RustyMacIntosh
Aug 15, 2020Explorer II
Swapping two AC's. Much of a job? Bounder 34ft
I basically have just about given up on the factory AC units on this 34Ft Bounder, 1996. This weekend just about was my limit.
I am having my 90yr old home tented for termites. So the dogs and I are--or were---moved into the motorhome.
Front AC would not come on. Rear AC only works when I open the panel and set the Intelli-**** to REAR TEST. Then it only runs (compressor on) constantly.
The generator started surging after a few hours and quit. Might be the cheap fuel pump I put on it. I do have a new replacement carb. I got 100 gallons of fresh gas in the tank. I tried tinkering but nothing. Runs for a while, maybe an hour then starts surging then dies.
After popping the circuits in the house, and trying to run off generator, I gave up. SInce the house is tented I am stuck.
So we moved into the travel trailer which has your standard Coleman AC unit. Crowded but at least in 100d plus weather it is cold in here. I mean actually it is nice. 110 today and I think we are at 70 in here. I love this little Mallard.
Interesting to note is the Mallard will run on a 3500 wat generator but the motorhome wont. It acts like the compressors are stalliing. Not enough amps.
SOOOOO Question is. I am tossing both AC units. I am tired of the Bounder shed wall thermostat not working. I cannot wait to toss it in the trash. Upgraded new AC units will be purchased.
IF and when I buy two new AC's, standard dial connections at the unit, I would now need to wire in a thermostat for the furnace right???
Or is there another way around this. The wall unit rarely has worked in the past few years. The AC units will run on fan only but begin to skip on and off even running a 30amp connection. Then I find the rear unit compressor on but now the fan is off.
Its fine to run on the "TEST" mode (only the rear works) but it runs solid with no cycling. 110 deg is fine, but at night it gets to the point of 100 below zero.
I was told the Bounder wall thermostat was a problem from day one with these units. At 20 years it is long overdue for the trash can..
SO I want to put standard 15k units up top with manual controls. But what do I do with the furance? Is this easy to put a thermostat on the wall so it will run? Is it possible to put thermostats on the wall in the back for the AC? Not that I am being cheap but if there is a way around this silly Fleetwood Electronic Temp control thingy on the wall I am all ears.
I am having my 90yr old home tented for termites. So the dogs and I are--or were---moved into the motorhome.
Front AC would not come on. Rear AC only works when I open the panel and set the Intelli-**** to REAR TEST. Then it only runs (compressor on) constantly.
The generator started surging after a few hours and quit. Might be the cheap fuel pump I put on it. I do have a new replacement carb. I got 100 gallons of fresh gas in the tank. I tried tinkering but nothing. Runs for a while, maybe an hour then starts surging then dies.
After popping the circuits in the house, and trying to run off generator, I gave up. SInce the house is tented I am stuck.
So we moved into the travel trailer which has your standard Coleman AC unit. Crowded but at least in 100d plus weather it is cold in here. I mean actually it is nice. 110 today and I think we are at 70 in here. I love this little Mallard.
Interesting to note is the Mallard will run on a 3500 wat generator but the motorhome wont. It acts like the compressors are stalliing. Not enough amps.
SOOOOO Question is. I am tossing both AC units. I am tired of the Bounder shed wall thermostat not working. I cannot wait to toss it in the trash. Upgraded new AC units will be purchased.
IF and when I buy two new AC's, standard dial connections at the unit, I would now need to wire in a thermostat for the furnace right???
Or is there another way around this. The wall unit rarely has worked in the past few years. The AC units will run on fan only but begin to skip on and off even running a 30amp connection. Then I find the rear unit compressor on but now the fan is off.
Its fine to run on the "TEST" mode (only the rear works) but it runs solid with no cycling. 110 deg is fine, but at night it gets to the point of 100 below zero.
I was told the Bounder wall thermostat was a problem from day one with these units. At 20 years it is long overdue for the trash can..
SO I want to put standard 15k units up top with manual controls. But what do I do with the furance? Is this easy to put a thermostat on the wall so it will run? Is it possible to put thermostats on the wall in the back for the AC? Not that I am being cheap but if there is a way around this silly Fleetwood Electronic Temp control thingy on the wall I am all ears.