Steering Stabilizer

We had a 37 ft Pace arrow tag axle and were new to having a MH. First rally saw the film of what happens with a blow out. Had one installed, helped the steering. A year later while wife was driving on a Saturday night, she experienced a front driver's side blow-out. She was able to pull the rig off to the side of the road with no problem. We had one installed on our DP when we traded.

I have a p-30 chassis. Before owning a motorhome i had many miles towing race car trailers and had driven countless times over 200 mph in dragsters. But driving the motorhome was a white knucle ride. I checkes every component,new air bags ,check alignment you name it.No differance finally I put on a safe -t-steer. Now I sit back,drive and enjoy the scenery.

There are 3 ...well 4, improvements you can make on many motor homes

That is one of 'em,, NOTE: Safe-t-steer has an optional remote adjustment thingy, I highly recommend it (You can re-set center from the driver's seat no hammer or wrench needed, this was not offered when I got my Blue-ox, but Blue-ox has it that's why I have one).

These try to hold you on the straight and narrow, Do not think they will fix your problem though.

Sway bars.. If you have someone follow you and they report the motor home rocking right and left, like fans at a Rock Concert singing WE are The World while holding up their lit Bics... Well..... Sway bars attempt to control this.. OFTEN the factory bars are just not up to a motor home

Now the other one is wag.. Motor homes use leaf spring suspension, this allows for some side to side movement of the body over the axles. Your follow car may see it wagging like a dog's tail.

TRAC Bars (also called pan-hard bars) stop this 100%, Completly eliminate it

I put on a front trac bar,, Most folks tell me the rear one is more important

MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE in my driving experience.

Unlike your stabilizer, Trac Bars have only two moving parts, the bearings on the ends of the rod, nothing else. it is, effectively, one solid bar (may be one bar or a 2 piece, adjustable bar, but once installed, it's one solid bar).

I think this will do more for you than the Safe-t-steer, but by no means neglect the stabilizer as well.


the 4th thing: How are your Shocks?

I have the steer safe on my P-30 and drive it one hand like a car even when trucks pass so in stall that first. The only time I had a white knuckle ride was driving it home when I first bought it I never drove a MH before. If this MH is new to you give it several trips to get used to driving it before you spend a lot of money trying to make it drive better.

Thanks to all for your great information about the track bar and its' value in the sway control. I will either get one or make one.

You can make a track Bar for the rear and it does help, I made one for my 2003 Pace Arrow 37A. My cost was about $50. vs $550 for a purchased one. Go to "OMEY"S" website it is for mostly workhorse info but he has DIY for track bars and other things. It is a great site

"A rear track bar may be your only solution to being pushed around by semis. The chassis sits above the axle on leaf springs. This allows the chassis to sway side to side above the axle. A track bar mounts between the rear differential and the frame and keeps the chassis centered over the axle."

This is the right solution.
I made one for my '86 gasser and it stopped nearly all the sway problems.

Check the bell cranks as mentioned. At the same time look closely at the front crossmember. It bolts to frame rails in the same area the bell cranks are mounted. I found the bolts had worked loose on our Bounder. Moving the steering gear caused the frame rail to flex, top to bottom, instead of transmitting the movement through the bell cranks.

A rear track bar may be your only solution to being pushed around by semis. The chassis sits above the axle on leaf springs. This allows the chassis to sway side to side above the axle. A track bar mounts between the rear differential and the frame and keeps the chassis centered over the axle.

I had a P30 chassis several years ago. It hung low in the back and I was unable to back it up a short uphill ramp into my side yard. I added the rear airbags with an electric pump so I could easily jack up the rear when I got home. The air bags worked great for lifting the rear end and getting me into my parking spot.

I bought the bags primarily to get my coach in the backyard, but I used the air bags to bring the rear end a little above level and to equalize some lean on one side. I was really surprised to find how much better the coach handled. A much more stable ride and better road manners, including less push from big rigs.

Lastly, you'll never eliminate all push from the big trucks. I found the smaller box trucks pushed even worse than the semis. With that said, I always watch my mirrors and ready myself with a slight left movement to counteract them. You don't have to wear yourself out, just be prepared.

Bell cranks are the "pivots" for the drag link as it goes back from the steering box.

To check play in steering:

Have helper (engine off) turn the steering wheel back and forth, back and forth while you look for any play between steering box and the right front wheel. If everything is tight, even a small move in the steering box output shaft will cause a small movement in not only the left, but also right front wheel. If not, where is the movement lost to play in a component.

Now, with engine on, see how many inches of steering wheel play your helper has when you just start to see the steering box output shaft move as they move the steering wheel back and forth.