looking for owners of 2004-2005 Pace Arrows

[Jim_Bakker]

I'd like to make contact with others who own one of the new (2004, 2005) Pace Arrows so we can share experiences, problems, good things, etc.

[MrMudstud]

I have an Ultraguard and installed it near the fuel tank as close to the rear wheels as possible. My spare is under the coach behind or after the Ultraguard. If I put it any place else, the UG would be in the way when I would need my spare tire. I attached the UG to the I-beam of the frame right behind the fuel tank by chains and rings. It will move or swing if it hits anything during travel. Be sure to have at least 5” of ground surface between the road and UG. You need at least 5” clearance to have room for the rear of the coach to dip when a tire is on uneven surface, especially when you are traveling on gravel roads or on park entrance. Also, the lower the UG in the rain has a tendency to fan the water on the road and make a spray which gets all over the toad from bumper to bumper.

What happens that if the UG is too low, it will drag the road surface and rake-blow-drag-spin any object up and bounce on the road and on your toad. I figure by having the UG near the rear wheels, a rock has time to bounce off the rear wheel and hit either my mud flap, UG, or both and control most if not all the debris. I don’t pull a toad yet, but am getting ready for the day. The reason DP has their mud guards on the rear near the bumper are to keep any oil or grease from the engine getting on their toad. Gas coaches don’t have or need that type of installation..........

[R2Dillon]

I don't know why a deflector on a 36B would be different than a 37C. I have an angle iron bolted to the skid plates of the hitch. The deflector is attached to the angle iron. I also have a protect-a-tow and highly recommend it.

[Lobstah]

We'll be facing this same dilema come spring, as we'll be towing our S10 on a dolly.

Jim

[PCOB]

We have a 2005 36B and have been told that there isn't a proper way to attach an Ultraguard deflector on this model. Because we are tired af having our toad covered in dirt after hauling for a day behind the motor home, I was wondering if anyone had found an appropriate solution, such as using a lighter deflector like the skirt kind.

If you have something that works on your 36B, please let us know.

[Lobstah]

I think I've grumbled about this in the past, but does anyone know of a decent owners manual for these coaches? This subject reared it's ugly head again the other day. I was walking past my coach and heard several high-pitched beeeeeps, and wondered "Ok...what NOW?" My coach is plugged in all the time, because I found out the hard way that if it isn't, the batteries completely drain, even with everything I know of turned off, and a solar panel trickle charger on the roof, including my starting battery for the coach.
I went inside, and the beep seemed to be coming from my wind alarm awning device. We had had high winds the day before, so I reached up and hit the disable switch. Awning was in, btw, not extended. While I was reaching for the switch, I discovered two switches tucked way back in the corner on the side of the cabinet, battery DISCONNECT SWITCHES. Duh.

So I have two disconnect switches, one for Main, one for Aux. Is the "Main" battery the battery that also starts the coach? Or are Main and Aux completely separate from my starter battery?

When my batteries die, every battery in the coach is dead, including the one for starting the generator, which seems VERY odd to me. At least the generator battery should be completely isolated? The only way to bring my coach back to life is to plug it in, or presumably jump start it.

A manual that covers this stuff would be really helpful.

[Rich___Cheri_]

Had a very interesting event yesterday. When I opened the side door on my 2004 PA 37C, the door almost fell off. If it wasn't for the hydraulic cylinder at the top the door would have fallen completely off. The rivets in the top and middle hinges snapped off and the hinges separated completely. The bottom hinge had 2 snapped rivets and was bent. The hydraulic cylinder was straight out keeping the door from dropping to the ground.

I believe that what happened was due to a recent snow fall followed by melting and a follow-up freeze. I had to temporarily move the coach while I had some work done on my home's roof. This resulted in the coach being tilted down on the passenger side. Snow on the roof melted causing water to stream down the side and infiltrate the gap between the door and coach wall. During the subsequent freeze the water between the hinge and jam must have expanded and stretched the rivets to the point of failure. In order for this to happen there must have been a space where the water collected. When I reattach the hinges I will use some silicone sealant to fill any potential gap and prevent recurrence.

