Propane Level Indication?

[BFL13]

This 1991 MH has one of those sideways propane tanks. Never had one before.

The levels monitor on the range hood is like the one we had in the 5er, but has an additional tank light for the propane level. It says it is full. Is there any other indicator? I know if it is working and the tank really is full eventually it will show a lower level, but right now, how can it be confirmed?

I can go to a propane tank filling station and find out if it will hold any more propane, but is there any other way I can do myself to learn how much is in the tank?

Thanks.

[Dakzuki]

I discovered that the range of the sending unit on mine could be matched with an analog fuel gauge. One VDO fuel gauge purchased on eBay and my science project works. When "full" at 80% the gauge reads FULL and goes down from there. I haven't gone all the way to empty but I'm pretty sure than end of the scale is correct from how far I've drawn down the tank.

[Farmboy666]

ron.dittmer wrote:
The generic dial gauge on our propane tank reads 3/4 full right after a fill-up. The indicator panel inside the RV doesn't agree with it, and it is even less accurate.

Here is our control panel shown for discussion-clarity. The picture was taken just before I added additional controls seen here on the right side to better monitor the batteries.

It reads 3/4 after a fill because they only fill to 80% to leave room for expansion so it is accurate.

[gkainz]

pour a cup of hot water down the front of the tank from the top. Wait a few seconds and run your hand down the side and you'll definitely feel the temperature difference at the propane level.

[BFL13]

Good tip -using the infrared gun. Must try that.

[Harvey51]

After a cool night has the liquid propane cool, it will keep the portion of the tank that it touches cool while the untouched upper portion warms up. An infrared temperature gun or stick on thermometer with color indicator strip will easily find the level which is the boundary between filled and unfilled on the side of the tank.

[gkainz]

DrewE wrote:
The on the tank gauge is analog; the scale could be printed in quarters or tenths or gallons or pounds or mols or whatever other units they wanted. I think mine is listed in percent and has bigger marks for the quarter tank points, but I don't recall specifically.

I have no idea why the monitor panel "standard" is thirds (with four lights, one of which is unconditionally lit and hence superfluous). Maybe it's been determined to be the cheapest and least precise option that still appears to be somewhat useful to potential purchasers.

That's my suspicion. 2 sensors give you approximate "thirds" of (some) tank status. More sensors cost a few more pennies per coach and the green eyeshade boys live by pinching pennies.

[DrewE]

The on the tank gauge is analog; the scale could be printed in quarters or tenths or gallons or pounds or mols or whatever other units they wanted. I think mine is listed in percent and has bigger marks for the quarter tank points, but I don't recall specifically.

I have no idea why the monitor panel "standard" is thirds (with four lights, one of which is unconditionally lit and hence superfluous). Maybe it's been determined to be the cheapest and least precise option that still appears to be somewhat useful to potential purchasers.

[BFL13]

bukhrn wrote:
"At least on my Coachmen motorhome, the gauge on the tank is pretty accessible, being next to the fill port and shut-off valve and so forth behind a door on the motorhome skirting."

This is the same as my Forester, no access problem to the tank gage, visible as soon as you open the compartment door.
The thing that confuses me on mine is, the inside panel with the LP & all the other levels, is in thirds, the on tank gage is in quarters. :h

Ours is in metric thirds for "up here", which is even worse.

[Dusty_R]

I never liked the thirds. On my last 2 mh's I installed a SeeLevel system.They show in %. So much better and not all that hard to install.

Dusty

[bukhrn]

"At least on my Coachmen motorhome, the gauge on the tank is pretty accessible, being next to the fill port and shut-off valve and so forth behind a door on the motorhome skirting."

This is the same as my Forester, no access problem to the tank gage, visible as soon as you open the compartment door.
The thing that confuses me on mine is, the inside panel with the LP & all the other levels, is in thirds, the on tank gage is in quarters. :h

[BFL13]

Thanks! I gotta get one of those. They say no shipping to Canada, but that can be got around 🙂

[turbojimmy]

BFL13 wrote:
Great info!

BTW if that big tank ever did get too low, is there a way to go tank to tank from a standard 20 lb BBQ tank into the big tank and keep things running that way? Some kind of adapter hose?

I got one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sturgi-StayStandard-Propane-Adapter-Campers-Motorhomes/dp/B00CR1WF8A/ref=sr_1...

I didn't even bother filling up the big tank this season. I only went out on 2 trips and I had an extra 20 lb. cylinder here. There's a fitting on it that allows you to hook up your portable propane appliances, too (grills, lanterns, etc). They can be fed by the 20 lb. cylinder or the on-board tank with that fitting.

And as others have said, most tanks have an analog gauge on them. I find my interior panel is accurate down to about half-a-tank and then it fluctuates all over the place.

[ron_dittmer]

ksg5000 wrote:
When my two were out of wack it took the RV guy about 2 seconds to get them in alignment - think he used a magnet

That is very interesting. I will have to do a little internet research on that one. Maybe I can calibrate it myself. I have extremely strong magnets that I took out of old computer hard drives.

[BFL13]

noteven wrote:
BFL13 - you need to install a connection downstream from your chassis tank shutoff valve that allows you to connect a cylinder to your system. You are supplying the vehicle system from the cylinder not trying to transfer fuel to the large tank from the cylinder.

I will check that out. Might be able to include a quick connect in any such mod so the RVQ that worked with the 5er could be used with the MH.

I suspect I am trying to re-invent the wheel on all that, and you longer time in Class C guys have BTDT

EDIT--I will go through the Class C FAQ soon.