Holley 4 barrel carburetor problem

Problem with the Edlebrock Fuel Injection kit is I don't think it is approved in California for emission controls.

Bob

Ours was a few years older, but as I try to recall, the choke housing had a heat tube down to the intake manifold. Again recall, but the intake had an exhaust crossover to heat the carburetor base, and the that heat tube worked off of it. THEN the Choke Cover (the black Bakelite piece with the thermostatic coil in it) incorporated a thermostatic switch. It would not start to pull the choke off till the engine was well on its way to warmed up. A carb specialty shop sold me a "fast choke" which had no thermostatic switch. Choke heater came on as soon as the engine was running. Living in the Sunny South, I didn't need all that warm-up process. The Air Intake also had thermo stuff. A "Stove" over the passenger side exhaust manifold, with tubing to a "box" between radiator support and air filter. Replaced all that with 4-inch flexible dryer vent tubing.

choke unit should have power to it with engine running.some are controlled by oil pressure,most get the voltage from a terminal on the altenator

This FTE Thread puts the idle adjustment screws in the carburetor base plate (throttle plate) behind metal plugs.

Related to navegator's comment - At least on ours, the carburetor sat on a thick gasket on top of an EGR Plate. The Plate sat on a thin gasket on top of the Intake Manifold itself. We all replace that thick "carb gasket" but that other gasket can burn through and be a vacuum leak under there. In our case, the thin gasket was shot, but part of the reason why was the plate had rusted tight to the mounting studs. When I tightened the stud nuts on top of the carb, I was crushing the thick gasket OK, but not the thin one.

Ok, this is not helpful, but...
Edelbrock makes a bolt-on throttle body fuel injection kit that will stop you from having to adjust idle mixture ever again. :)

With time the carburators warp yust enough to let air be sucked in bewen the gaskets and throw off the mixture ratio, when I used to rebuild the carbs I would take a pane of window glass and place very fine emery cloth soaked in ATF and grind the the parts until there where no high spots, a few strokes is all it takes if you need more then the carb is junk, the other thing that I found will distort the carbs are over tigntening the covers for the air filters.

navegator

Google is your friend:

linky

Idle screws are on the metering block on the lower portion on each side.
Metering block is sandwiched between the main body and the bowl. (on the primary side)
Emissions requirements could have them sealed and covered.

No power to the choke heater will be an issue of rich mixture.

This pic shows no idle screws. :(

http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=R50174