Norcold Safety Question

Running your frig while the unit is inclined can cause it to malfunction. There are set limits for front to back and side to side inclines. check your manual I think it is somewhere in the range of 3* one way and 6* the other. these limits apply only while the unit is sitting still for a period of time.

The recall should address the main safety concerns.

As I understand it, the problems had to deal with the metal fatiguing and cracking in the cooling unit due to excessive heating and cooling around the electric element (and possibly poor manufacture/materials). If a crack developed and the fridge was running on propane, the ammonia refrigerant under the wrong circumstances could be ignited and cause a bad fire. The recall fix prevents this by containing any fire and shutting off the propane if the temperature gets excessively high in the burner area.

The fridge should be reasonably level while running when not en route to ensure proper coolant circulation by gravity. (While driving, the movement of the vehicle helps keep things moving.) Generally speaking, if things are reasonably level for human use--if the shower drains properly and the cabinet doors don't all want to swing to the same angle and eggs stay in the middle of the frypan--then the fridge is more than sufficiently leveled.

Two things I have done for peace of mind:

First, to save the rest of the rig in case of a fire, a couple of years ago I put this extinguisher (the SS30 CAG under engine compartment) in the back of the refrigerator. Got mine from Mac The Fire Guy

Second, last year I installed an ARPrv system to prevent to problem before it occurs. Relatively easy installation if you are handy and works seamlessly.

I have personal knowledge of three Norcolds on electric that caught on fire so it's not just on propane. Two of them had the Norcold recall on them. The 1200s have the same size coils as a 6 ft.³ Norcold so it is working harder and fatiguing sooner.
Each time you' run too far out of level you build up a metal deposit inside the coils which will eventually create a blockage. You need to install the ARP shut down device which will shutdown the refrigerator before it creates these metal deposits.
In the last 5 years I've spent over $1800 on my POS 1200 Norcol. I'm in the process of going residential.

DrewE wrote:
The recall should address the main safety concerns.

As I understand it, the problems had to deal with the metal fatiguing and cracking in the cooling unit due to excessive heating and cooling around the electric element (and possibly poor manufacture/materials). If a crack developed and the fridge was running on propane, the ammonia refrigerant under the wrong circumstances could be ignited and cause a bad fire. The recall fix prevents this by containing any fire and shutting off the propane if the temperature gets excessively high in the burner area.

The fridge should be reasonably level while running when not en route to ensure proper coolant circulation by gravity. (While driving, the movement of the vehicle helps keep things moving.) Generally speaking, if things are reasonably level for human use--if the shower drains properly and the cabinet doors don't all want to swing to the same angle and eggs stay in the middle of the frypan--then the fridge is more than sufficiently leveled.

Well covered......

Couple of points.
Recall Box is a high-high temp sensor. Shuts down all 12V DC power which turns fridge OFF (no control circuit) whether on electric or propane

OFF level........fastest way to KILL an absorption fridge. Due to no compressor they rely on gravity for ammonia solution to flow back down to absorption tank (bottom of fridge). IF off-level overheating can occur which causes the anti-rust inhibitor to crystallize, plate out of tubing, cause blockage..more overheating ......damage is accumulative and permanent.

Just 20 mins of off-level operation can cause this issue.

Dennis M M wrote:

.... I installed an ARPrv system to prevent to problem before it occurs. Relatively easy installation if you are handy and works seamlessly.

+1 on the ARP (temperature sensing, power interrupter). It also gives visual indications of temperature readings of the boiler system so you know if the fridge is operating properly.

I installed one myself a few months ago & like it....iirc - if the boiler gets above 420* (f) (default), the ARP will terminate power to the fridge, until the boiler cools down - then it will try to turn it on again (if it over heats it'll kill the power again & eventually permanently).

The best place for a Not-So-Cold is in the dump. When they go up in flames you will not know it because most of them are sealed with Silicone sealant on the inside of the coach. Here you can see all the Heavy rust and corrosion that was unseen until removal of the old Not-So-Cold. Wife loves the RR frig plus it keeps my beer at 38degs.
http://www.moenracing.com/samsung/
JR

JR45, nice write up of your install (Clicky)

Would say this sums up the problem with a 1200.