Shortest Class C Recommendations

Try Winnebago, Aspect, model 23A. Also, look on Cruise America website, know they are rentals, but they also have sales. They have a floorplan, another model 23 which might give you an idea of brand to look for. To purchase, mileage is very high. I would search rvtrader and put in Class C...also check PPL motor homes in TX for ideas.

Check out the Winnebago View. At least there are 4 floor plans. Navion is basicly the same thing.

Any class C with a over-the-cab bunk provides that much more living space and more roof-top space for solar panels, but heed my post below when shopping for any motor home.

We own a 2007 Phoenix Cruiser (PC) model 2350, a B+ style (no cab-over bed) which is 23'-8" end-to-end, only 93" wide, and under 10' to the tippy-top of the a/c unit. I consider our PC HERE ideal for a single person living in full-time in the under 24' range. It has a large outdoor storage compartment, good size holding tanks, 41 gallons of fresh water, two batteries & whole-house inverter to support daily power needs, a good size propane tank, a generator, and room on top for solar panels as long as you change the old style crank-up roof-top antenna with a small current-day type. I feel it is as small as you can get yet still have everything except a normal oven. It comes with a micro/convection oven combo. We resort to a portable grille for other oven-cooking requirements. Ours has a comfortable reclining captain's chair. It's not a couch but is much more comfortable than most RV couches.

PC model 2350 has a very tiny bedroom with the thermostat located above the bed which is great when it's cold outside and you need to run the furnace overnight when boondocking. You close the curtain and much heat is retained where needed most so you don't run through your propane and batteries overnight nearly as much as most other motor homes. PCs are well insulated too, ours has the optional thermal pane windows as well which further helps.

To get two batteries and whole-house inverter in a PC, you need to be looking at a 2007 or newer. Phoenix USA might have introduced them mid-year in 2006 so there might be some 2006's with two batteries. If the PC has one battery, it isn't friendly to add a second one, so look for a PC with two batteries to begin with. They are in a battery compartment with a slide-out tray, located outside, below the floor-line. In model 2350, it is just to the left of the entry door.

Below is my advise on shopping tips.
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New, used, or well used, when shopping for a conventional class B+ or C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and also the punishment of the road.

Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.

When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy" or "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home.

#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.5 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes have a limited selection of sizes.

#2 SECOND BEST
Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for.

a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a series of extended continuous earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lesser stressed areas.

b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is a more recent example, one of many I have read. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.

There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Born Free offers a seamless bucket design as seen in This Model. The Itasca Navion Here is another fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. Some manufacture models like the Minnie Winnie and the Nexus Phantom utilize a compromising partial bucket design, making it a better choice compared to a fully seamed cab-over bed.

If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful.

c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.

d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.

e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap
A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow rectangular cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work.

Don't be fooled. There are a select few manufactures who add rear wall sectional styling pieces over an entry level rear corner seam design which gives the appearance of a 5-sided pan design. You can easily tell by noting the sections & seams between them and the flat back wall that remains exposed.

Bigger Will Be Weaker
The size & floor plan you select MUST FIRST meet your needs before this consideration.
The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the exact same corrugated material. The smaller box would naturally be stronger. It will be more resistant to bending, twisting, and other types of flexing. So if you are on the fence between models, the smaller one will be your stronger choice.

Potentially Troublesome Construction
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.

There are also the rare exception of the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best

About The Chassis
The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. Also within this past year is the recent introduction of the Ford Transit. The GM chassis is not popular, but is a very good choice for the right application. Any of these chassis made since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter & Transit will be least powered. People who tow with them naturally take it slower.

If considering a current-day “small” class B+ or C motor home, here is a comparison between the two current main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.

Advantages Of The Mercedes Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Offers a 35%-50% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
- A grander view out the windshield
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.

Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.

You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.

There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years on the Sprinter and most recently on the new Ford Transit.

The Ford Transit Chassis
This chassis has the potential to dominate the class B+ & C motor home market in the smaller sizes. According to Ford's website, the Transit DRW chassis is offered in the 156", and 178" wheel base, and is rated as high as 10,360 GVWR. Ford offers a motor home package specific for the RV industry. It's diesel engine compares to the Sprinter in power and fuel economy, but is more affordable and is easily serviced at Ford service centers, just like the E350/E450. The cab has a much lower stance than the Sprinter making it much more friendly to get into and out from for people in their later years. It's more like a mini-van rather than a standard van. The Transit's lower cab also offers roomier over-head bunks that are easier to access.

