Norcold code L1. OP how to fix

[captpar]

Fridge fine yesterday,today flashing L1 OP and not woking,how do I fix this?

[dougrainer]

tropical36 wrote:

captpar wrote:
Fridge fine yesterday,today flashing L1 OP and not woking,how do I fix this?

You can jump out the recall box, just for seeing if that's the problem and then have an authorized service center, replace the box, that Norcold will pay for, but maybe less the labor. They won't just send you a new box, ya know....
Cutting through the chase and not liking their 800F tripping unit in the first place, I installed an ARP after market box, in it's place.
I know, the ARP states that it should be installed in conjunction with Norcold's cheapo recall fix, but that's just for liability reasons and if anything, it should be the other way around with Norcold telling you that the ARP is needed along with their fix.
Anyway, just my opinion and since then I haven't had any more trouble with ours and if tripped, it will either reset itself or you can do so, by just turning it off and back on. This magnet thing with NC, isn't their fix, but something someone has stumbled upon, along the way, with their continuing problem.
I't all about money folks and why NC didn't do it right in the first place, then took the cheapest way out, when forced to recall.

The Magnet reset IS a Norcold fix. Norcold advised Service centers to do the Magnet reset. IF the Recall box was installed via a recall, you have a lifetime warranty on the Box, but you must pay diag and labor to replace. Consumers will not be allowed to do the work themselves. IF you have a new Norcold 1200/1210 that comes with the Recall box installed by Norcold, THAT box is only warrantied for the 2 years of Norcolds refer warranty. Last, The Norcold recall boxes are not being installed correctly by some service centers. They are installed with the LED and wire leads point straight down, NOT facing the outside of the refer. If pointed straight down, that lessens the likelihood of water intrusion causing a false trip. Doug

[tropical36]

captpar wrote:
Fridge fine yesterday,today flashing L1 OP and not woking,how do I fix this?

You can jump out the recall box, just for seeing if that's the problem and then have an authorized service center, replace the box, that Norcold will pay for, but maybe less the labor. They won't just send you a new box, ya know....
Cutting through the chase and not liking their 800F tripping unit in the first place, I installed an ARP after market box, in it's place.
I know, the ARP states that it should be installed in conjunction with Norcold's cheapo recall fix, but that's just for liability reasons and if anything, it should be the other way around with Norcold telling you that the ARP is needed along with their fix.
Anyway, just my opinion and since then I haven't had any more trouble with ours and if tripped, it will either reset itself or you can do so, by just turning it off and back on. This magnet thing with NC, isn't their fix, but something someone has stumbled upon, along the way, with their continuing problem.
I't all about money folks and why NC didn't do it right in the first place, then took the cheapest way out, when forced to recall.

[big_jim_2]

Make sure you leave the magnet on the box for minute or two as sometimes it takes that long to reset. Mine has tripped several times after heavy rains and wind.

[dsnuggles]

After reading all these post, I’m gonna try the magnet to reset mine tomorrow morning. I’ve checked mine for steel and yellow stains and nothing. So I’m gonna give this a try. Thank you

[vegasfoodguy]

B's Bunch wrote:
Chunk it to the curb or replace it with a new coil that may or may not last. We went thru this and finally just got rid of the NOCOLD and went all electric. Most of our trouble was with the dealer doing it wrong. Loose fitting coil and no cooling. Had enough of that!!! I believe that a lot of recalls had to do with the incorrect install jmop Larry

Every time, someone asks a question about Norcold, Some people always jump in and say "Chuck it".

It could be that rain or washing it caused the problem. Those of us that dry camp prefer the propane option.

Terry

[dougrainer]

MajorJeff wrote:

tinkerer wrote:

mpierce wrote:
Use a strong magnet. I have learned that if I am getting the rv washed, shut off the fridge, and stuff something in the outside door. Water gets in there, and can trip it. I have had it happen twice after washing. I now stuff a towel in there, and also ask the washer to NOT spray high pressure right on the vents. No problem since.

So correct,this happened to us and the magnet worked to reset it and haven't had a problem since. Another friend of mine had the same problem and I coached him over the phone and he got his reset. The magnet seemed to work just left of the little red light. But I was told before you reset it to look for any yellow residue a sign that you have a leak which caused the overheating. Mine was just from a power washer.:)

I had the L1 oP error code on my Norcold 2118S. I took it to the dealer, with luck the Norcord Sales rep was on site. He called the factory and instructed the dealer mechanic to use a magnet and reset my unit. So it works!

WHY would a Norcold Sales rep NOT know the procedure? In 37 years as a Dealer tech, I have NEVER seen a so called Norcold Sales rep. WHY would any dealer have a Norcold sales rep make a call on them? A GOOD Service dept would NOT have to call anybody about the Magnet reset procedure. It should already have been known by the Techs and the Service dept. If NOT, I would NOT use that dealer for my RV service. They do not have adequately trained Technicians. Doug

[MajorJeff]

tinkerer wrote:

mpierce wrote:
Use a strong magnet. I have learned that if I am getting the rv washed, shut off the fridge, and stuff something in the outside door. Water gets in there, and can trip it. I have had it happen twice after washing. I now stuff a towel in there, and also ask the washer to NOT spray high pressure right on the vents. No problem since.

