How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[79powerwagon]

I doubt your oil burning will have an affect on your test results. There are a million 90's Caravans around here with the Mitusbishi V6 that are notorious oil burners that look like a James Bond movie scene that regularly pass the same sort of test.

And, it was 1973 (for cars) when unleaded fuels started.

I can't believe you have to have a 1 ton truck tested. But since you do, go in with the fresh oil change (that morning), make sue the engine is at operating temp (drive around at least 40 minutes before the test, all in one trip, have fresh gas in the tank, and see what happens. If you fail, you'll know what you need to do (usually a tune up adjustment is all that's needed) and we can go from there.

[Tioga76]

Leeann wrote:

And seriously? Not old enough? I had the option to put leaded or unleaded in my first car...that I got when I was 20. The first year I owned the car, unleaded disappeared. Wasn't a problem for my little '81 Honda Accord, but a coworker with a 70s Ford big block was bummed.

The Tioga's three years older than I am.:) I can't remember ever seeing leaded gas at a gas station since I've been driving. Maybe it was there and I don't remember.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Tioga76 wrote:
Thanks for the advice. I'm glad to hear that I don't need a complete valve job because I don't have the $$ for that this year. I'm curious though... I've heard that using unleaded gas on these old engines can be harmful to the valves. My owners manual says to use leaded gas only, so I add a lead substitute to the gas sometimes but I'm not consistent with it. I'm not old enough to even remember leaded gas - does the use of unleaded harm the engine?:h

I think your engine is okay ... I think it was around 1975 that they started building engines to use unleaded gas. (My 1977 B200 was fine on unleaded gas ... I drove it for 8-1/2 years and 170,000+ miles.) Yes, I remember leaded gas ... and remember the introduction of unleaded gas ... I think I even used unleaded gas in my '49 Int'l Metro and '66 Dodge Polara sometimes, without using lead substitute.

Older engines (prior to early '70s) didn't have hardened valve seats and needed the lead in the gas to make the valve seats last. People who want older engines to last a long time get the heads induction hardened or replace the heads with later-model heads. (I'm replacing the heads on my '69 318-3 with late '70s heads ... already got the heads, built up by Outrageously Vintage in Maine.)

Some people just use lead substitute and some just use straight unleaded gas and replace the heads when the valves beat the seats to death.

Like I said, I'm fairly sure your engine was built for unleaded gas but you could do a little research to determine when Mopar started using hardened valve seats in their engines. (Start by calling the local dealer or search the Allpar.com website.)

[Tioga76]

Leeann wrote:

The float could be filled with gas; happens to old ones. That would make any adjustment moot.

I replaced the original carb with a rebuilt one I got from one of the major chain parts stores last summer. Supposedly it has a new float in it, but the rebuild job appears to be very poor and so I wouldn't be surprised if it was bad. I might put the old carb back on, but that one flooded too and the gas line connection was completely stripped out.:S

[Leeann]

To use unleaded gas, you have to have hardened seats. I'm not sure if the '76 had hardened seats or not....Griff?

And seriously? Not old enough? I had the option to put leaded or unleaded in my first car...that I got when I was 20. The first year I owned the car, unleaded disappeared. Wasn't a problem for my little '81 Honda Accord, but a coworker with a 70s Ford big block was bummed.

[Tioga76]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:


You don't necessarily need to do a complete valve job. (In fact, I'd recommend against it.) Instead, you should be able to simply replace the valve stem seals without removing the heads or the valves. Use compressed air to keep the valves in place and borrow, rent, or buy one of the spring compressors that work with the head still on the engine. That way, you only have to remove the valve covers and don't risk reconditioned valves causing ring blowby.

Thanks for the advice. I'm glad to hear that I don't need a complete valve job because I don't have the $$ for that this year. I'm curious though... I've heard that using unleaded gas on these old engines can be harmful to the valves. My owners manual says to use leaded gas only, so I add a lead substitute to the gas sometimes but I'm not consistent with it. I'm not old enough to even remember leaded gas - does the use of unleaded harm the engine?:h

[Leeann]

Tioga76 wrote:
Is it difficult to repair/replace the valve stem seals? I'm an okay mechanic but I haven't done much in the way of internal engine repairs.

I had the float adjusted correctly last summer and I haven't driven it much since then. Never hurts to check though.

The float could be filled with gas; happens to old ones. That would make any adjustment moot.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Leeann wrote:
Valve stem seals.

Have you checked the float level on the carb?

Yes, definitely valve stem seals. The valve stem seals in the Mopar small block engines tended to break down rather quickly, and it appears to be more a case of age rather than mileage. The seals in the 318 in my '77 B200 went out after about five years.

You don't necessarily need to do a complete valve job. (In fact, I'd recommend against it.) Instead, you should be able to simply replace the valve stem seals without removing the heads or the valves. Use compressed air to keep the valves in place and borrow, rent, or buy one of the spring compressors that work with the head still on the engine. That way, you only have to remove the valve covers and don't risk reconditioned valves causing ring blowby.

Your symptoms sound very similar to what I experienced with my B200 and all it really needed was the seal replaced. (I wish I'd know that was all it needed, instead of having a complete valve job done.)

[Tioga76]

Is it difficult to repair/replace the valve stem seals? I'm an okay mechanic but I haven't done much in the way of internal engine repairs.

I had the float adjusted correctly last summer and I haven't driven it much since then. Never hurts to check though.

[Leeann]

Valve stem seals.

Have you checked the float level on the carb?

[Tioga76]

I worked on my flooded carb this weekend but couldn't find anything wrong with it; choke is working fine and I'm pretty confident the rest of is is adjusted right so I will check the fuel pump next.

However, I am now concerned about my engine's ability to produce blue smoke. I found that if I let it idle for about 5 minutes after its warmed up and then suddenly increase the RPMs it makes a lot of blue smoke. For the smog test they do an idle test and then sudden increase to 2500 RPM and I get the smoke every time. I know I'm burning oil, but what does it sound like the problem is? Worn rings, worn valve guides, or other? It doesn't smoke driving down the road normally, only after a period of idle.

[eyeteeth]

This is an old fridge. I can't imagine there's a board, or much wiring to it. manual light and dial settings... I may have a line on a new, larger model.

[Leeann]

That shouldn't be enough to cause the goodies to separate.

Sounds more like a control board failure, then (or wiring...I'd check wiring first).

[eyeteeth]

Leeann wrote:
eye - were you parked out of level, by any chance?

Not by much. About 1/2 off by my levels r to l... front to back was 0 http://www.jcwhitney.com/HOPPY-GRADUATED-RV-LEVELS/GP_2013487_N_111+10207+600018217_10107.jcw if that's too far out for a fridge to work, then I'll resort to using coolers as I can seldom get it much closer.

[FrugalFreak]

this is my engine More Here