The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away Chassis
This front wheel drive chassis is another recent entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range in a B+ or C. This chassis does seem ideal for the straight "B" motor home market.

The Chevy 3500/4500 Chassis
Unfortunately this chassis is not more popular, primarily because GM sort-of gave up on competing with the Ford E350/E450. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches in storing your rig, the Chevy is a little longer than the Ford by a number of inches which was critical for us with our garage as seen HERE with our Ford 2007 E350 rig. That could be the reason why the Chevy has a little more interior driver/passenger leg room.

Engine Power Ratings of Ford, MB-Sprinter, Chevy, and Dodge
Ford E350/E450 - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft
Ford Transit Diesel - 3.2L-I5, 185hp, 350ft
Mercedes Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft
Chevy 3500/4500 - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft
Dodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds)

Depending on your anticipated solar system and electric use you may not need a generator with an adequate battery bank. Last two trips my Westinghouse was never needed...just weekly exercise. Also depends on where you are or camp. Your profile doesn't say.

Wow! TY for your informative reply. It's quite timely as well, because I just found this on my local Craig's List:

https://wausau.craigslist.org/rvs/6091279067.html

2005 PhoeniX

Unfortunately, it's pretty expensive for *me* but seems to be priced right per NADA. A convection oven would work for me, and I really like the layout. With the amt. of down payment I have, even if I got it at the low retail price, my payment over 5 yrs would be around $450/mo. Maybe that would be worth it to have a (hopefully) trouble free rig?? I emailed the owner to see if it's even still available and will go from there. Thanks again for all the great information! :)

I would not get too hung up on mileage unless you plan to be driving it every day. In almost all cases, the chassis on a class C is not what wears out; the E series chassis is quite capable of going a few hundred thousand miles without major problems if given proper maintenance.

IMHO NADA is at best only a very rough guide for motorhome prices. There's not much data on any given model to provide a very firm valuation statistically, and very much of the value depends on aspects of condition that are hard to quantify directly (in the way that things like mileage and equipment can be quantified). There are also not insignificant regional and seasonal variations in used RV prices.

I'm personally unconvinced that a 24' motorhome is very much easier to park than a 32' one. In either case, you're generally too long to fit entirely in a single parking space comfortably, so you need two end-to-end (A standard parking space length, to the extent that there is a standard, is somewhere around 18 or 20 feet.) With the shorter length in particular there is the possibility of having the rear overhang grass or something behind a parking space, if you can find one that is unobstructed behind it, but at least around here that's more the exception than the rule.

wanderlust1966 wrote:
Wow! TY for your informative reply. It's quite timely as well, because I just found this on my local Craig's List:

https://wausau.craigslist.org/rvs/6091279067.html

2005 PhoeniX

Unfortunately, it's pretty expensive for *me* but seems to be priced right per NADA. A convection oven would work for me, and I really like the layout. With the amt. of down payment I have, even if I got it at the low retail price, my payment over 5 yrs would be around $450/mo. Maybe that would be worth it to have a (hopefully) trouble free rig?? I emailed the owner to see if it's even still available and will go from there. Thanks again for all the great information! :)

That 2005 will have only one battery and no whole-house inverter. The earlier single battery compartment is located just above the left rear tires, rear of the slide-out. With the slide-out, that PC has the couch instead of dinette. Our 2007 has no slideout so it has room for a dinette of which we appreciate a lot. That barrel chair is the same as the one ours came with. It is extremely uncomfortable. I easily replaced it with a 3rd matching (identical to the front seats) captain seat which is great to kick back and relax in. I use the adjacent dinette bench as my ottoman.

Also keep in mind that if you are considering a car/vehicle loan, nobody will loan any amount of money on a vehicle so old. I don't know what the cut-off age is but it's not so many years. It would have to be some other kind of loan like from a 401K plan or a home equity loan.

$36,000 for a 2005 C? New stripped Cs can be found for 51-52k.

The newer class "C"s are getting bigger and bigger. It used to be that you could find a 20-21 foot corner queen model, but that is getting tougher as time goes on.

For the size you are looking at, I'd take a look at the Winnebago Trend series. One has a slide-out. They are small, but might be what you need.

