Small used Class C--good idea or false economy?

[mkl654321]

I am currently shopping for a small (21-23) ft Class C to use as a fulltiming rig. (I live and work alone, and my job is online.) However, I've set a tight budget for myself--$10,000 maximum purchase price. This actually reflects my $15,000 budget for the RV itself plus a) the $2,000 worth of stuff that will need to be fixed immediately but that the seller doesn't tell me about b) a tow dolly (used) c) a solar panel and deep cycle battery setup.

The question I have is, can I find something for that price that isn't a complete about-to-disintegrate rattletrap? RVs in general are horribly built, and fulltiming puts demands on the equipment that were never intended by the manufacturer, so I don't want to dump ten grand into something that will die an inglorious death two months later, a smoking heap towed to the nearest junkyard.

Or should I forget it until I have more like thirty grand (whenever that might be!) to buy something that won't fly to pieces like the Blues Brothers' car? If it is possible to find something decent for that price, what are the particular pitfalls? (I know about things like water damage, the engine wheezing like a consumptive opera heroine, the owner being an unreconstructed hippie, etc.)

[jaycocreek]

Well,the op has owned a 23 ft Class C in the past for almost a year so he already knows what he should be looking for.He did not mention here that he intended to tow his Mazda car with his $10K choice..My advice on that is..Make sure it has a transmission cooler...

This is part of another post in another section by the op.

1. A 21-23 foot Class C or Class A. No towed vehicle (I think the smaller RVs would be total slugs and get about 0.7 mpg when towing anything heavier than a helium balloon).
2. A larger C or A, possibly with a towed vehicle. Not ridiculous combined length, hopefully.
3. A really small Class C, like a Toyota (cheap), or a Class B (expensive, to me, ridiculously so for what you get)
4. A pickup truck like a Ford Mastodon or a Chevy Manhood, happily towing a fifth wheel until the day when a 60 mph crosswind hits and I die in a tangle of wreckage by the side of the interstate.
5. Smaller towing vehicle, like a RAV4, and a teardrop-style minimalist trailer (not nearly as cheap as I think they ought to be).

My budget is about 30K to spend, and I make about 4K a month. My existence tax (medical and other insurance, baksheesh to the gummint) is about 1K a month, so I could afford some version of all of the above options. I just can't decide on which is best.

The only thing I will say about a small Class C and power to pull is just common sense..A 460/454 will have more power in a 21ft than anything larger and heavier and 9 MPG is 9MPG,not really that bad for towing except for diesels maybe.

I'm done with this one.

[CharlesinGA]

Not sure exactly where the OP is located, his location does not come up on Google Maps, but if I were in his shoes, I'd be all over the RV on the link Jaycocreek posted, like a fly on honey. The pics and description make this one sound like a real well kept RV. I'm not fond of single digit gas mileage, that is why I bought the Winne View I did, but with gas so cheap and the 460 being such a reliable engine, much more so than the later V10's and 5.4's and some of the later gas engines, it is one that should be looked at. Its late enough to be all electronic (ODBI) but very reliable Ford systems. Add a trans cooler if it doesn't have one, a deep pan (transmissions are the weak link in most RV's I suspect due to the full time gross weight operations), add a decent multistage converter (Progressive Dynamics), get a car that can be flat towed (you don't want to be fooling with a dolly) and you are all set.

Charles

[toedtoes]

jaycocreek wrote:
I'm not sure why everyone is trying to talk him out of it rather than help him do what he wants to do which is very do-able..I have done it a ton of times.You can get a pretty good class C for $10K if you look,I have twice..

Showering will use up the most of your water. If you stay at RV parks, you can use the park's facilities to shower, do laundry, etc. If you stay in boondocking locations, you will have fewer options.

For the price of an RV park you can haul alot of water or re-fill often.They are spendy...As for solar and close to $10K..Not for me..A quiet gen that is known for 10-20,000 hours of operation is by far a better thing for some peoples needs...

