Please don't give up on me...still need help!

[goufgators]

I've posted before regarding steering (wandering) problems on my '04 class A, Ford chassis. I've received good advice and have begun to take action on some of the comments. But, the problem continues! I'll try to summarize below what I've done and ask questions about future action to take:

1. The front end has been aligned by a reputable local dealer. No improvement.
2. Steer Safe add-on installed. No improvement other than more secure feeling in case of blow out.
3. New shocks installed...(this could be a problem)! Added new Monroe shocks...now believe should have changed to Bilsteins...your thoughts?
4. Important point (I think), I had new Goodyear 245/70R/19.5 (H) tires installed a little less than a year ago. Previously, the MH had that size tire but "F" tires. The steering problem became considerably worse with these new "H" tires. Could that different type tire make that much difference in handling?
5. Another important point: The coach was weighed (front and rear). Don't have access to four corner weighing. Based on the weights, the Goodyear chart suggests 80 psi. At that psi, the coach steers beautifully. No wandering! But, as you know, psi increases as you drive due to the tires heating up. When the psi reached about 90 (and it often gets close to 100)...I have a TPM system... then the wandering takes over and with it...white knuckle driving. If I could keep the psi at about 80 I'd not have a problem...but, alas, that's not going to be possible.

There are other 'add-ons' available on the market but need your thoughts about: 1. Davis Tru-trac; 2. Safe-t-plus; rear stabilizer bar. Should I have either or all ? of the above installed?

I don't mind the cost to continue add-ons if it will resolve the problem. Regardless, I've got to have relief or the MH that we otherwise like very much will have to go! I cannot continue the white knuckle, totally unsafe driving conditions.

Many thanks for your continued advice and counsel!

Larry

[4ever16]

Take this for what it is worth,,,have a 2007 Class A Workhorse chassis, similar problem, installed air bags on rear, took care of problem plus behaves much better when tractor trailer passes..
Good luck...

[dsurette]

I'm surprised that no one has suggested the CHF, Cheap Handling Fix. Driving my 2013 Coachmen Encounter was a white knuckle experience before having it done. It made a great improvement.
It is talked about quite a bit on another forum. Just do a Google search for Cheap Handling Fix.

[Goldencrazy]

With your leaf springs the best thing you may learn for ride is weight. Water in tanks and driving on the top half of fuel will improve the ride. The difference from my 30T to the 38Q with same engine and basic chassis is amazing. Weight really seems to help with ride and to my surprise I doesn't make much difference in acceleration or pulling up grades.

[jyrostng]

not true, lol, nitrogen gas by definition has nothing else in it. easy to get air almost as dry? how old is the desiccant, when was it changed last, you would have no idea and no way to test the compressed airs dew point. just assume all compressed air is wet.

[wolfe10]

Sam Spade wrote:

jyrostng wrote:
nitrogen is a dry gas, air is not,

Not true.

The bottled and compressed nitrogen is "dry" because all the water vapor is removed along with the other unwanted gasses.

It is actually fairly easy to get air that is almost as "dry".

Yes, with very rare exception, DP's with engine driven air compressors also have AIR DRYERS as OE equipment.

So, the air IS dry.

Agree, "wet" air (air compressor with no dryer) is NOT the same.

[Sam_Spade]

jyrostng wrote:
nitrogen is a dry gas, air is not,

Not true.

The bottled and compressed nitrogen is "dry" because all the water vapor is removed along with the other unwanted gasses.

It is actually fairly easy to get air that is almost as "dry".

[jyrostng]

nitrogen is a dry gas, air is not, it contains humidity and water in air expands greatly when heated raising the pressure in tires. a simple thing to try is letting the air out of the fronts and replacing it with nitrogen. I use it in drag racing in the rear slicks to keep the tire pressure more consistent after the burnouts.

[frankdamp]

Larry:

We had an '02 32-footer on the F53 chassis. On the way home from collecting it from the private owner from whom we'd bought it, I was really concerned about the "wandering".

