Propane tank serviciability

After the above treatment, spray it with an aerosol can of truck bed liner. That, being tough & flexible will resist the abrasion from road grit.

If you want Rust Converter in an aerosol, see www.winzer.com look up part #891.1750, Rust Kon 20oz aerosol.... excellent product.... again, only remove loose, flaky rust... The black finish you end up with is a Phosphate conversion of the rust, turned to an excellent primer....

pugslyyy wrote:
You can definitely paint it to improve the appearance but I doubt you have anything to worry about - those tanks are built to be ignored.

X-2

I guess shiny would be overstated. It was in the condition that course sand blasting would leave it in. On the frame the Por15 stayed in place, but the rust penetrated through the pours in the paint. POR15 claim is that it seals out moister, which stops the rust from continuing to grow. My observation is that it did not seal out as claimed, as the rust came back through the paint. The paint is all still there, but the rust has bubbled back through the paint from underneath.

Rusted and pitted is not necessary a problem. Clean it, and remove all LOOSE rust then check it and try to determine how pitted it is. Slighht pitting a coat of Naval Jelly followed by a few coats of Acme Rust Control paint (Ok I confess, used tow work for Acme quality paints division of Sherman Williams...40 years ago) to help keep it from rusting further.

If the pitting is serious. have a pro look at it.

You might wish to haul (Drive) the rig over to a propane wholesaler who does this kind of thing and have them take a look at it after the initial cleaning (Before you toss money at it) there are several things that can "De-certify" a tank, But fact is I think you will be told Paint it and keep an eye on it from time to time.

Just remember: When they were finishing up the certification class for propane pump jockeys and reviewing the test.. The question was "What happens if you mix propane and air in the right proportion and there is a spark or open flame".. My answer: You land two counties over, Was approved of by the instructor (After the laughter died that is).

Curt and Marie wrote:
What is the name of the NAPA product?

That was quite a while ago, I don't remember. It may not have been a NAPA product, although I did purchase it at the NAPA store.
All I remember is that it was Rust Converter, and the rust turned black when it was sprayed on.

Curt and Marie wrote:
Thanks Navy! I have never used it but I understand POR15 is the best rust converter available Army X 25 years

We did the POR15 thing to the propane tank on our 2001 Adventurer. I rolled a hydraulic table under it and removed it in about 10 minutes. It took several hours to scrape and sand off the rust. Then I gave it 2 coats of POR 15. After it dried I put a couple cover coats of industrial gray over it. It looked as good as the day it came from the factory when I was finished.

I am a fan of POR15, big time. I used a lot of it, and their topcoats on my Camaro, and I've had zero problems, even when I didn't follow the directions on prep perfectly. The restoration on my car was completed in 2005, started in 1999, so some of this is quite old now.

Por 15 doesn't like smooth bare shiny metal, nor does it like old paint (actually it doesn't mind old paint, except if the old paint flakes off, the new por15 will come off with it). For most of the prep I used 3m paint remover disks in a die grinder. Kinda like a rock hard scotch brite pad that spins...
Strips the paint of instantly without affecting the metal much.

Sandblasting is a while 'nother level of prep. Use a good etching primer followed by a primer surface, then shoot the color.

What is the name of the NAPA product?

The only "rust converter" I have used I bought at the local NAPA store. the directions were very explicit; clean the loose rust, but NOT down to bare shiny metal. When it was sprayed on the remaining rust, it turned the rust black. When it dried, I primed and painted with Rust-Oleum spray paint. Several years later, there was no rust.
For bare metal, apparently a Rust Converter should not be used, just a good primer, such as a zinc chromate primer.
For a fuel tank, I would (and have used) use a good sloshing compound that coats the tank with a neoprene-like substance. It seals small leaks, and coats all the junk in the tank to keep it out of fuel lines. It worked for me.