule.

There are some decent books along the lines of "RVing for dummies" that cover most of what the owner's manual would, and probably more: things like winterizing and dewinterizing and sanitizing the plumbing, etc.

Thanks for the info I really appreciate it. I was thinking that it needed to be leveled and on stands when sitting a long time so it’s not so bouncy inside when walking around due to it still being on the suspension. But I’ve seen those leveling blocks so I’ll check out a set thanks.

If you have any info or direction I might be able to find an owners manual too I’d appreciate it. I am having a helluva time digging up any info from the 80’s on this thing. I have the Haynes book for the 350 so I should be okay there

You can't lift the chassis by the rear bumper. It's nowher near strong enough; you have several tons of weight to support.

For jacking up (to change a tire, for instance), typically you'd position the jack under the rear axle underneath the spring attachment point for a rear wheel, having securely chocked the diagonally opposite front wheel first. (I don't know if it's the case for your chassis, but some years some of the E series chassis use a driveshaft brake for the parking brake, which means that if one of the rear wheels is not touching the ground there is absolutely no braking to prevent the vehicle from shifting.)

For jacking the front wheels, it's a somewhat similar concept; the jack point is along the wheel's I-beam of the twin I beam suspension, with the factory jack (at least on my rather newer chassis) being intended to lift via a peg on the I-beam. With a bottle jack, it's easier to just jack the bottom of the I beam itself.

For leveling when camping or whatever, assuming you don't have built-in leveling jacks (and I suspect you don't) it's far easier and safer to use some sort of ramps. I carry a collection of various lengths of 2x10 with beveled ends, stacked as needed to get level. A reasonably level camp site rarely needs more than one or two on a wheel. For the dual rear wheels, two sets are needed per side so both tires are supported. There are also interlocking plastic bricks, somewhat like oversized Lego, that are available and commonly used.

Rear bumpers are not usually strong enough for short term jacking much less long term. Does the RV owners’ booklet address this?