This person wants to buy a Class C in the $10K range and live full time in it working..Does anyone realize how many people do just that?Some do mobile home parks, because there so much cheaper than a RV park, especially in January and others boondock year around.

He also wants a small Class C..Nothing at all wrong with that either..Mine is 21 feet..We each have our own needs for our own reasons..I still have a 30ft trailer and there are so many places I cannot take it is why I wanted smaller but then again,it's the area we all live in and how we use our motorhomes.Some for work,others for play..

I personally have all the extra's needed to stay out for months at a time but I need my ATV trailer to haul it,which I do..I can go quite a while with just a hitch haul for extra propane/water/whatever..

What he wants to do is very do-able in his price range limited only by choosing the right drive chain that has been taken care of properly..These engines and transmissions are 200K+ mile capable with proper maintenance.The inside appliances could go out at any time,5 years old or 20 years old depending on there care and maintenance.

Buying a used RV is a **** shoot regardless of age.

I am NOT trying to talk him out of it. I do think in his situation, he can make it happen, but I also believe in doing the proper research ahead of time to reduce/eliminate surprises later on.

In regards to my showering comment, that was in direct response to the OP's statement that he won't have to dump every week. A small class C is not going to have huge dump tanks - using the RV shower WILL fill up the dump tank much quicker and could result in having to dump every week, regardless of where he's parked.

As for choice of power (solar, generator, etc.), there are a lot of things to calculate into that choice, including his work needs (does he just need a laptop, or does he need more electronics that require power all at once), where he'll be parking (lots of sun, limits on generator use, etc.), how much storage space can be dedicated to batteries, etc.

[jaycocreek]

I'm not sure why everyone is trying to talk him out of it rather than help him do what he wants to do which is very do-able..I have done it a ton of times.You can get a pretty good class C for $10K if you look,I have twice..

Showering will use up the most of your water. If you stay at RV parks, you can use the park's facilities to shower, do laundry, etc. If you stay in boondocking locations, you will have fewer options.

For the price of an RV park you can haul alot of water or re-fill often.They are spendy...As for solar and close to $10K..Not for me..A quiet gen that is known for 10-20,000 hours of operation is by far a better thing for some peoples needs...

This person wants to buy a Class C in the $10K range and live full time in it working..Does anyone realize how many people do just that?Some do mobile home parks, because there so much cheaper than a RV park, especially in January and others boondock year around.

He also wants a small Class C..Nothing at all wrong with that either..Mine is 21 feet..We each have our own needs for our own reasons..I still have a 30ft trailer and there are so many places I cannot take it is why I wanted smaller but then again,it's the area we all live in and how we use our motorhomes.Some for work,others for play..

I personally have all the extra's needed to stay out for months at a time but I need my ATV trailer to haul it,which I do..I can go quite a while with just a hitch haul for extra propane/water/whatever..

What he wants to do is very do-able in his price range limited only by choosing the right drive chain that has been taken care of properly..These engines and transmissions are 200K+ mile capable with proper maintenance.The inside appliances could go out at any time,5 years old or 20 years old depending on there care and maintenance.

Buying a used RV is a **** shoot regardless of age.

[toedtoes]

mkl654321 wrote:
One person can stay in an RV for a week without having to dump this and refill that. A solar panel and frugal water use could double that. Why spend ridiculous amounts of money on RV parks that charge motel rates for a concrete slab?

Showering will use up the most of your water. If you stay at RV parks, you can use the park's facilities to shower, do laundry, etc. If you stay in boondocking locations, you will have fewer options.

mkl654321 wrote:
The various comments about the mechanical issues I will probably face make me think I might want to buy from a dealer, even though there's usually a 700 percent markup on their prices. At least I MIGHT have some recourse if the contraption blows up ten minutes after I drive it off the lot, though bitter experience has taught me that a used vehicle dealer's promise has less value than a used Kleenex.

In most states (if not all), RVs are not applicable for lemon laws. Pretty much all dealers will sell used RVs "as is". Once you drive it off the lot it is yours to deal with. The closer to new the RV, the more chance of it still having a warranty.