I would recommend that other owners check their hinges and use some silicone to seal the hinge.

[wa0mqe]

offshore...

My response is a little late, but I just read your post on your curb side slide. Hopefully you'll read this.

I've had similar problems with my '04 36B on the kitchen slide. Water wasn't pouring in but after a couple of days after a heavy windy rain there was water standing on top of the slide under the slide awning. I knew better but I didn't get up there to remove the water and after awhile it seaped through and got into the underside roof paneling on the slideout. It seaped into the wood and finally started dripping onto the counter.

I too removed the wood facing. I noticed the aluminum rail and was trying to figure out how it was attached. Apparently the water seaped in where the outside top of the slideout meets or goes under the aluminum facing. The large white bulb gasket that seals the slide when it's out does it's job okay but however Fleetwood sealed the top of the slide to that aluminum facing wasn't done properly.

You mentioned removing the aluminum facing and resealing it, also re-installing. How did you remove it and re-attach it?

Doesn't it amaze you how Fleetwood attached this stuff. Like the wood facing for example. The decorative end pieces are either glued and/or attached with staples or small trim nails. On a moving motorhome, good grief.

Anyway any information you can supply would sure help.

[Dennis37]

I replaced it with the same type. Will see how long it last, probaly a lot longer as we will not need it for the next four months.

[bricot]

Dennis37 wrote:
My sure flow 5.7 lasted three months with very light use. It was replaced under warrenty.

With another one of the same or something different?

[Paul_Turpin]

Thanks for that. I was looking at it today and was thinking about getting into it tomorrow.

seatec wrote:

Paul Turpin wrote:
Has anyone remove the door entry handle assenbly?

The gasket that goes between the outside door and the door handle assembly fell apart/then tore off. I tighten the handle assembly but without that gasket the handle assembly continues to slides out of adjustment when driving down the road. I started to remove the screws but not sure what I am getting into, I put it back together.
Can I remove the door handle assembly, replace the gasket, then replace the handle assembly without parts falling inside the door?

Not to worry. i had to take the assembly out because fleetwood installed it crooked and sometimes wouldnt open. easy to re-assemble if you have normal motor skills. lol

[hottubkid]

Sorry about the slow response but I have found that if I keep the seal wet either with water or the pink stuff the seal holds. If you get it dry place some vasilene gel on the seal and then keep it wet works for me

Jim Bakker wrote:
Thanks to those who responded to my question about replacing the toilet seal. It really was very easy!

[Jim_Bakker]

Jim Bakker wrote:
subject: Kwikee steps not working

Well I got the toilet fixed, and now the steps are on the fritz.

I suspect the problem is with the gears because the motor works, but the steps do not extend or retract and I can move them freely by hand. Has anyone else has had a similar problem? What was the fix? Was it a do-it-yourself project, or is professional service advised?

The problem with my steps was that three of the four bolts attaching the gearbox to the mounting bracket had sheared off.

[seatec]

Paul Turpin wrote:
Has anyone remove the door entry handle assenbly?

The gasket that goes between the outside door and the door handle assembly fell apart/then tore off. I tighten the handle assembly but without that gasket the handle assembly continues to slides out of adjustment when driving down the road. I started to remove the screws but not sure what I am getting into, I put it back together.
Can I remove the door handle assembly, replace the gasket, then replace the handle assembly without parts falling inside the door?

Not to worry. i had to take the assembly out because fleetwood installed it crooked and sometimes wouldnt open. easy to re-assemble if you have normal motor skills. lol

[Dennis37]

My sure flow 5.7 lasted three months with very light use. It was replaced under warrenty.

[Cathy_Johansen]

Kwikee steps.

If you can go underneath and look at the steps, there is a pin that connects the steps to the mechanism. Check to see if that pin fell out or broke. If the pin is still there, then it might be the gearing. Good luck.

Mel