Jacks

[Happy_Jim]

My stbalizating jack has been slow for years.Now it won't retract at all without help from a small floor jack. Camping world said I need a new jack they would check the Mfg and call me back.. Nary a word after a month and an hour labor charge $109.

Searching I see many RVers have the same jack issues. I would think a simple pump and one way cyclinder would be reliable and trouble free
But it does not appear to be. I have cleaned the piston and lubed to no avail. As you can see I am frustrated with the whole situation today. I will better tomorrow.

[dougrainer]

Happy Jim wrote:
Well i got my jack to work again. I had my wife work the joy stick up and down and sprayed the jack shaft with WD 40. After several extensions and spraying the jack now works normally.

This was a relief. Thanks for all the comments. I thought my solution may help someone else.

That's great. But, it will stick again within a month or 2. By exercising the seal you have made it slightly pliable. After it sits for awhile the problem will come back. Please repost when this happens. Doug

[Gdlow]

Happy Jim wrote:
Well i got my jack to work again. I had my wife work the joy stick up and down and sprayed the jack shaft with WD 40. After several extensions and spraying the jack now works normally.

This was a relief. Thanks for all the comments. I thought my solution may help someone else.

Might be better to spray it with a dry silicone. or the dry style of wd 40. I do it every month.:C

[Happy_Jim]

Well i got my jack to work again. I had my wife work the joy stick up and down and sprayed the jack shaft with WD 40. After several extensions and spraying the jack now works normally.

This was a relief. Thanks for all the comments. I thought my solution may help someone else.

[dougrainer]

charwan wrote:

Happy Jim wrote:
Thanks for each comment. Jacks are HWH series 210. Camping world ordered me new springs but said they were the wrong ones and felt the cyclinder is the problem. MH has only 36,00 miles and not that many cycles on the cyclinder. I gues I am comparing it to the aluminum rolling mill I worked at. We had hundreds of cylinders in the mill and they would last thousands of cycles and years. I would think
these would never wear out.

Well I will find another shop that may help.

All being said here like I said loosen the hyd line and it will tell you if its the cyl.. or not. Another point, if control solenoid is thought to be the problem just remove two and swap them and see if problem moves to other cyl. Just went thru this. Ordered solenoid from HWH. Note rubber seals in mineral oil will last a life time. I also leave my M/H sitting on the cyls thru winter. To order springs is only guessing. I have replaced one cyl. when it was under warranty and HwH sent me a new cyl and return slip for leaking cyl. They even told it was more than likely the cyl.

Well, you have NOT paid attention. He has the 200 series which has NO solenoids. He has the Joystick system. Replacing springs is NOT guessing. He has the OLD style springs and after 17 years, they will be rusted and have lost their Tensile strength. It is BEST to replace all 8 springs with the newer tapered stronger springs. NEVER swap solenoids unless you have replacement O RINGS. Almost all the time, the O rings get nicked when removing. Then they leak. Skilled Technicians would NEVER have to swap solenoids to determine if a solenoid problem. The seals are not in mineral oil---they are in Transmission fluid, and yes they do fail on HWH jacks. ALL the time. Doug

[charwan]

Happy Jim wrote:
Thanks for each comment. Jacks are HWH series 210. Camping world ordered me new springs but said they were the wrong ones and felt the cyclinder is the problem. MH has only 36,00 miles and not that many cycles on the cyclinder. I gues I am comparing it to the aluminum rolling mill I worked at. We had hundreds of cylinders in the mill and they would last thousands of cycles and years. I would think
these would never wear out.

Well I will find another shop that may help.

All being said here like I said loosen the hyd line and it will tell you if its the cyl.. or not. Another point, if control solenoid is thought to be the problem just remove two and swap them and see if problem moves to other cyl. Just went thru this. Ordered solenoid from HWH. Note rubber seals in mineral oil will last a life time. I also leave my M/H sitting on the cyls thru winter. To order springs is only guessing. I have replaced one cyl. when it was under warranty and HwH sent me a new cyl and return slip for leaking cyl. They even told it was more than likely the cyl.

