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RV Windows

Johnpi21
Explorer
Explorer
Does anyone know if there is a company that fixes or replaces motorhome windows in Ontario, Canada. I live in the Hamilton area. My motorhome is a class A whose windows are starting to get moisture between the panes. Thank you for your help.
8 REPLIES 8

IB853347201
Nomad
Nomad
Not sure what type of motorhome you have or what year but if you are looking for the windows to be replaced, Owasco RV in Oshawa can do the job properly for you. I say properly as many general (non Motorhome) glass repair shops will not have the experience to remove the window and frames properly without damaging the surrounding fiberglass walls.
2010 Suncruiser

wildmanbaker
Explorer
Explorer
The spacer should have a dryer built into it to absorb any moisture the may be between the panes, or may find its way in. Use windshield adhesive/sealer to seal the panes. This used in the automotive industry to glue/seal the windshield to the body, to become a structural part of the body. This urethane is what you want to use to seal the windows, and it has a 6 month shelf life. The date is printed on the bottom of the tube. Using Silicone would be a big mistake, as it will not hold up long, and it cannot be removed readily. This advice is worth what you have paid for it, but learn from others that have done this sort of repairs before, and had failures using other types sealers.
Wildmanbaker

GREGORYJ
Explorer
Explorer
If you where to repair fogged windows yourself, you would need these items:

This spacer is used for RV windows that has 3/16" space between them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UVUUU5Y

This is the sealer used :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JFKTUQ

This is the guide needed to help spread the sealer:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QL4MQ74

The Dicor Butyl tape to seal window frames when re-installing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FCB4JS
Ellen & Greg
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gbopp wrote:
BobsYourUncle wrote:

They should be silicone sealed, not polysulphide.

I have done this myself a few times over the years, but I have a friend who has a glass line with a polysulphude machine so that helps.

Polysulphide is that black goo they seal glass units with.

So, silicone or polysulphide to seal the windows?


In the window industry, polysulphide is the basic, commonly used method for making sealed units. It works fine for most stationary applications. Stationary meaning residential applications where there is no movement and no UV exposure of the outside edge of the unit. You will typically get 20 or more years before failure. But a huge amount of this depends on the guy on the end of the application gun. If he is sloppy and leaves little voids or pinholes, then it will not last as long.

Glass units are sealed while laying horizontally, stacked in a pile on top of each other on a special table with rubber spacer blocks holding each unit apart.

In horizontal applications such as a solarium roof, or in a moving vehicle application, it is recommended to silicone seal the units due to extra stress on the glass.

An RV is subject to a lot of bumping, twisting and different angles of the sun hitting the glass, so a better seal is needed.

Polysulphide in professional usage is applied, in simple terms, as a resin and catalyst or hardener via a gun that mixes the two together to be applied to fill the void from the spacer bar to the 2 pieces of glass. Its chemical composition is a flexible rubbery seal once it sets up. But it must not be exposed to constant movement or UV as it will fail prematurely.

Silicone sealing the glass units is not to be confused with the stuff you squirt out of a tube to trim your bathtub or ruin the outside of an RV with!

In glazing terms, silicone sealing is superior to the poly.

The glass sealed unit glazing silicone is applied in the same manner as the polysulphide, but its chemical composition is different. It is silicone based and offers a much higher tolerance to movement and to UV exposure. It costs more because it is more complex to do.

Hope this makes sense without getting too technical!
I learned all this stuff when I worked at a solarium manufacturing plant that had a glass line. It fascinated me so I made sure to learn how it all worked.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
BobsYourUncle wrote:

They should be silicone sealed, not polysulphide.

I have done this myself a few times over the years, but I have a friend who has a glass line with a polysulphude machine so that helps.

Polysulphide is that black goo they seal glass units with.

So, silicone or polysulphide to seal the windows?

TechWriter
Explorer
Explorer
I did a DIY using a window from Hehr.
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Glass is likely tempered.
If its not too bad and the glass is not etched from the moisture, the units can ge cut apart, glass cleaned, new spacer bar put in and resealed.
They should be silicone sealed, not polysulphide.

I have done this myself a few times over the years, but I have a friend who has a glass line with a polysulphude machine so that helps.

Polysulphide is that black goo they seal glass units with.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

rk911
Explorer
Explorer
this guy has locations in canada
clicky

try a google search
rv fgged window repair canada
Rich
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