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N.S.A. Ready Brake

dannytas
Explorer
Explorer
I would like to give a big "thumbs up" to N.S.A Ready Brake Company and to a gentleman, Bob from Washington.

I bought a new, in box Ready Brake system on ebay,from Bob. He stopped RVing before he was able to use the product. When I received the package the invoice listed the RS-5000 break away system included. Alas, no RS-5000. I contacted Bob to inform him of the missing item. He promptly contacted N.S.A. Ready Brake Company and explained what was happening. Now, Bob bought this item 2 years ago. In my opinion, N.S.A. had no real obligation to satisfy any request after that long of a period.

Well, I just received and email this morning from Sue at N.S.A. Ready Brake Company, with an attached invoice for delivery of the RS-5000 Break away system. FREE OF CHARGE. Needless to say, I'm impressed.

So, those of you looking for a braking system for your towd, please take a look at the N.S.A Braking System. I'm not pushing to sell any of their product, but I am very appreciative by their customer service and think that you will be, too.

For those wondering about my signature...we are in the hunt for a Class A. This forum is giving us some very informative information in our search. Thanks to all...
2014 Keystone Springdale 202QBWE
1998 Dodge 1500 Club Cab, 4x4, 5.9 magnum
DW-Lynn
BigDog-Kelley
LittleDog-Kroozer
LittleCats-Pokie and Dottie
34 REPLIES 34

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
skipro3 wrote:
Personally, I think 300 pounds is WAY too much force on a brake pedal. I can press about 50 pounds and lock up my wheels. My guess is that you could use a couple cable ties and they would work fine to apply enough force, before breaking, to stop a tow vehicle that is runaway.

How many pounds of force does it take to lock up your brakes WITHOUT the vacuum booster working?
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

TriumphGuy
Explorer
Explorer
dannytas wrote:
TriumphGuy wrote:
rgatijnet1 wrote:
The unit is so good that I have a brand new in the box Ready Brake unit that I could NOT sell for 1/2 the cost, lifetime warranty and all. Nobody wanted it.


Wondering where you were a few months ago. I picked one up on ebay as well from someone.

To the OP if you need some tips on the install (i.e. learn from my mistakes) check out my blog link in my sig.


Thanks, I will check out your blog link. ..


Welcome 🙂
2011 Tiffin Allegro 35QBA (Mack); 2015 VW GTI (Lightning - toad); 2008 Acura MDX SH-AWD (Sally).
Any opinions are my own and not my employer's.
Missing the towing days: 2000 Ford F250 (Trusty Horse)
Follow us (BusyDadRVLife) on YouTube

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Works for me.


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Ski_Pro_3
Explorer
Explorer
My guess is that they break when a mistake is made with disconnecting from your tow rig, not in an actual emergency. I lost mine, for example, which is what got me looking to replace it.

Wayne, I'll pick up a pack sometime and split them with you if you think 5 will do you.

Individually, they sell for around $6 each. Dick's Sporting Goods has them. Look for size 8 ball bearing swivel.

But first I want to make sure the ring is large enough to fit the clips on the break-away.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Effy wrote:
Reddog1 wrote:
Great, I gotta get me a pack of the ball bearing swivels. They even look better than the red alum piece.


Hopefully you'll never need to replace any.
If I do, I'm hoping it is because I lost it.


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Effy
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:
Great, I gotta get me a pack of the ball bearing swivels. They even look better than the red alum piece.


Hopefully you'll never need to replace any.
2013 ACE 29.2

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Great, I gotta get me a pack of the ball bearing swivels. They even look better than the red alum piece.


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Ski_Pro_3
Explorer
Explorer
Personally, I think 300 pounds is WAY too much force on a brake pedal. I can press about 50 pounds and lock up my wheels. My guess is that you could use a couple cable ties and they would work fine to apply enough force, before breaking, to stop a tow vehicle that is runaway.

Ski_Pro_3
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:
Where did you get the 300 lb info?


From their website;

http://www.readybrake.com/store/p41/Shear_Link_for_Break_Away_Kit.html

Shear Link for the RS-5000 Break Away Kit. This part is manufactured to break after 300 pounds of pulling force is applied to allow a towed vehicle to separate and come to a stop on it's own during operation of our RS-5000 Break Away Kit.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Where did you get the 300 lb info?


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Ski_Pro_3
Explorer
Explorer
The shear on the sacrificial link is rated at 300 pounds. That means 300 pounds of pull is being applied to your towed's brakes if it gets detached from the tow vehicle. Based on that, anything that has a breaking point of 300 pounds would work.
Just checking around, there's a lot of fishing tackle rated at 300 pounds. A ball bearing swivel for example, rated at 300 pounds and costing around $3 each in a pack of 10, would do just fine;

Effy
Explorer
Explorer
paintedtugboat wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
paintedtugboat wrote:
skipro3 wrote:
I've got a gripe with Ready Brake. I have their break-away system and my link was damaged. I checked and the only place to buy one of these little pieces of what looks to be stamped aluminum sheet metal with a couple holes punched in it is through their website. No other sellers offer it. It ended up costing me $26 with shipping. I'm even in the same state as they are; California, and the shipping was still exorbitant. The little link is $18 without shipping.

