Recaulking a cab over window

[ghsebldr]

I've spent over an hour now trying to find out what others have used when re caulking a cab over window. Every time I find a thread I think will take me there I start reading all of the other interesting ideas and end up several pages into that thread.
I'm not sure whether the leak that has developed is from the top of the window or the marker lights above the window but the caulk over the window doesn't look factory to me so I thought I would start there.
Some threads say don't use silicone then others say that's what they use. I'm open to suggestions. Thanks

[DaHose]

Great post, path1.

A couple of step ladders and a pair of extra hands makes removing windows pretty easy. I would scrape and clean the filon and frame with acetone so its fresh and shiny. 🙂 Then order some butyl tape and put it on double thick. Re-install the window and set it snug. Trim excess tape and check in a couple of days. The tape will settle and you can tighten the screws down a little more. If that doesn't seal it, your actual window in the frame might be the issue (like path1).

Jose

[path1]

I'm not sure whether the leak that has developed is from the top of the window or the marker lights above the window but the caulk over the window doesn't look factory to me so I thought I would start there

That was the problem I had also. Where is the source of leak??? I removed some paneling in cab over to see if leak was from lights. Not from lights. So I pulled the window and put new putty tape around window frame. Still leaked. Pulled window again and put upside down in tub of water. (If water can get in water can get out)Found leak was a factory job that finally gave way after many years. Butyl tape was not overlapped enough right from factory. Fixxed with "tackey tape" maybe size of nickel was whole problem. Re-stalled window. And no more problems, well sort of. The paneling wood pulled down I need to match up is $92.00 a sheet and has to be shipped from somewhere near Sacramento CA, so shipping will be even more. So after looking at a messed up paneling for 6 months now I'm going to take apiece of cheap paneling from lowes or Home Depot and make a strip the size I need and put commercial vinyl wall paper over it, to look like a fancy trim job. And I'm going to make the panel strip so I can remove it and will be able to inspect for leaks in future. My basic way of doing window is here. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27133279.cfm
In my quest of finding a dealer that could find the problem I had I found out that several rv dealers "outsource" their window work to http://www.dkboosglass.com/ Near you.
One thing I did leave out of the list I made is. If your going to pull the frame ring,(to get to window)get a magic marker and make a small "X" or someway with maybe a piece of tape to tell which way is inside left or right on frame ring. Just a indicator mark to help you when you're re-installing. Hope this helps, send me PM if I missed anything or could be of help.

[ghsebldr]

Jeez, the ink wasn't even dry on my post mockt, thanks for the quick reply. I really never even thought about taking It to my local rv repair place. Thanks that solves my problem of getting up that high while straddling the windshield wipers.

[mockturtle]

I had mine taken out and the seal replaced with an 'industrial strength' variety. Just caulking around the window didn't work. My cabover window is especially horizontal. They don't even make Born Frees with a front cabover window any more.