[dougrainer]

barmcd wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

barmcd wrote:
I didn't see what type of jacks we're talking about so this may be off base. When one of my RVA jacks refuses to retract, its usually because one of the solenoids hasn't released the fluid. The solenoids are connected to the hydraulic jack pump and easily released by turning the T handle counter clockwise. You shouldn't fill the system with all the jacks retracted, the directions for RVA jacks says to put the front jack down about half way, then fill the reservoir.

For RVA Jacks. Doug

To properly set the fluid level for your coach, use the following procedures:

Extend any jack 6" with other jacks fully retracted
Unscrew reservoir cap from top of pump reservoir.

If the red light and bong are giving a warning

Slowly add fluid until the red light and bong turn off

If the red light and bong are NOT giving a warning

Use a suction device to slowly remove fluid until the alarm turns on

Setting the fluid level with these procedures ensures that the alarm will sound if one jack is extended 6" or any combination of jacks are extended 6". Please note: The alarm system will no longer provide an alarm and a jack could be extended 6". Ensure jacks are physically checked for full retraction prior to moving the coach. The "All Jacks Retract" switch position provides an easy way to automatically hold all the "Retract Valves" open for four minutes. Four minutes is more than enough time for all jacks to fully retract.

My manual doesn't have anything about suctioning fluid out until the alarm turns on. Is that something you added? I can see you'd do if you aren't getting an alarm with the jack down.

I ADD nothing. That is from the RVA operators/maintenance manual. Doug

[barmcd]

dougrainer wrote:

barmcd wrote:
I didn't see what type of jacks we're talking about so this may be off base. When one of my RVA jacks refuses to retract, its usually because one of the solenoids hasn't released the fluid. The solenoids are connected to the hydraulic jack pump and easily released by turning the T handle counter clockwise. You shouldn't fill the system with all the jacks retracted, the directions for RVA jacks says to put the front jack down about half way, then fill the reservoir.

For RVA Jacks. Doug

To properly set the fluid level for your coach, use the following procedures:

Extend any jack 6" with other jacks fully retracted
Unscrew reservoir cap from top of pump reservoir.

If the red light and bong are giving a warning

Slowly add fluid until the red light and bong turn off

If the red light and bong are NOT giving a warning

Use a suction device to slowly remove fluid until the alarm turns on

Setting the fluid level with these procedures ensures that the alarm will sound if one jack is extended 6" or any combination of jacks are extended 6". Please note: The alarm system will no longer provide an alarm and a jack could be extended 6". Ensure jacks are physically checked for full retraction prior to moving the coach. The "All Jacks Retract" switch position provides an easy way to automatically hold all the "Retract Valves" open for four minutes. Four minutes is more than enough time for all jacks to fully retract.

My manual doesn't have anything about suctioning fluid out until the alarm turns on. Is that something you added? I can see you'd do if you aren't getting an alarm with the jack down.

[dougrainer]

Happy Jim wrote:
Thanks for each comment. Jacks are HWH series 210. Camping world ordered me new springs but said they were the wrong ones and felt the cyclinder is the problem. MH has only 36,00 miles and not that many cycles on the cyclinder. I gues I am comparing it to the aluminum rolling mill I worked at. We had hundreds of cyclinders in the mill and they would last thousands of cycles and years. I would think
these would never wear out.

Well I will find another shop that may help.

You have an 18 year old motorhome. That obviously has not been used much and has set stored all that time. You really believe that rubber and other items will stay pliable forever? Do you have straight Jacks or KICK down jacks? HWH makes both, but most Class A's will have Straight Jacks. 210 system means you have the joystick lever system and the retract needle valves are in that Joystick control valve body. Doug

[dougrainer]

barmcd wrote:
I didn't see what type of jacks we're talking about so this may be off base. When one of my RVA jacks refuses to retract, its usually because one of the solenoids hasn't released the fluid. The solenoids are connected to the hydraulic jack pump and easily released by turning the T handle counter clockwise. You shouldn't fill the system with all the jacks retracted, the directions for RVA jacks says to put the front jack down about half way, then fill the reservoir.