Kathryn (the OP),

I recommend looking for a used one of these in the 24V (24 ft) model, even if you have to go to another state to pick one up: https://winnebagoind.com/resources/brochure/2006/06-Outlook-bro.pdf

This model features such things as:

- One piece fiberglass roof with the entire length of both sides edges rolled over for long term roof joint leak protection
- 38 cu. ft. of exterior storage, including two long storage areas running across the coach under the floor for long items such as beach umbrellas, shovels, fishing gear, etc.
- 43 gal. of fresh water capacity
- 29 gal. of grey water capacity
- 39 gal. of black water capacity
- 18 gal. of propane capacity
- 55 gal. main engine fuel tank, for a cruizing range of around 500 miles
- a full size spare tire on a rim with a nice place to store it out of view
- a chassis that can be serviced "anywhere in the U.S." (Ford)
- weather band radio in the cab
- emergency switch in the cab to connect the coach battery(ies) to the engine battery or the engine battery to the coach battery(ies)
- switch in the cab to power the cab radio from either the engine battery or the coach battery(ies)
- remotely controlled and heated cab mirrors
- built-in generator that is installed properly so it's not very loud inside or outside to comfortably run for hours when air conditioning is needed
- propane oven instead of a convection oven so you can bake a pizza (or other stuff) without hookups or running the generator
- room for two large batteries in their intended storage cabinet without sacrificing one of other storage areas in order to add a 2nd battery
- a widebody design so a slide is not needed for a roomy feeling inside, thus eliminating slide problems over time
- good ground clearance to help prevent any scraping of the coach outer walls or undercarriage, including coach outer walls that immediately start sloping upwards starting right at the rear fender well to help prevent scraping when entering/leaving parking lots or crossing road washouts
- large storage areas at both the head and foot of the cabover bed due to the widebody design
- tall outside storage cabinets due to this being a Class C with a "basement" design
- a large engine alternator and good engine/coach charging circuit design so that the coach batteries charge up well and fast when on the road between camping sites
- several distributed and adjustable ducts for the propane furnace
- several distributed and adjustable ducts for the air conditioner, the air conditioner fan has two speeds
- the furnace and air conditioner are controlled with an automatic digital control
- there is a built-in floor light for night trips to the toilet or for use as a nightlight
- a full standup shower and the freshwater capacity to actually be able to take good showers without needing to be on hookups or feel that you must use only campground showers
- heated black and grey tanks for cold weather camping (an option that may not be on a used unit)
- dual batteries instead of only one battery (an option that may not be on a used unit, but a 2nd battery can be easily added)
- outside shower for pets and/or humans
- built-in provision for winterizing during storage in cold conditions
- outside entertainment center for music or TV/movie watching on warm evenings
- detachable outside platform that doubles as a TV table or small BBQ table
- built-in surround speakers for the cab radio and DVD player
- interior sleeping beds for six(6) adults, 4 spots are permanent and 2 spots have to be quickly set up for each use
- all exterior sewer and electrical equipment resides in enclosed cabinets up high so there is nothing to get hung up on rocks, logs, gas station islands, etc.
- plenty of galley counter space due to a built-in fold out counter extension plus a cover for one-half of the double sink
- three burner stove instead of the more common setup of only a two burner stove
- built-in water filter for the galley sinks
- hardwood cabinets with solid doors
- steel drawer slides
- vinyl flooring in the galley area and carpeting in the dining and loung areas
- huge storage under each dinette seat because the room is not taken up by a water heater, propane furnace, etc.

There are more points I could list .... but the above provides an idea what they came stock with. Winnebago abandoned this length with this floorplan and set of features on the rugged E-Series Ford chassis in 2006. However, you must consider at least a 2005 in order to get the better computer controlled 5-speed TorqShift Ford transmission with it's outstanding Tow/Haul mode for maximum safety and minimum brake wear when driving in the mountains.

We have a 2005 version (24V Itasca model - still built by Winnebago) of the above that we bought new and (still) love it. It's small for easy driving and camping in the small, older car/tent campsites found in County, State, and Federal public lands ... yet it has all of the comforts of home for use in campgrounds with hookups or for use in campsites out in the middle of nowhere. We take ours carefully off-pavement and can get to and camp many places where Class B motorhomes and truck campers can - but with more room and comforts when we get there. i.e. We can wash and dry the dog using the exterior shower and built-in generator way out there in the boonies. :)