Hello,I have a 1987 Winnebago ElanDan 32 Foot with the original power converter.In th emanual it says that it is a 3 stage charger with voltages of 14.4 13.8 and 13.2I get all the voltages throught the time the batteries are charging. And it stays at 13.2 in float mode.My problem is that I get 16 volts to the lighting circuts.Is that normal to have different output for the lighting and the charge circut?It wouldn't be a problem except I added a TV, tapped off the light circut, and it's input range is 12-15 volts. Don't want to damage the TV with high voltage.I really don't want to replace my converter especialy since it seams to work well.

That is a very interesting problem. I never checked voltage at my lights. I can tell you that my DC television plug is it's own line direct from the battery. It does not go through the converter. My lights are considerably brighter when on converter. Perhaps a direct line from the batteries is in order?

WSLM, I think you need to check your meter or your converter. Without knowing the manufacturer/model of the converter, the only thing anybody can do is GUESS..... Some converter chargers used to grab the house circuit and supply it separately while it was charging the house bank. If this is the case with yours, you have a problem. Are the interior lights real Bright?? If no, check your meter.Check your car battery when it has been sitting a while. That should be real close to 12.6VUnplug at least the converter and let things sit for a while. That should be real close to 12.6V - too. If the converter is really putting 16V to the house bank, it will kill it by over heating it and drying out the cells.Matt

I have no way of telling what converter I have so......My meter is working perfectely, as I get the expected voltages to my batteries. "I get all the voltages throught the time the batteries are charging. And it stays at 13.2 in float mode."It is not sending 16 volts to the batteries, only to the house circut, so there is no chance of huring my batteries, as it sitsLights get brighter when gen. is running due to getting 16 volts from the converter.

Replace the battery in the voltmeter.

smkettner wrote:Replace the battery in the voltmeter.smkettner your too quick and beat me to the keyboard.I had the same poblem and it was a poor 9V battry that ran the meterTo the OP I suggest you check your Batterys with the same meter and see if the reading is the same at batterys as the outlet.Also check your outlet with the Charger off and then with it on to see how much voltage difference

Power Converter | Good Sam Community

wslm_boarder
Explorer
Oct 12, 2013
Thanks everybody, I got the Progressive Dynamics PD6245 with pendant shipped to my door for $126.
nodine
Explorer
Oct 12, 2013
Sounds like the converter has a failing filter capacitor and the output is low ripple when the battery is taking current but as the battery builds up and quits acting like a giant capacitor the output voltage of the converter goes to a high ripple state. In other words, there is an AC component riding on top of the DC level. If you do not have a TrueRMS voltmeter this ripple will cause false readings. I think you are on the right track by replacing the converter.

Bob
time2roll
Nomad
Oct 12, 2013
Both are great. Powermax has a three year warranty.

Consider a Progressive Dynamics 4645 designed as a 6345 replacement including a new fuse board.

http://www.bestconverter.com/4600-series-Upgrade-Kits_c_133.html
wslm_boarder
Explorer
Oct 12, 2013
Is a power max PM3-45 a good replacement?

I also like the Progressive Dynamics PD9245c only because of the charge wizard.
wslm_boarder
Explorer
Oct 12, 2013
what is the voltage at the batterys with SP on?

What is a "SP"?

120V connected, it is 13.2 at batteries when they are full.

The model is 6345. Got that from the door but it looks just like this one. http://www.parallaxpower.com/6300/6300Qinternal.pdf

But mine has a fan.

How am I seeing the stage charging out of this unit?
wslm_boarder
Explorer
Oct 11, 2013
I will get the model if I knew where to look.

Everything says it's on the door but if it has been replaced that info is not accurate.
prism
Explorer
Oct 11, 2013
smkettner wrote:
Until we have a make and model number it is all guess work.
Ultimately if the converter is at 16 volts it will probably get replaced.
May as well haul it out for a bench test.

why do u need that? if this is being explained correctly the unit is shot and just simply replace it
time2roll
Nomad
Oct 11, 2013
Until we have a make and model number it is all guess work.
Ultimately if the converter is at 16 volts it will probably get replaced.
May as well haul it out for a bench test.
prism
Explorer
Oct 11, 2013
smkettner wrote:
With two outputs I assume it is something like an old Magnetek 6300.
But these were fixed voltage not 14.4, 13.8, 13.2v.

These had a voltage adjustment available but you may need to take the lid off.

parallax schematics found here

BUT ? hes saying proper voltage charging the batterys yet improper voltage readings at outlets?
time2roll
Nomad
Oct 11, 2013
With two outputs I assume it is something like an old Magnetek 6300.
But these were fixed voltage not 14.4, 13.8, 13.2v.

These had a voltage adjustment available but you may need to take the lid off.

parallax schematics found here

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