I did the "Cheap Handling Fix"!

ClassAGeek wrote:
Nice analogy except it is backwards.

I don't think so, However we are both saying the same thing, just from a different point of view. Imagine the right tire on the RV move up 1". Regardless of what hole it is in the sway bar will move 1" at that hole location (assuming the sway bar links are of proper lenghth and geometry). 1" of movement at the inner hole will cause the sway bar to twist more than the outer hole. You need to account for the full range of flex of the suspention. With the suspention fully flexed there will be more preasure put on the swaybar with the inner hole. Now I say 1" flex in my example, however the suspention will flex less with the inner hole vs the outer hole with the same amount of force.

Now with the new location of the inner hole and the old length links the geometry is all messed up. The more flex in the front the less effective the swaybar is. Here is another thing I noticed on my RV. Lift your front tires completely off the ground. Is there still a angle between the swaybar and the links or do they appear to be straight. Mine are almost straight. It could be that the sway bar is now limiting the amount of flex of the front suspention (however I would hate to see that much flex while driving). With the links as straight as they are there is a possability of the swaybar reversing itself. Again, highly unlikely but possible.

I also examined my rear links, they are the same length as the front (darn as I was hoping to swap them with front). To get back close to stock setup geometry I would need to use short links for the rear and longer for the front. I looked at making my own but cost is around $50 for a pair, may as well buy them for $100.

Again, I am not saying this mod does not work nor am I telling anyone not to do it. I do believe if you are going to do the mod to consider getting different size links. I will be purchasing some here soon before I go on my big summer 3,800 mile trip.