For RVA Jacks. Doug

To properly set the fluid level for your coach, use the following procedures:

Extend any jack 6" with other jacks fully retracted
Unscrew reservoir cap from top of pump reservoir.

If the red light and bong are giving a warning

Slowly add fluid until the red light and bong turn off

If the red light and bong are NOT giving a warning

Use a suction device to slowly remove fluid until the alarm turns on

Setting the fluid level with these procedures ensures that the alarm will sound if one jack is extended 6" or any combination of jacks are extended 6". Please note: The alarm system will no longer provide an alarm and a jack could be extended 6". Ensure jacks are physically checked for full retraction prior to moving the coach. The "All Jacks Retract" switch position provides an easy way to automatically hold all the "Retract Valves" open for four minutes. Four minutes is more than enough time for all jacks to fully retract.

[Happy_Jim]

Thanks for each comment. Jacks are HWH series 210. Camping world ordered me new springs but said they were the wrong ones and felt the cyclinder is the problem. MH has only 36,00 miles and not that many cycles on the cyclinder. I gues I am comparing it to the aluminum rolling mill I worked at. We had hundreds of cyclinders in the mill and they would last thousands of cycles and years. I would think
these would never wear out.

Well I will find another shop that may help.

[barmcd]

I didn't see what type of jacks we're talking about so this may be off base. When one of my RVA jacks refuses to retract, its usually because one of the solenoids hasn't released the fluid. The solenoids are connected to the hydraulic jack pump and easily released by turning the T handle counter clockwise. You shouldn't fill the system with all the jacks retracted, the directions for RVA jacks says to put the front jack down about half way, then fill the reservoir.

[dougrainer]

happy-2 wrote:
FIRST OF ALL, check the fluid level in the reservoir. take off the plug and make sure its full,WHEN THE JACKS ARE RETRACTED.

Explain why this would be a factor on failure to fully retract with a jack sticking on retracting. Doug

[happy-2]

FIRST OF ALL, check the fluid level in the reservoir. take off the plug and make sure its full,WHEN THE JACKS ARE RETRACTED.

[rk911]

dougrainer wrote:

harold1946 wrote:

Happy Jim wrote:
My stbalizating jack has been slow for years.Now it won't retract at all without help from a small floor jack. Camping world said I need a new jack they would check the Mfg and call me back.. Nary a word after a month and an hour labor charge $109.

Searching I see many RVers have the same jack issues. I would think a simple pump and one way cyclinder would be reliable and trouble free
But it does not appear to be. I have cleaned the piston and lubed to no avail. As you can see I am frustrated with the whole situation today. I will better tomorrow.

It is quite possible the return springs have weakened and need replacing. The fact that it will return indicates that it is not the
valve or solenoid. Not unusual for 17 year old springs.
Good luck.

WITHOUT springs if HWH, you can easily push a Jack cylinder up when the system is in store. Now, the OP stated he has to use a floor jack to get it up. That means the INTERNAL seals have failed and the Jack cylinder either needs replaced or rebuilt. On a 17 year old RV, I would pull and have it rebuilt by either a local HYD shop or send it to HWH for rebuild. 17 year old RV, I would replace ALL 8 springs if HWH. Odds are the 8 springs have lost most of their tensile strength and are on the verge of rusting away. HR used HWH while Monaco used RVA and HWH. IF by chance he has one of the few HR's that used Powergear, you can get a rebuild kit from Powergear. Doug

that may be correct assuming the OP tried to lift the piston with something other than the floor jack first and found he needed the floor jack. we had the same problem on one jack after 8 or 9-years...it would start to retract but quit mid-way thru. I was able to use a short length of 2x4 to get it up the rest of the way. turned out that the piston had a slight defect and was replaced.