Forum Discussion

jpwiggo's avatar
jpwiggo
Explorer
Jul 22, 2014

Surge brakes on a trailer behind a DP

I pull a 24’ boat behind my 38’ Gulfstream DP. I’ve been doing this for 4 years now, and have constantly been experiencing trailer hub overheat issues due to excessive braking on longer trips.

The boat trailer uses surge brakes. I tow at a slight upangle, new calipers last year, use brake buddies, new bearings, repacked this year . Emergency breakaway cable has plenty of slack.

Also when towing this trailer with my truck, I don’t experience issues. However, I don’t tow with the truck more than 50miles at a time. It’s when I get to 200+ miles that things seem to go wrong.

I don't go up/down any really large hills.

I know it’s braking as I’m getting a ton of brake dust. This past trip I also experienced a brake lock on event. When pulling out of a rest stop the brakes stayed on. This was going up a small incline, not even downhill. I did not notice that the brakes were still on but fortunately the folks behind me did and warned me. I pulled over and watched the grease flow out of the hubs and pop off the dust covers.
I let cool, then took out the disk brake bleeder screws, regreased and finished my trip without trailer brakes or any further issues.

I’m just wondering have others had issues with Surge brakes behind a DP? I’m thinking I need to change trailers and go with electric or something. This was too stressful
Class A
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Jul 23, 2014
    I would have to say some kind of motor home controlled is best solution as well, however there may be another solution.

    Contact the surge brake manufacturer.. I will explain briefly how surge brakes work.

    When you brake the trailer presses against a SPRING in the hitch and this movement operates the brakes, either by straight Mechanical (system of levers and cables) or by hydraulic means or a combination of the two.

    Clearly, the spring (if it exists) needs ajustment, or if it does not exist, installation.
  • Groover's avatar
    Groover
    Explorer II
    Jul 23, 2014
    Sometimes it takes a vigorous yank on the hitch to release surge brakes and you may not be getting that with the motorhome. Check the slide mechanism to be sure that it is moving properly and any springs that may help release the master cylinder.
  • Ductape's avatar
    Ductape
    Explorer
    Jul 23, 2014
    Unlikely it has anything to do with what the tow vehicle is. You said you never go more than 50 miles with the truck. I expect you probably also never tow less than 50 miles with the DP? If you do, what is the result?

    My guess is something causing a slow buildup of heat until it reaches a critical point, and that point is more than 50 miles.
  • jpwiggo's avatar
    jpwiggo
    Explorer
    Jul 22, 2014
    Yes I replaced my calipers as I thought they were the faulty issue. They were sticking and '08 OE with this SBtrailer brand. They were shot.

    Like I said I've not had any issue with the trailer when being towed behind a normal passenger truck, that tows at the same angle.
  • fourmat's avatar
    fourmat
    Explorer
    Jul 22, 2014
    my guess is master cylinder is not releasing the brakes I have towed my boat 600 miles each way with surge brakes no issue except on very long downhill Also check the brake lines on the trailer make sure nothing has been pinched this can allow fluid through but not enough pressure to release completely. What was the reason for replacing calipers did they show excessive heat damage
  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    Jul 22, 2014
    ChooChooMan74 wrote:
    Electric over Hydraulic is the best solution IMHO.

    X2 but fairly expensive ($700). I would take the sliding portion of the surge brake apart and make sure everything is smooth and clean. I would try a stiffer spring so the brakes only come on when you brake fairly hard.
  • dkreuzen's avatar
    dkreuzen
    Explorer
    Jul 22, 2014
    I have towed 1000's of miles with surge brakes, both drum and disc. Only had brake heating issues on long downhill runs. I would guess that the master cylinder is not releasing pressure for some reason. I recommend you replace it and at the same time flush out the entire system.

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