How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Old___Slow]

Edit to be~ '1979 Dodge Mb400 440'

The trouble I run into is this model is not listed with most parts houses. I needed a front brake job recently and the brake lines were located at Advance Auto after much dismay. Same problem to locate the wiper bushings. At Advance Auto,for the bushings, no deal. Found them only at O'Reilly Auto. Makes me crazy.

[Kendas]

Old & Slow wrote:
Dodge Sportsman wiper linkage bushings,

Old and they fall apart. Takes 4 for the system. Wiper Linkage Bushings. Part number. 'Dorman 49440'. Got them at O'Reilly Auto Parts.
All others I tried, no deal. Please be advised, not a easy installation. Glad previous post gives instructions. You can unscrew the cover, lift it and reach the arms. Need long nose pliers with a 90 and some WD40. I finally gave up and took the MH to a service tech. At 74, not to good at all jobs. But do be prepaired to replace these bushings. I love this thread. So much to be gained.

Floyd

Ordered 4 (for spares) from RockAuto.com for $16 including shipping.

Thanks Floyd!

Ken

[Leeann]

If your dash is anything like ours, it's a rats' nest of inadequate, crunchy, nasty wiring.

The bf looked at it, scratched his head, cussed & stomped around, then ripped it all out and started over 😛

[eyeteeth]

Leeann wrote:
He refreshed my memory:

We put in 2 terminal blocks, one hot and one ground. The hot one we switched with a heavy-duty toggle switch; that way, all accessories are on an easy-to-reach switch we never leave on (and therefore don't kill the battery). Then we used the battery side of the toggle switch for the clock and preset power for the stereo.

That makes sense I guess. I've tested everything I can find under there. I've found numerous "ignition" wire possibilities, but not one accessory wire.

I might just take the power lead, and run it to a toggle switch.

[goreds2]

Leeann wrote:
Dodge Sportsman is the van cutaway chassis the motorhome was built on.

Something like Tioga, Honey, Shasta, Coachman, etc. will be the coach builder.

First thing to look for is water damage. Look especially in the corners and around anything that protrudes on the roof, like the AC unit, the TV antenna - that sort of thing. If the coach hasn't been maintained, these places will show signs of the water intrusion. Then check that the appliances are present and work, including the genny. Then check that the motor and tranny work as they are supposed to.

With an older motorhome, unless they have recent receipts for things like tires, belts, hoses - anything rubber - simply assume that those things will need to be replaced as soon as you purchase the rig. And build the cost in accordingly.

Awesome information. Thanks Leeann.

If I buy it or not, I will try to a get a picture and post it.

[Leeann]

Stereo, Fluke 10-input temperature meter (so far, outside, fridge, motor & tranny temps), digital voltmeter, CB radio, 7" widescreen backup camera monitor, the wireless camera's receiver and 3-slot 12v plugin (cigarette lighter) for the Sirius or iPod, the TomTom, my laptop, fuzzbuster - anything we need to have powered in the driver's compartment.

The blocks have empty spaces, so we can hardwire more stuff as we go. We will eventually make a new dash and make everything much neater (and hide the wires)...and put the stereo where I can control it without stretching almost as far as I can go.

Correct. The toggle switch is just to the right of the ignition switch and it's easily become a habit to flip it off when we shut off the ignition (fortunately). Also fortunately, the digital voltmeter has a red display and glows at us to remind us to flip the switch.

[TreeSeeker]

Leeann,

> The hot one we switched with a heavy-duty toggle switch; that way, all accessories are on an easy-to-reach switch we never leave on...

I like this idea. Please define "all accessories." Do you mean all accessories in the drivers compartment? What other accessories do you have wired to this switch?

The one downside seems to be that since this doesn't shut off when you turn off the ignition, you have to remember to manually turn it off. Correct?

[Leeann]

Dodge Sportsman is the van cutaway chassis the motorhome was built on.

Something like Tioga, Honey, Shasta, Coachman, etc. will be the coach builder.

First thing to look for is water damage. Look especially in the corners and around anything that protrudes on the roof, like the AC unit, the TV antenna - that sort of thing. If the coach hasn't been maintained, these places will show signs of the water intrusion. Then check that the appliances are present and work, including the genny. Then check that the motor and tranny work as they are supposed to.

With an older motorhome, unless they have recent receipts for things like tires, belts, hoses - anything rubber - simply assume that those things will need to be replaced as soon as you purchase the rig. And build the cost in accordingly.

[goreds2]

Tomorrow, I am going to look at a 1976 DODGE SPORTSMAN 16FT MOTORHOME with generator, 360 engine, cold AC, good tires and awning for $2000. It sounds too good to be true but I am having fun looking at these older models.

Does anyone have knowledge of these models?

Thanks in advance.

[Leeann]

He refreshed my memory:

We put in 2 terminal blocks, one hot and one ground. The hot one we switched with a heavy-duty toggle switch; that way, all accessories are on an easy-to-reach switch we never leave on (and therefore don't kill the battery). Then we used the battery side of the toggle switch for the clock and preset power for the stereo.

[Leeann]

Umm...lemme think.

Negative to house battery. Our coach & house batteries are together, both hooked to a battery isolator in the front of the engine compartment (from the factory), both grounded to the frame. So the alternator charges both going down the road but one will not pull down the other. And, if needed, we can hook them together to start the rig in case the coach battery dies or goes too low.

The 12v constant power source (for power & presets) is hooked to something behind the dash, but I'll probably have to ask him later (he's on a roof in the rain right now).

I will take pics later, I swear 😉

[TreeSeeker]

>Negative of which battery?

Both are grounded to the frame.

>How did he deal with the constant power need of the radio to maintain time and presets?

Mine was wired by the PO to one of the fuses on the fuse block in the glovebox right next to the radio. The radio ground is fastened to a screw in the firewall.

[eyeteeth]

Negative of which battery?

I'm not sure if the house battery would ground to the frame. That the ?? running through my head is if both systems ground to the frame, or if the house battery is a isolated system. How did he deal with the constant power need of the radio to maintain time and presets?

[Leeann]

eye, the bf says:

We ran (+) to the heavy duty toggle switch (to turn off & on all accessories) and then to the junction block. Separate section directly from the battery for (-) so everything has good power.

If you wanted to be able to switch from battery to battery, a 3-position selector switch might work (coach battery - off - house battery).

[eyeteeth]

My radio puts out 50 watts per channel... so I'm fine and don't need another amp. But I do like the idea of making it switchable to the house battery too. another really good idea.