Forum Discussion
OhhWell
May 05, 2014Explorer
TucsonAZ wrote:
Thank you all for the wonderful insights and help, it's really great and helps me from getting discouraged!
I looked at a 32ft 1992 Itasca today, seemed to be in very good condition, Ford 460, 89k on it. They're wanting $9,000 but I'm guessing $8,000 would get it done. I'm thinking I can do better but they did pay for the towing setup on it and it's in excellent condition so those are plusses.
What would be the advantages to a class c over a class a? The class c units (I used to have a Tioga which I sold because of the mildew) seem to have leaking issues more often, lower quality construction and from what I've seen are less of a value due to their compromises being suited to weekenders instead of long term living which gives them a larger market and a lower overall value. I may be missing some of their upsides however and would love to hear where they do better.
@Thunder Mountain, that's why I'm looking for something about 15 years old, I did check out a 1980 Revcon but that had more issues than my budget could overcome. Early 90s seems to be well balanced with style, modern features, value, wear and things like that and after 20 years they've as outgassed as they're going to get. Older would be better but comes with other issues, maybe an older restore of an old unit would work well.
Any tips on what to avoid, I know delaminating should be avoided but otherwise I'm not overly informed on some of the more subtle things. I do plan to slowly go to solar and not run the gen or the propane fridge.
You could offer $6K cash in hand for that 93 and see what happens.
There aren't really any advantages that I can think of for a Class C other than the price.
Yes, Delamination would be one of the largest and easily uncovered defects. I wouldn't buy one with delamination.
I don't know what your disability completely entails but even before going into the coach, you should get on the roof. At this age, there is no factory Lap sealant that will still be good. Look for new sealant on top of old along the seams or even completely new sealant. Carefully feel for soft spots, especially near any sealant.
That will help to identify any current leaks. Then you need to look for and evaluate the damage from any prior leaks. It is exceptionally rare to find an RV in this age range that hasn't had a single leak. When you go in the coach, look at the entire ceiling obviously but also open all of the cabinets and feel along the areas where the walls meet the roof. Then the same everywhere the walls meet the floor that you can get to.
Look for any signs of fluid leakage under the coach. On the fords, there is a drum assembly for the parking brake that is attached right behind the transmission. This is somewhat notorious for leaking. CHECK THE AGE OF THE TIRES. That is one thing that you would HAVE to replace for safety if they are too old and it is a painful bill even with the smaller wheels in the early 90s.
It is very useful if you can to bring someone along who can be impartial. As hard as I try, I cannot overcome some emotional attachment when I am looking to buy one of these things. I start thinking about how the family will use it and start overlooking defects. That's why I suggested getting up on the roof before even going inside the coach.
If you look enough, you may be able to find a 30'er or so with the V10 within your budget.
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