How to get an RV up a steep drive way

Grit dog wrote:

bobndot wrote:


I did the same using AirLift bags and they only raised my already sitting level 24’ C 1/2”.
It was explained to me by Two AB companies that AB’s are designed to raise a sagging vehicle back up to level .
Before you install a set of AB’s to try to solve a scrapping clearance issue , i would make a few calls. I tried the wireless onboard compressor and it was leaking from day one.

A truck spring shop can install spacers and that will raise it to what you need. The overall height of the rv as well. Its possible that you might feel crosswinds a little more.

That makes no sense. A properly installed set of 5000 or 7500lb airbags would put a serious lift on the back of the rig at full pressure. Something wasn't right.
Yes they're designed to gain back excessive sag, but they will lift it way more than 1/2" past static ride height at max pressure.
Rear axle lift blocks are an option, but they aren't going to lift the whole vehicle, just give it a rake.

Firestone says this about their air bags and I found it to be true in my applications for both my 2500 GMC and my 32ft Cambria

"While adding air can cause your vehicle to ride an inch or two higher, air springs are not designed to raise your vehicle above factory height."

bobndot wrote:


I did the same using AirLift bags and they only raised my already sitting level 24’ C 1/2”.
It was explained to me by Two AB companies that AB’s are designed to raise a sagging vehicle back up to level .
Before you install a set of AB’s to try to solve a scrapping clearance issue , i would make a few calls. I tried the wireless onboard compressor and it was leaking from day one.

A truck spring shop can install spacers and that will raise it to what you need. The overall height of the rv as well. Its possible that you might feel crosswinds a little more.

That makes no sense. A properly installed set of 5000 or 7500lb airbags would put a serious lift on the back of the rig at full pressure. Something wasn't right.
Yes they're designed to gain back excessive sag, but they will lift it way more than 1/2" past static ride height at max pressure.
Rear axle lift blocks are an option, but they aren't going to lift the whole vehicle, just give it a rake.

Ok klutchdust, I misunderstood thought it was a trailer. Forgive me.
I had a 28 ft damon that I fipped the axles on years ago to get in and out of my driveway, towed several thousand miles with no problem.
So I guess we can all miss speak about things we don't understand.

Hitting the initial rise at an angle can help... if that's possible in your situation.

happy-2 wrote:
I would take the new rv and try it before i bought it,,You mite try Air Bags. My 30 footer used to clear my driveway at 1 in .but with Airbags i now have 6 in more.i can keep the tow bar on and its off the ground at 18 in.

I did the same using AirLift bags and they only raised my already sitting level 24’ C 1/2”.
It was explained to me by Two AB companies that AB’s are designed to raise a sagging vehicle back up to level .
Before you install a set of AB’s to try to solve a scrapping clearance issue , i would make a few calls. I tried the wireless onboard compressor and it was leaking from day one. I got a full refund on parts and installation a few weeks later. Total was $1700. Wireless compressor model is expensive.

A truck spring shop can install spacers and that will raise it to what you need. The overall height of the rv as well. Its possible that you might feel crosswinds a little more.

Birdnst wrote:
You may also look to se if your axles are above or below the leaf springs,if above you could have a reputable shop move them to below witch would give the whole trailer added hieght.

Subject is about a motorhome. I see trailers that "flip" their leaf springs to gain more travel height which seems like a bad idea, stability wise.

This picture shows our situation, but it does not capture how extreme the angle is.

The guy who graded and poured our concrete driveway actually followed my instruction to start out easy and gradually increase the angle instead of having an abrupt angle. That was completed 3 years prior to buying our rig. By shear luck, we don't scrape when fully loaded including our tow vehicle attached, but it does get close.

I recently purchased these rollers but have not yet installed them. I wonder if the rollers will make contact. I will find out soon enough.

My son has similar issues and we took two 12x2x6’s and put a piece of 4x4 in the middle to smother the incline. He stores them on the side of the house but only brings the trailer home for loading an unloading before and after a trip. Permanent storage is at his brothers house as ccr’s don’t like rv’s in driveways.

You may also look to se if your axles are above or below the leaf springs,if above you could have a reputable shop move them to below witch would give the whole trailer added hieght.

You might have to put blocks at the foot of the drive and pitch them in a way so the RV rear is raised before it bottoms out, the once you are over that hurdle you can remove the blocks and back it straight up the drive. Be careful and have a spotter to help. Be careful of rolling.