leaky roof repair

[gshantz]

I have 1998 Fleetwood Discovery 35 ft, with a rubber roof.
2 years ago, the white coating started to peel, and had it redone professionally last year (after it had started a few leaks.) In Arizona, it doesn't rain that often and it took me a long time to discover whether the leaks were new or old. By this time, the mold was becoming a problem. A Discovery has the arched roof with "carpet" on the inside. Since the roof is installed at the factory AFTER the walls are up, there is a fair amount of unexposed ceiling/carpet sandwiched between the side wall and the ceiling.

When the roof was redone, the integrity of everything looked excellent, and I thought they did a good job. (Nearly $1,000) However, this summer we had longer than usual monsoons, and by the time it stopped raining, the weather was starting to get cooler. I took the rig back to the shop that did the refinishing, and they could not see anything wrong, so ran an extra bead of dicor caulk down both sides. (where the one piece roof meets the walls.)

There still seems to be an area near the back that is leaking, but how can you know that it isn't from trapped moisture in the wall/ceiling? I've inspected as best as I can, but can't see anything obvious.

After having spent so much already, I hate to have someone tear the roof off and start over. Can anyone make suggestions? I've even read of "pressurizing" the coach to look for air bubbles outside for a point of entry.

The aluminum trim that covers the junction/interface between the roof and the walls, is pop-riveted in place. So it may or may not be practical to remove it all, unless the roof is in fact replaced.

We're starting to go into winter weather and I have no place to keep it under cover. It might be Arizona, but we still get snow!

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
GS

[Big_Katuna]

tiffy2000 wrote:
take it to a shop that can pressurize it , they should be able to find the leaks

https://rvleaks.com/sealtech-430-r-rv-leak-tester/

I don't think it is that expensive, perhaps $200 for the test and per hr after to fix the leaks

Just make sure you get agreement on the deliverables; pictures, leaks marked with grease pencil, etc.

I thought a Sealtech test came with all that per their website.

Had it done at Camping World St. Aug and all I got was a $2000 est to reseal the roof.

All I had was one small leak.

[tiffy2000]

take it to a shop that can pressurize it , they should be able to find the leaks

https://rvleaks.com/sealtech-430-r-rv-leak-tester/

I don't think it is that expensive, perhaps $200 for the test and per hr after to fix the leaks

[ItsyRV]

Have you checked for water infiltration at the clearance lights, rear view camera housing, ladder anchors, etc? Sometimes during the monsoon you'll see water practically going sideways and it always seem to find a weak-spot where we often overlook.

[gshantz]

ItsyRV wrote:
Let see, you had the roof replaced 2 years ago and after discovering some water, they did some additional sealing but the problems still exist? All other indication was the job was done professional and they were unable to find any leaks when you returned to them?

Actually about a yr and a half ago. And what Big Katuna said is more correct. It was a peal and seal. Sorry if I made it sound like a full roof replacement.

ItsyRV wrote:
If so, exactly where are you finding the moisture? On RV's just like a home, water can enter one place but not show visible signs until it migrates to another place. Is the moisture in the bedroom area, bath, wardrobe? Along the walls, seams, corners or just the floor?

Originally, there were signs of leakage (moldy stains) in the front right, inside the cabinet, and on the left side a little in the kitchen, bath and bedroom. All on the ceiling carpet along the edge of the wall. Never any dripping, just discoloration. The moisture appeared to be coming from the outside edge. The only place I can tell any moisture now, is the bedroom.

donn0128 scares the **** out me. Even though he may be right, when I started, I didn't know it was such a serious job. The only damage had been the white sealer started to peel, and the replacement product was the recommended 2 part, 2 stage coating which the materials cost in the order of $700 by my estimates on line. Before I would/could pay $10,000, I'd take it to phoenix and let a good Mexican tradesman work at it in his spare time. I hear they do excellent work.

We've put so much $$ into other repairs to the engine and generator, I think it would be a mistake to trade it in. We enjoy the use of this rig immensely and take many weekend trips quite often. I hate to have it tied up for a long time.

Thanks for the feedback.
GS

[stew47]

trade it in?

[Big_Katuna]

ItsyRV wrote:
Let see, you had the roof replaced 2 years ago and after discovering some water, they did some additional sealing but he problems still exist? All other indication was the job was done professional and they were unable to find any leaks when you returned to them?

If so, exactly where are you finding the moisture? On RV's just like a home, water can enter one place but not show visible signs until it migrates to another place. Is the moisture in the bedroom area, bath, wardrobe? Along the walls, seams, corners or just the floor?

He implied the roof was replaced but you don’t get that done for $1000. $1000 buys you a peel and reseal.

TPO And rubber roofs last 10-20 years. A new roof is $6000 and up.

[Lwiddis]

Unfortunately for you, Don is right.

[ItsyRV]

Let see, you had the roof replaced 2 years ago and after discovering some water, they did some additional sealing but he problems still exist? All other indication was the job was done professional and they were unable to find any leaks when you returned to them?

If so, exactly where are you finding the moisture? On RV's just like a home, water can enter one place but not show visible signs until it migrates to another place. Is the moisture in the bedroom area, bath, wardrobe? Along the walls, seams, corners or just the floor?

[donn0128]

Sorry, first mistake was spending a thousand dollars for a patch job on a 20 year old roof. What ever the shop did, believe me it was simply a patch job. You should have bit the bullet last year and had a new roof installed. Lesson learned.
Now you need to strip everything right down to the studs, repair and damage, stop, remove any mold and build the roof back up. If your paying to have the work done expect to pay $10,000 or more to do it right.