So correct,this happened to us and the magnet worked to reset it and haven't had a problem since. Another friend of mine had the same problem and I coached him over the phone and he got his reset. The magnet seemed to work just left of the little red light. But I was told before you reset it to look for any yellow residue a sign that you have a leak which caused the overheating. Mine was just from a power washer.:)

I had the L1 oP error code on my Norcold 2118S. I took it to the dealer, with luck the Norcord Sales rep was on site. He called the factory and instructed the dealer mechanic to use a magnet and reset my unit. So it works!

[dougrainer]

usersmanual wrote:

I know this question is a couple of years old but our fridge started showing that error code after we were in a nasty, blowing storm up on the Oregon coast. I just have a couple of questions. 1. Should the refrigerator be unplugged from power when you reset the switch and 2. How strong of a magnet? Thanks!

Water should have nothing to do with it.there pretty well sealed
I have done a few resets - its takes a fairly strong magnet
If it does not start to cool normally right away it may have a cooling unit problem so pay attention

Well, I have taken a few apart and found corrosion on the board. So, YES, water intrusion is a likely cause. IF you research this forum, you will see that a lot of the posted failures all have one thing in common---After power washing or a heavy rain they had the failure. Also, there are 2 places the recall box is installed. The recall kit if part of the recall was clipped on the coil. OEM units built after the recall are mounted on the wall of the refer. If not clipped in the correct place, the water may get into it. Doug

[usersmanual]

I know this question is a couple of years old but our fridge started showing that error code after we were in a nasty, blowing storm up on the Oregon coast. I just have a couple of questions. 1. Should the refrigerator be unplugged from power when you reset the switch and 2. How strong of a magnet? Thanks!

Water should have nothing to do with it.there pretty well sealed
(on the ones I have looked at) maybe there are some that are not correctly sealed or placed in a area where water wont get at them.
I have done a few resets - its takes a fairly strong magnet
If it does not start to cool normally right away it may have a cooling unit problem so pay attention

[usersmanual]

dougrainer wrote:

botts12 wrote:
Go to the back of the fridge. Open the panel and you will see a red light on a black box. Place a magnet under the red light and it will go off and the fridge will come back on. This is what the mechanic did to ours. There is a problem with the recall box. We did this and never had another problem in a year.

Not all recall boxes will respond to the magnet. MY point is, the box tripped for a reason. Resetting is risky without knowing why it tripped. Doug

many many respond to the magnet and most trip for no reason and worked fine before and after the magnet reset so no the box does not always trip for a (good) reason

[Ivylog]

Welcome, a new member that can use the search box... may be a first.:B
Is the red light lit on the little black box outside? What year unit? On older units when the red light is on you will get nothing on the display as the black box cuts all of the power to the control board.
Leave the power on and the stronger the better.
Sounds like the failure prone black box band aide got wet... doubt it will reset. I'd bypass the large wire going into it to where the large wire out of it connects to the control board. Do this ONLY if there is no ammonia smell or yellow powder around the boiler/flue in the back.

[rv-jeeprat]

tinkerer wrote:

mpierce wrote:
Use a strong magnet. I have learned that if I am getting the rv washed, shut off the fridge, and stuff something in the outside door. Water gets in there, and can trip it. I have had it happen twice after washing. I now stuff a towel in there, and also ask the washer to NOT spray high pressure right on the vents. No problem since.

So correct,this happened to us and the magnet worked to reset it and haven't had a problem since. Another friend of mine had the same problem and I coached him over the phone and he got his reset. The magnet seemed to work just left of the little red light. But I was told before you reset it to look for any yellow residue a sign that you have a leak which caused the overheating. Mine was just from a power washer.:)

I know this question is a couple of years old but our fridge started showing that error code after we were in a nasty, blowing storm up on the Oregon coast. I just have a couple of questions. 1. Should the refrigerator be unplugged from power when you reset the switch and 2. How strong of a magnet? Thanks!

[tinkerer]

mpierce wrote:
Use a strong magnet. I have learned that if I am getting the rv washed, shut off the fridge, and stuff something in the outside door. Water gets in there, and can trip it. I have had it happen twice after washing. I now stuff a towel in there, and also ask the washer to NOT spray high pressure right on the vents. No problem since.

So correct,this happened to us and the magnet worked to reset it and haven't had a problem since. Another friend of mine had the same problem and I coached him over the phone and he got his reset. The magnet seemed to work just left of the little red light. But I was told before you reset it to look for any yellow residue a sign that you have a leak which caused the overheating. Mine was just from a power washer.:)

[mpierce]

Use a strong magnet. I have learned that if I am getting the rv washed, shut off the fridge, and stuff something in the outside door. Water gets in there, and can trip it. I have had it happen twice after washing. I now stuff a towel in there, and also ask the washer to NOT spray high pressure right on the vents. No problem since.