How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[timmac]

Big_John>>> I am looking at Chiltons auto repair manual and it says for 361, 383, 413, 426W, 440 and 426 hemi to remove oil pan and filter assembly than remove oil pump from bottom side of engine...these exact words.....

[Big_John1]

timmac wrote:
Has anyone replaced there oil pump on the 440 Dodge class c rv, do you have to lower trans to lift motor up high enough to get oil pan out or is there enough clearance without lowering trans..Need to know, my mech thinks trans have to be removed to get oil pan out...:@

The oil pump is externaly mounted on the 440's. You don't have to remove the pan.

Look at the part that your filter bolts to. That's the pump. Remove the filter and the bolts that hold it to the block. It will slide straight out about 3 inches so you need to be sure there is enough clearance to get it out and the new one in.

BTW, get a new mechanic.

[Noodleman]

O wn a 79 Delta. The only issue I've run into is overheating in teh California summer. Runs like a tank

[timmac]

Has anyone replaced there oil pump on the 440 Dodge class c rv, do you have to lower trans to lift motor up high enough to get oil pan out or is there enough clearance without lowering trans..Need to know, my mech thinks trans have to be removed to get oil pan out...:@

[Big_John1]

D&Sluv2fishandcampMN wrote:
I have a '76 dodge Jamboree class c. I owned this unit for a couple of years and then sold it to my sister. She didn't want it any more after about 2 years so I bought it back from her.

When I first owned it the brakes worked fine. Now when I got it back they are not there at all unless you really put a lot of force down on the pedal. I checked the brake fluid res. and it was very low. I added fluid but this did nothing.

How do I know if there is just a leak and now the brake lines need to be bled, or if it is the master cylinder that is bad? Is there any easy way to tell? If not what step would you take next?

If the brake pedal goes to the floor, then you have a problem with any of the following: brake lines, wheel cylinder(s), brake hoses, master cylinder or any combination of those.

If the brake pedal is hard, like you are saying, but does NOT push down, its most likely a problem with the brake booster. A couple simple things to check is to make sure your vacuum line to the booster is hooked up. The brake pedal will feel just like it does with the engine off, that is no boost and a hard to push pedal. If it is the booster, it will have to be replaced.

Master cylinder problems usually (but not always) show themselves by a brake pedal that sinks slowly to the floor as you hold your foot on the pedal.

Problems with the brake lines can be more drastic, the pedal will drop more rapidly to the floor.

If its a matter of the brakes needing bleeding, then pumping the pedal will generally make the brake pedal firm. If they need bleeding, then you need to find out why there is air in the system to start with.

Have someone with some knowledge of braking systems take a look. This is nothing to fool around with if you are not familar with them.

Hope this helps!

[D_Sluv2fishandc]

I have a '76 dodge Jamboree class c. I owned this unit for a couple of years and then sold it to my sister. She didn't want it any more after about 2 years so I bought it back from her.

When I first owned it the brakes worked fine. Now when I got it back they are not there at all unless you really put a lot of force down on the pedal. I checked the brake fluid res. and it was very low. I added fluid but this did nothing.

How do I know if there is just a leak and now the brake lines need to be bled, or if it is the master cylinder that is bad? Is there any easy way to tell? If not what step would you take next?

[Retro_Cruiser]

Wow! Very Scary....I will check my tank mounts before the next outing.
Thanks for the info..

[landrovercampin]

Although this is a Dodge forum,I would like to warn people of a serious promblem I encounterd with a 1989 ford vanguard class C.My wife &I were traveling down the road when a noise started. It sounded like metal hitting the pavement under the M.H. I stopped and discovered the propane tank had let go on the front.This was a very serious problem as the tank was full and started venting.Who knows where we might be had a spark ignited the vent.This tank is mounted under the water tank.The bolts were cairrage bolts,NO washers and bolted only threw the plywood. There had been a leak so the moisture was saoked into the carpet and foam underlay. We just purchased this unit and it has 39000Kilometers on it.As the water tank sweats,or the fresh water fill leaks or moisture from any source gets in there it does not have any air to dry it.The plastic was still under the tank.please pass this info on to anybody you know who has a vanguard,class C.Mine is the all fibreglass body style. Thanks Bruce

[Lummibeader]

We have a 1977 Dodge 360 Delta RV that we are planning on taking on a trip to move across the country from Washington state to Missouri. We are trying to check it out and see if there are any problems but we do not even have a manual and know very little about RV's.

Anyone have a check list of things we might want to check out??? We finally got the mircowave working, but am not sure what else works. Oh yeah the A/C works too.

[Retro_Cruiser]

Perry,
I can only speak for my 79 model,yours may be different. My oven has a "PILOT" setting on the knob. (Make sure all the other burners are in the "OFF" position by the way..) There is a pilot light inside the oven. Turn the gas on,knob in correct "pilot" position, light the pilot... pretty easy.
Again, yours may be totally different. It would be good to find a manual or directions and don't ever do anything with propane if you're not comfortable..

[Perrye]

What are the steps to light an RV Oven? Thank you, Perry

[timmac]

Looking to see if anyone out there has a Xplorer class C rv from the 70's, wanting to see how many are still in use today, don't see very much of these high quality fiberglass rv's any more, I just might have the only one in Vegas have never seen any at all here.

[Jarlaxle]

I seem to recall, the "peanut" plugs were used on the HD engines. You have a 440-3. 🙂

[75Americanclipp]

Is there some thing that would show if it is a big 440, I had to change my spark plus and and to take them back there were to small, like a 1/2 inch, now I have the right ones, that look longer like an inch

Jarlaxle wrote:

Is there an easy way to tell the 440-1 from the 440-3?

As I recall, look at the harmonic balancer: the regular 440 is neutral-balanced. The 440-3 is externally-balanced, having the same heavy bottom-end parts as the 440 6-pack.

[Retro_Cruiser]

Thanks...

Just in case anyone is planning tire replacement from 8.00 x 16.5 on a class C to the slightly larger 8.75 x 16.5. I did it a couple weeks ago and have been happy with the results... No clearance issues and the slighty taller height helped a little with my low geared rig.. I think this has already been on a thread here, but thought I'd share 😉