No hot water

IS this in your 1998 HR?

IF it is then you will have separate t-stats for the electric element.........located on backside of tank where electric element is.
The 120V AC power goes directly to element thru t-stats so problem could be bad connection on t-stats, bad t-stat or bad element.
Need to check for 120V power at/thru t-stats and at element.....caution!!!

(In 2004 Atwood combined the electric/propane separate t-stats into one set of t-stats and the 120V AC power to electric element is controlled by DC relay)

retiredtravelers2013 wrote:
I dug through my manuals. It is a 10 gallon Atwood combination LP/Electric model. We still have ice and freezing rain outside, so I will not attempt to troubleshoot until the weather improves. It is supposed to hit low 50's tomorrow so that will be the time.

IF you have the 1998 model RV still, ALL the 120 tstats and control and the 120 element are accessed at the rear of the Atwood water heater. ALL troubleshooting will be done on the inside. UNLESS your specific model does NOT have access to the rear of the water heater. Then the water heater will have to be pulled, but most Monaco products had inside rear access to the Atwood water heater. Doug

I dug through my manuals. It is a 10 gallon Atwood combination LP/Electric model. We still have ice and freezing rain outside, so I will not attempt to troubleshoot until the weather improves. It is supposed to hit low 50's tomorrow so that will be the time.

I recently went thru this with my Atwood water heater. On mine there is only 1thermostat which controls temp on either lp or electric. The wall switch just sends 12vdc to the control board to tell the system which to use. The control board then sends 12vdc to a relay which switches the 120 vac to the element. After a lot of checking and testing mine turned out to be the relay. Replaced it and it is working great again.

retiredtravelers2013 wrote:
Thanks to everyone.
I have not done any trouble shooting with my meter so far. Too freaking cold to open the outside door to the water heater. I will check the thermostat to make sure juice is flowing and check to see if it is in fact getting to the element. Good news is that the propane portion does seem to be working. Who ordered this 30F weather for the deep south?

thanks for the reply.sounds good.Yes Like I directed you.Check power at stat if that flows good then check at element.Most likely stat or element especially if its a suburban.done several and its been either one or the other

CampinMike wrote:
My guess is the Anode rod.

The anode rod has absolutely nothing to do with the water heater's operation on gas or electric. It is there as a sacrificial agent to keep the tank from deteriorating.

Thanks to everyone.
I have not done any trouble shooting with my meter so far. Too freaking cold to open the outside door to the water heater. I will check the thermostat to make sure juice is flowing and check to see if it is in fact getting to the element. Good news is that the propane portion does seem to be working. Who ordered this 30F weather for the deep south?

Some folks have knee jerk answers to everything....

Now to the topic.. If I am filling in the left out parts.. Your water is no longer working on electric.. But still works on Gas.

Suspect list:

Electrical supply to water heater (By the way folks Mine is NOT "Just plugged in" it is hard wired) Starting with the park pedestal.

Then we have the breakers in the RV. IF you know how measure voltage

Now we have the relay and some side stuff I'll get to in a paragraph or 3

And the heat element

And all the wires that connect..

My Favorite suspect here is the heat element.

The side stuff includes the thermostats and control board. Those are #2 and 3 on the list.

IF. and I stress IF it's the control board.. Go with Dinosaur boards.

The relay, though suspect... Is kind of down the list.

retiredtravelers2013 wrote:
We have been on our first winter trip for about 10 weeks now. We are presently in Canton,Ms.
Yesterday my wife took a nice hot shower. About an hour later I went to take one and had no hot water.
We have a 10 gallon water heater that runs on either AC or propane. We have always run it on AC to preserve propane. I checked the AC breaker and it was fine. There is a lighted switch in the bathroom signaling when the AC heater is on. That was lit.
I tried to turn on the propane heater this morning and after a false start it did come on. At least we do have hot water now.
Do any of you smart people have any ideas? Besides a burned out element?
Thanks in advance
Keld

Take a meter and see if 120V is at the thermostat and flows through to the element. If not it may have a bad thermostat.If it does and and not heating its a bad element.I have seen that many times
If no 120V present at stat then its a power supply problem

CampinMike wrote:
My guess is the Anode rod.

this is humor>? I will assume?