How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[eyeteeth]

I just had a 30amp RV service installed on the side of my house by the drive way. 🙂 I think I have about 50' of 30amp extension cord. I'd also like to extend a pipe and make my own "dump" so I don't have to constantly hunt for them. (Lots of boon docking)

[goreds2]

Kendas, thank you very much for replying. I printed out this page with your comments and will use as reference when I uncover the MH to test the air conditoner. Happy camping.

EDIT: I did recently buy an RV extension cord to use from now on.

[Kendas]

goreds2 wrote:

I am keeping my fingers crossed concerning a possible issue. When I bought my MH in Sept, I used a "regular" outdoor extension cord to plug onto my house and work the air conditioner in the MH. In late November before covering it up, I ran the AC via the generator and no cold air came out. Upon reading posts on this site, I have saw where you should use the thicker cord for the AC and not the regular orange outdoor cord. I hope I did not destroy the air conditoner. 😞

Maybe/Maybe not... I ran mine for over a year on an "orange" cord without any problems.

Was the temp control is at it's lowest (coldest) setting and was the air temp inside the RV was somewhere above 60 degrees? If so, try tapping the temp control knob with the handle of a screwdriver.

My Coleman non-ducted sometimes has a "sticky" thermostat and tapping it resets the the mechanical portion of the 'stat.

(ON EDIT): Running a 12ga (yellow) 100ft cord I can run the A/C and the 900 watt micro for about 10 minutes with an outdoor temp above 90F before the dedicated 20a circuit pops

Ken

[Kendas]

😞 I wish would cool off here... 90 yesterday, 91 today, and supposed to be 88 tomorrow.

I may even have to run the truck A/C on the way to see if I'm closer to getting past emissions. :B

[goreds2]

overdrive75 wrote:
Well, who worked on there old Dodge's this weekend. I "sistered in 4 new rafter sections in the rear of my coach from the inside. It worked out good. Now I can move on to the panneling and molding of the ceiling job.

I am going to wait about a month before taking the cover off my MH.

I am keeping my fingers crossed concerning a possible issue. When I bought my MH in Sept, I used a "regular" outdoor extension cord to plug onto my house and work the air conditioner in the MH. In late November before covering it up, I ran the AC via the generator and no cold air came out. Upon reading posts on this site, I have saw where you should use the thicker cord for the AC and not the regular orange outdoor cord. I hope I did not destroy the air conditoner. 😞

[overdrive75]

^^ 7 Inches, I wish we had snow, it's just bone chilling cold here.

[Leeann]

We had a boat racing meeting and we cleaned out the Ugly Van to be ready for sale. And it snowed...no garage here (we got about 7" through this morning).

So no work on the ancient RV...though we did buy a replacement battery for the generator.

[overdrive75]

Well, who worked on there old Dodge's this weekend. I "sistered in 4 new rafter sections in the rear of my coach from the inside. It worked out good. Now I can move on to the panneling and molding of the ceiling job.

[Kendas]

Nice try tommyj3... Unfortunately that sticker is only the Noise Emissions sticker for a heavy duty vehicle. All it contains is the year (1978) and text that it complies with the 1972 federal noise abatement regulations, when it doesn't have to comply (only when performing maintenance) no other information.


Griff, Thanks for the info above (you posted while mine was waiting for the net so I'm not going to sweat it on the about 30 hp between the two engines).

So far I've done the fixes "mentioned" including tweaking both idle jets in by 1/2 (other than timing Griff) here and this Sunday after I get done "playing" 2nd cook for a pancake breakfast I'll be changing the oil.

Tuesday I'll see if I've gotten closer to the thing passing.


Ken

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Mileage:

1. Try advancing the timing a few degrees. (More BTDC) If your engine 'pings' under load (acceleration) with the extra advance, back off a bit on how much you've advanced it.

This helped my MPG on my '66 Dodge Polara (383), '69 Dodge M300 (318), and '77 Dodge B200 (318). Advancing the timing gives the cylinders more time to burn the fuel charge before the exhaust valves open.

This may also help pass the HC part of emissions testing. (HC = hydrocarbons = unburned fuel in the exhaust system.)

2. Change your driving style, especially accelerating from a stop. Double or triple the distance it takes you to accelerate to speed. (Try thinking like you're driving a heavily loaded 18-wheeler and ease your way up to speed.)

-1 vs. -3 engines:

The main difference between 'standard' (-1) and 'industrial' (-3) engines is the crankshaft and, possibly, the camshaft. Most 'industrial' engines have a stronger forged steel crank instead of the more standard cast steel crank. This is why race engine builders like to cannibalize motorhome engines.

The only sure way to tell if your engine is a -1 or -3 is to drop the oilpan and look at the crank. (Cast cranks have a narrow parting line and forged cranks have a wider parting line.)

The best way to tell is to look for the engine serial number stamped into a machined pad on the engine. (On a LA small block, it's on the front left just below the left cylinder head ... I can't recall the location on the B big blocks.)

Both types of engine used the same blocks so the block casting number is meaningless for telling the difference.

For most of us, discussion about -1 vs. -3 is moot. Broken crankshafts have been extremely rare among everyone except drag racers since the mid-60's and, hopefully, you're not stressing your engine to the point where 'standard' versus 'industrial' becomes an issue.

[tommyj3]

Kendas:

Look under the drivers side sun visor for a sticker that has all the information on your Dodge MH. It will tell you engine type, etc.

At least on my Dodge MH there's a sticker located in that location.

[Kendas]

Okay people, now I really have a problem. The 440-X in the chassis may NOT be a "-3". I can't get to the right side of the block to see the stamp as the #2 exhaust pipe off the manifold is in the way.

What I do find is that there is a California emissions vacuum hose routing sticker (very large) under the hood. Checked and found everything correct per this sticker but I haven't found the charcoal canister (yet). Now being that it was originally shipped to Calif. it may have just been Dodge's CYA since that is where it was assembled.

According to the old Motors manual I have available their are no "CA equipped" -3 motors. The only thing shipped for sale in Calif was the -1 equipped 220hp hypo police interceptor motor in the MB400 cutaway chassis. The plugs are the main difference and that's one of the things that may have to be changed given that -1 motor plugs "may" be hotter hence my dilemma the 2 plugs listed for the 440 are Champion OBL9Y (440-3) OJ11Y (440-1). I may have the original sale paperwork in the RV that may tell me where it was first sold, but it's late and I'm too tired to go out and look for it.

Ken

[Kendas]

That's okay... A lot of us have "rants" but if it goes on the moderator may close the thread ((based on other threads that have gone "political" here). I for one don't want that and I'm sure you and the others don't either.

Ken

[overdrive75]

Sorry for taking the emission stuff down that road, it just gets me torqued up sometimes. Speaking of torque, what can I do to help out my stock 360 with 2 barrel holley on on it. I have plenty of grunt up to 45 ~ 50 mph but not much after that I seems I fall off the torque curve of the motor. How is this thing going to do towing my cherokee. I am starting to think of selling this thing again. I have a line on an '88 27 footer on a Ford chassis for $3k. It is awfully tempting, but it doesn't have the character that this old dodge does.

[ALnCORY]

Thanks Kids,
I will go probably just go down to my local NAPA then for the parts. Finally starting to act like spring so I can get back to work on this rig. Not into working in the cold when I don't have to.