hOUSE wATER pUMP

after burning out 3 latching relays in 2 years I just got finished eliminating the relay and just basic wired one switch with a tell tale lite,my motorhome is not so big I can't walk 10 feet to turn the pump on.I only had 3 switches.

Victory to report:

I got the new part and installed it. Everything now works correctly. Additionally this unit seems to be better sealed and should not get wet.

On to new projects.

The latching system on my Bounder water pump failed a couple of time. Both times it was a failed momentary switch, stuck in the closed position. Remove the wires from one switch and see if the system works, if not move on to the next switch until you find the switch that failed.

Richard

SkyCop......Follow the ground wire from the pump controller to wherever it connects to the coach frame (ground). Remove this connection, clean it up and reconnect. Most issues like you're now reporting are ground related. Usually, pump controllers work or don't work, no in between. It doesn't mean yours isn't bad, but make sure the main ground is clean.

Ok, more information. Before the new water pump was added the sporatic operation consisted of the pump just turning ON. Now it will hardly turn on without recycling the battery switches and even then it is iffy. I pilled the control unit and it does have some corrosion. I tryed cleaning it up, but to no avail. I will have a new one (about 65.00) tomorrow and will report back. Thanks for all the info.

Pump controller---just replaced one that got doused with water in the wet bay. Had sporadic operation, light flashes, dim lights at switches, among other symptoms. Our Tiffin has the latching switch/relay/controller above, this is our 3rd one in 10 years. The controller allows longer run light gauge wires to the switches which are bundled together and short heavy gauge wires to the pump from the controller.

SkyCop.......Here is a real life photo of what a pump controller looks like:



It's called a water pump "latching" controller. With just this one controller you could literally add a 1000 water pump switches to your RV. The controller is usually within 24" of the water pump. The water pump takes a fairly large size wire to operate and it would be impractical (now days) to run that much large wire around the coach. Instead they use a controller. The large wiring from the pump is run just to the controller. To make it function, they run a single (smaller) wire to switches in your coach. The wire is connected to the switch (momentary switch) and the other side of the switch is connected to ground. Every time you hit the switch, it momentarily touches ground and sends a signal to the controller to either turn on or off, depending what it was doing before the switch was operated.

Find your water pump and follow the wires, they should lead you to the controller, usually screwed to a bay wall. If you need a new controller, buy two. They're inexpensive and something you should have a spare of. If ever in an emergency, you can always disconnect the pump from the controller, connect the wires and leave it on all the time.

Good diagram posted by "RLS7201"

Here is an example of how the pump controller is wired.



Richard

Water pumps can demand a lot of more amps that a switch circuit might have the capacity to handle. As such you might have a relay somewhere that actually powers the pump, not to be confused with the internal pump shut off pressure switch. Check with the coach manufacture if it has such and where it might be. Also check the ground wire coming from the pump. It might need attention if it is grounded to the chassis and exposed to the elements.

There is a pump controller somewhere. Fleetwood usually uses Intellitec. Not sure where it is mounted. Fleetwood Tech Support is usually very helpful.

Since the pump shuts off via pressure, worst case is run a fused hot wire to the pump from the chassis batteries.