I bought the break-away from Amazon for $83 shipped, so $26 for the little link is just a way the company can make huge profits. I bet the thing doesn't cost more than a few pennies to make. In fact, they ought to put a few in the kit, not just the one. Adding 3 or 4 to a kit wouldn't cost them hardly anything, but then they couldn't charge $26 each if you happen to n

With my new link, I went to the hardware store and bought some stock and fabricated my own. It's not red like the factory one, but it is the weakest link in the system and will work just as good as their high dollar replacement.

After finding out how much it cost, why didn't you make one yourself? Easy enough to do with materials from Lowes. Or you could have contacted them and asked for one.

To the OP also, think of this link, as you would a fuse protecting an electrical circuit. It's been engineered to break and severe the cable at a predetermined load. Once the toad brakes are locked up, you no longer want this cable connected to it, which could cause a dangerous situation over and above the one that's already been created.

You are right. This is essentially what this thing is. It is designed to break away from the coach after it has locked up the toad brakes. Which means the receiver hitch failed or the tow bar failed. This would be catastrophic and making things right would cost more than the $26 to replace this part.
I have heard of bad people going into fuel stops and rest stops on the highway stealing hitch pins and tow bar pins so I can see they might also take this little part. I always check the tow bar, hitch, light cable, safety chains, etc when ever we stop.


All it does is serve as the "weak link". Only has to be strong enough to set the brake and then fail in order to release the vehicle. I can think of about 100 things that could be used to couple this joint. Any of which can be found at a hardware store. This isn't rocket science. Heck a thin zip tie would do it.
2013 ACE 29.2

paintedtugboat
Explorer
Explorer
tropical36 wrote:
paintedtugboat wrote:
skipro3 wrote:
I've got a gripe with Ready Brake. I have their break-away system and my link was damaged. I checked and the only place to buy one of these little pieces of what looks to be stamped aluminum sheet metal with a couple holes punched in it is through their website. No other sellers offer it. It ended up costing me $26 with shipping. I'm even in the same state as they are; California, and the shipping was still exorbitant. The little link is $18 without shipping.

I bought the break-away from Amazon for $83 shipped, so $26 for the little link is just a way the company can make huge profits. I bet the thing doesn't cost more than a few pennies to make. In fact, they ought to put a few in the kit, not just the one. Adding 3 or 4 to a kit wouldn't cost them hardly anything, but then they couldn't charge $26 each if you happen to n

With my new link, I went to the hardware store and bought some stock and fabricated my own. It's not red like the factory one, but it is the weakest link in the system and will work just as good as their high dollar replacement.

After finding out how much it cost, why didn't you make one yourself? Easy enough to do with materials from Lowes. Or you could have contacted them and asked for one.

To the OP also, think of this link, as you would a fuse protecting an electrical circuit. It's been engineered to break and severe the cable at a predetermined load. Once the toad brakes are locked up, you no longer want this cable connected to it, which could cause a dangerous situation over and above the one that's already been created.

You are right. This is essentially what this thing is. It is designed to break away from the coach after it has locked up the toad brakes. Which means the receiver hitch failed or the tow bar failed. This would be catastrophic and making things right would cost more than the $26 to replace this part.
I have heard of bad people going into fuel stops and rest stops on the highway stealing hitch pins and tow bar pins so I can see they might also take this little part. I always check the tow bar, hitch, light cable, safety chains, etc when ever we stop.
Bob and Joan Alexander
2010 Tiffin Phaeton 36QSH (Phaeth)
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport (Hope)
Lobo & Juniper
Full-timers since 2014


http://www.phaethtofulltime.com/

dannytas
Explorer
Explorer
Parallel Lines wrote:
So, this is a newbie question. I haven't taken delivery of my class A yet. I googled this product and it seems to apply the brakes of your towed vehicle if it becomes detached from your RV. Is this something that I will need when I start towing a vehicle? Should I make rgatijnet1 an offer?


After I did my research, I came to the conclusion that this unit would serve my purpose. I got it at a good price. So I'm going with it. Check out the product on you tube and their website. Rgatijnet1 might still have it. Might be just what you are looking for. Good luck with your hunt. ..
2014 Keystone Springdale 202QBWE
1998 Dodge 1500 Club Cab, 4x4, 5.9 magnum
DW-Lynn
BigDog-Kelley
LittleDog-Kroozer
LittleCats-Pokie and Dottie