Our post-delivery check-out revealed that the tires (Goodyears) dated back to the chassis manufacture date and were 9 years old. My first expenditure was at Les Schwab for a set of 6 Toyos. They did an alignment also and the shop manager mentioned having done slightly more caster than the box-truck specs. He owned an F-53 MH. It drove well ever after, no obvious wandering, no drama.

Just remember that it drives like a box truck because it IS one. A Rolls-Royce grade of ride comfort is not achievable.

[wolfe10]

By far the single best add on to that chassis is a rear track bar/panhard rod.

[Goldencrazy]

Many good ideas. Keep the inflation lower on the tires. So they wear a little, better than sitting in the driveway. A rear trac bar like Tiger trac from Blue Ox will mean a lot. I always install them immediately on new coaches. I am not fond of steer safe. Prefer Roadmaster Reflex.

[427435]

Before I spent money on different tires, I would have another shop align the MH. Make sure they can and will give you a printout when they are done that shows the caster at 4-1/2 degrees or a little more. That made a huge difference in the handling of my F53.

The alignment shop may push back on adjusting the caster as it's more work for them over what they normally do for a "priced" alignment.

[Sam_Spade]

rockhillmanor wrote:

Yup I thought buying the most expensive tires for my MH was a good thing and simply just was not.

"Better" is often a relative thing.

In this case, "upgrading" TWO load ranges might be the root cause of the problem.......ESPECIALLY if the pressure he has come up with is based on the new tire rating.

Going up ONE load range rating might give you a tiny bit more margin but doing that does NOT also mean that you need to up the pressure.

At this point, I think he should go back the pressure he was using with the old tires to see if the problem won't disappear......and then check the tires to see if they aren't still running comfortably warm.

[rockhillmanor]

1. On mine it was the tow bar on my toad. One arm would move ever so slightly in and out which caused the front end of the MH to 'APPEAR' to have front end problems wandering all over the place.

Visually the bar arm looked locked in, lever was in lock position, but when you rolled down the road it was coming in and out. You stop and check and it was locked in. And so it went.

That one took weeks to convince blueox it WAS the towbar. For the record they finally took a look at it and it WAS indeed faulty and gave me a new one.

2. The other time it was when I put new Michelin's on my MH. Front end started wandering all over. Again every one wanted to point to add ons, shocks, front end, etc etc....:R

It took talking to one semi truck driver for one minute to find out why my MH wandering.

He calmly walked over to my MH took two fingers and grabbed the outer rib on the new tires and wiggled it back and forth. I WAS amazed how much play that rib had. He said THERE is your problem.

The tires were too aggressive of a tire and that outer rib flex's back and forth giving you tire roll on any heavy truck chassis. Henceforth why semi's have a slick outer rib.

Yup I thought buying the most expensive tires for my MH was a good thing and simply just was not.

[WyoTraveler]

Ever ride a motorcycle? Bike riders rake the front forks so it will steer better. Once they rake the front forks you can ride down the highway without even touching the handle bars. On a vehicle with 4 wheels it is called caster. Basically a frontward angle of slope of the front wheels. I suppose if you could could give it enough caster there may be increased wear as you turn a corner. I doubt you would even notice the increased wear with a 4 wheel vehicle. Probably you would notice it on on a bike with an extreme rake, called caster. When I spoke to the RV people that install front end products they all said RVs need more caster than factory specs. Most alignment places set vehicles up to factory specs. MHs need more.
I suppose weight on each wheel has some effect. Being a practical person, I don't weigh each wheel of my MH every time before I drive it out of my driveway. If you know you have more weight on one side or in the rear you could compensate. I guess by the feel of the MH. I suppose if I tried to tell my DW where we had to store everything or had a 4 wheel scale installed in my driveway I'd probably be in divorse court not RVing down the highway. :B JMHO