While folks have made assumptions, I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss their comments. You can learn a lot by taking it all in - rather than just blowing it off. Something that isn't applicable to your situation could get you thinking about something that is that you hadn't worked out before.

[jyrostng]

I just sold my 1989 class A and 2 days later found a class C 28' 1999 Jayco with 30,000 miles on it. It's been stored inside, rubber roof looks like new and it has 4 new tires with a 2015 dot number, I'm replacing the other 3. other than that, the v10 runs perfect and I have a ford certified mechanic in my family if a plug strips out. It's just the wife and I and we're both retired. I bought a tailgater setup for it from dish networks but in hindsight, camping world has the same price and no waiting for truck delivery. We bought a unit with no slides on purpose. The v10 also gets better mileage than my carb 454 on the old class A but, it has less power also.

[jaycocreek]

There are many lifestyles represented on the forums.

I think that is the key right there..Not many have full timed and lived out of an RV working.I spent most of my life doing just that and rarely in an RV park in various RV's including Montana..Also,some others don't realize how many choices to camp there are for free in say, Idaho.Within 10 miles of our town are endless places to camp or park with the only rule being a 18 day limit in one place, then you have to move a few miles to another.

Keep a clean camp and you usually don't get bothered but after a couple weeks I like to find another fishing hole anyway or it is time to get some more groceries/propane or gas for the gen.

I would not hesitate to work out of my 21ft C and live full time again ,in the Northwest..Some people can do it and others can't.Full timing in any RV takes a special kind of person that is willing to adapt to many things that are different than living in a house.I like it way more than my wife.:B

[pianotuna]

Mk you may think the battery bank size is too large. It is not. 6000 watts / 24 hours = 250 watts per hour. A computer may consume 1/3 of that hourly allotment.

[pianotuna]

Hi mk,

You created that unwarranted assumption by having a budget of just 10k, and by looking at what might be called "an old beater", because rarely would you find anything pristine for that price.

Look for a unit about five years old, no slide, and 26 feet. This is the sweet spot for driving comfort and there are many thousands of units at that length. Shorter units are much harder to come by. Slides cut into carrying capacity, and you will need all you can get.

Plan on upgrading the battery bank (Li if you have deep pockets (450 amp hours), used AGM telecom if you don't (800 amp-hours)). Add 600 watts of solar with a controller that allows voltage set points and has a battery temperature sensor. Mate that with a hybrid inverter charger (3000 watts). Add a generator later, if and when you find the solar can't keep up with your power needs.

Budget for add ons

Battery bank $3750 http://www.balqon.com/store-2/#!/Residential-Energy-Storage-6-kWhr/p/53535914/category=2860254 or $1000 for used AGM (weight and size may be a problem with AGM)

Solar $2 per watt for all parts and materials if you DIY $1200.00

Inverter/charger $3000

So just the add ons consume most of the original $10k budget.

Finding a reputable dealer is the hard part.

mkl654321 wrote:


Funny how so many people are making unwarranted assumptions. I'm not looking for a rolling substitute for an apartment. I have a good job that is performed exclusively online. I would like to be mobile while doing it.

I don't have to and probably won't spend the winters in Montana. That's the good thing about RVs. They are on wheels and have an engine. You can move them. I thought you folks knew that.

It is true, however, that one can spend the winter huddled in an RV park for cheap in the colder parts of the country. However, I intend to boobduck or whatever you call it most of the time. One person can stay in an RV for a week without having to dump this and refill that. A solar panel and frugal water use could double that. Why spend ridiculous amounts of money on RV parks that charge motel rates for a concrete slab?

The various comments about the mechanical issues I will probably face make me think I might want to buy from a dealer, even though there's usually a 700 percent markup on their prices. At least I MIGHT have some recourse if the contraption blows up ten minutes after I drive it off the lot, though bitter experience has taught me that a used vehicle dealer's promise has less value than a used Kleenex.

[PghBob]

And... of course where ever you choose to boondock, it will need to have some sort of internet service for you to work. Often, but not always, boon docking areas and internet service are mutually exclusive.

