Kwikee Step Linkage Kit Install

When I replaced mine I hooked the motor up and retracted the linkage a little made it easier to put the step pin back in.

John Wayne wrote:
When I replaced mine I hooked the motor up and retracted the linkage a little made it easier to put the step pin back in.

I'll try your trick with a jumper wire. Thanks for the tip.

Fred

Yeah, BTDT! Ya gotta take the stress off the system prior to installing new parts. You haven't done that. Thats why the pin wont go in. If you have a standard tapered center punch, pound it in to the clevis hole from the opposite end where of you want to insert the pin. That will substantially align the holes/parts. From there on you won't need my/any help.

P.S.: Be prepared to buy a new gearbox. Don't ask me how I KNOW this!

Chum lee

Well Sir,
I'm assuming you're trying to do the final assembly when the steps are full extended, correct? It would be pretty hard to do it when they're retracted. Now, I don't know if they're all equipped with them or not but, at the sides of most Kwikee steps, (at least the two-step models)there is a concentric adjustment. That adjustment is what limits the step travel, along with the full travel of the motor, in the extension mode.

But, if those concentrics are holding your steps from aligning all the parts, you may be able to back off on each side and maybe align things easier. Just a guess.
Scott

An update: Maybe it will help the next person doing this repair.

My parts arrived yesterday, so this afternoon I got the repair completed. I removed the motor & arm assembly, removed the motor/gear cover, and replaced the parts that were provided in the kit. Re-installing the motor into the step assembly is moderately difficult on my Holiday Rambler as the small carriage bolts are not accessible on the top side due to the non-skid surface attached to the step. There is enough room, however, for the carriage bolt to disappear into the cavity of the countersunk bolt hole. I had to use a strong magnet attached to a thin screwdriver to get two of the carriage bolts back into position.

When it was time to install the pin, I tried prying from the other side of the hole with a center punch, but could never get enough clearance to install the pin. My next consideration was using 12 volts to bump the motor into a half way position, or adjusting or removing the concentric adjustments on both sides mentioned by FIRE UP above. Since the concentric adjustment removal was easier than rigging up a long 2 conductor wire, I removed the concentric adjustments from both sides (two 1/2 inch wrenches and it's easy). With these concentric adjustments removed, there was enough room to get the pin into place. After that, I retracted the steps, and reinstalled the concentric adjustments.

The kit was ordered from ebay, and was about $64 with tax.

Although it lasted 15 years, I have decided that I need to lube those steps more often. The manual for the steps recommends Kwik Lube (aerosol grease), so I'll be looking for that soon. For now, everything got lubed with oil to stop the noise.

Thanks to all that posted helpful tips.

The steps work great now.

Chum Lee posted "
P.S.: Be prepared to buy a new gearbox. Don't ask me how I KNOW this!"....I hope you're wrong but care to share what you know.

Fred

Here is the EASY way to replace either the motor or the linkage.
When you remove the motor/linkage, make sure the linkage is not fully extended or retracted. Operate the motor by having someone open or close the door and once the linkage starts to move, disconnect either the motor connection or (easier) the 4 way quick connect. That stops the linkage halfway. The steps should be able to go in and out with just using your fingers. IF THEY DO NOT FREELY FLOP IN AND OUT, THE STEP IS RUSTED AND THE STEP ARM LINKAGES NEED LIQUID WRENCH TO FREE THEM UP. Then it is a easy task to then get the pin into the linkage to the step pivot. You never have to loosen or remove those concentric side lock adjustment pivots. Doug

Thanks Doug. Very logical. Wish I'd thought of that yesterday. :)

Fred

fcooper wrote: "Although it lasted 15 years, I have decided that I need to lube those steps more often. The manual for the steps recommends Kwik Lube (aerosol grease), so I'll be looking for that soon. For now, everything got lubed with oil to stop the noise."

Yeah, lubing the steps often helps extend their life, no doubt about it. The gears inside the transmission assembly are made from some of the cheapest pot metal available and they do wear out. Mine literally exploded and I had to replace the entire drive assembly since individual internal parts were no longer available. If you hear grinding when the steps actuate, that's not good. Getting lube inside the drive assembly is more difficult than lubing the pivot points. If you can't easily find the official (overpriced) Kwikee lube, a product like Tri-Flow works well. It's for bicycle chains. It has P.E.T.E. in it. It's available at most quality bicycle stores. If you do end up eventually replacing the whole drive motor/transmission assembly there is also an upgrade control box kit that comes with it. I replaced everything but the steps and I'm glad I did. Working fine three years later.

Chum lee