BTW, "we" on this forum do know the RVs have wheels and can move. But, not everyone chooses to do so. There are many lifestyles represented on the forums.

[Sam_Spade]

mkl654321 wrote:
Why spend ridiculous amounts of money on RV parks that charge motel rates for a concrete slab?

OK now we have a better picture.
So you need to think this through better BEFORE buying anything though.

"Simulate" a year's worth of what you think you might like to do.
If you won't be parking in a camp ground, where WILL you park ??

In Florida, the State and National parks are cheap alternatives BUT many are closed in the winter and have limits on the length of your stay when open.

Finding a free or real cheap place to park is going to be harder than you think.....I think.

Edit: maybe jaycocreek and others can give you some specific advice.

[jaycocreek]

Why spend ridiculous amounts of money on RV parks that charge motel rates for a concrete slab?

Exactly,especially when you can park just about anywhere for free in the NW.As for the mechanics of it all,your really buying two units,the drive chain and camper.Anyone who has ever bought a pickup or van knows exactly what to look for and the same goes for the camper part..

In my search for a short class C not that long ago,my major concern was getting a great chassis first.An engine and drive chain that has been taken care of with mild mileage and "No Leaks" and all service records if possible.If the drive chain was not up to par,it didn't matter about the coach as your most expensive repairs will be engine/transmission related.

As far the coach,in the 19-23ft sized class C's the floor plans are all but the same.Not a big selection of different ones.My bet is,if the drive chain was taken care of properly and in good shape,the coach is going to be taken care of the same.That's usually the case.

To me,buying a Class C motorhome is exactly the same as buying a pickup and camper..The camper won't do you any good if the pickup is unreliable and a pickup and E series motorhome are not all that different except there attached.

I haven't rented an RV spot for years and then it was just to dump/fill up and do laundry.

[mkl654321]

DrewE wrote:
I realize I'm reading between the lines, and may be misreading...but if you're thinking you will save money overall in Montana by full timing in a class C RV vs. renting an apartment or something similar, particularly over the winter, I suspect you'll find you're mistaken. Check the seasonal rates at campgrounds, and figure you'll spend a good bit on propane (or electricity) for heating as an RV is nowhere near as well insulated as a house.

If you're thinking you won't be in a campground, figure out where you'll get water fills and sewage dumps and propane fills when you need them, and preferably have an electric hookup. (Solar is nice, but you'll need a comparatively substantial system to keep enough power to run the furnace when the days are short in winter).

If you aren't looking to try to live on the cheap, but have other reasons for wanting or needing to full-time in the RV, then maybe this doesn't apply quite so much. Likewise, it's a little easier if this is a seasonal thing during the warmer weather.

Funny how so many people are making unwarranted assumptions. I'm not looking for a rolling substitute for an apartment. I have a good job that is performed exclusively online. I would like to be mobile while doing it.

I don't have to and probably won't spend the winters in Montana. That's the good thing about RVs. They are on wheels and have an engine. You can move them. I thought you folks knew that.

It is true, however, that one can spend the winter huddled in an RV park for cheap in the colder parts of the country. However, I intend to boobduck or whatever you call it most of the time. One person can stay in an RV for a week without having to dump this and refill that. A solar panel and frugal water use could double that. Why spend ridiculous amounts of money on RV parks that charge motel rates for a concrete slab?

The various comments about the mechanical issues I will probably face make me think I might want to buy from a dealer, even though there's usually a 700 percent markup on their prices. At least I MIGHT have some recourse if the contraption blows up ten minutes after I drive it off the lot, though bitter experience has taught me that a used vehicle dealer's promise has less value than a used Kleenex.

[Bordercollie]

There are a lot of videos about living full time in an RV in winter. I had forgotten many of the things we learned the hard way about living in an RV even in good weather

Here's an example, one of a series by the "hearts"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtCpCKiw1cg

[Gale_Hawkins]

All things being equal I think age can be more negative than high mileage.