Synthetic oil change-over

I have done a bunch of reading on the problems with the HUEI system on the Cat C-7. In all the cases the owner was running regular oil not synthetic. It was also pointed out that the HUEI system needs to be kept as clean as possible inside. I think I would run the new High efiencey filters such as the Cat 1R-1807 and 1R-1808 filters contain an improved, higher efficiency filter media. The Cat 1R-1807 and 1R-1808 filters offer better filtration efficiency than standard oil filters, improved engine cleanliness and a longer component life. This media is designed to increase contaminant capturing efficiency while maintaining excellent dirt holding capacity characteristics.
The other thing I noted was the bearings in the pump had failed from inadequate liberation. This tells me I would run a synthetic oil to better lubricate the pump bearings. I would run Mobil 1 or Rotella T-6 5-40 oil.
You need to have oil pressure as soon as possible to the bearings in the pump.
Bill

Lobstah wrote:
My last two cars, with 100,000mi engine warranties, required Mobil 1.

Just sayin'

Jim

My last new car, with a lifetime/unlimited mileage engine warranty, called for regular 5W-20 changed at 7500 miles!

427435 wrote:

RVUSA wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
Corvette's come from the factory with full synthetic, so I see no reason not to right now.

corvettes come with a much different cylinder honing.

Without a diamond braded honing in the cylinder running a synthetic before the peaks have been worn down by the rings oil will get caught in the valleys and coke up there from the combustion temperature as the piston goes down. It can and usually does cause the cylinder to become almost ice smooth and oil burning and loss of power comes right behind it.

Shoot an email to Cummins and ask them when the best time is. They built the motor, they'll know the right answer.

Again, plateau honing has been around for 30 years or more-------not to mention hard chrome moly rings. Engines (diesel or gas) won't meet EPA standards or MPG standards (whether EPA or industry competition0 without plateau honing.

I've always dumped the factory fill oil after 1000-1500 miles and put Mobil 1 in my new cars going back to 1980. Never a problem.

Chrysler was using moly rings as far back as the early 70's!

wa8yxm wrote:

Jarlaxle wrote:
Oil is oil. If you like wasting money, go for synthetic. Otherwise...use whatever 15W-40 you can get the cheapest.

You are right and wrong at the same time. Yes, Oil is Oil, however some Oil is highly contaminated, some is highly pruified, some is highly refined some is not.. This is why there are different brands and prices, Oh, and some is recycled and some is not.

Amzoil is a LUBRICANT, it is not oil, it is synthetic. So it is a different critter entirely,, Takes the place of Oil though, Mixes well with Oil though, but it is not oil since it never came out of a hole in the ground.

Does not matter. Oil is oil. Use whatever meets the correct specs that you can get the cheapest.

My last two cars, with 100,000mi engine warranties, required Mobil 1.

Just sayin'

Jim

wa8yxm wrote:
This is from Printed Amsoil flyers. NOTE: I do not sell this, I get paid nothing for it, I've never sold it and have no connection to the company.. Just picked up a flyer at Atlanta a couple weeks ago.

OE Synthetic Diesel Iol Suitable for both modern and older diesel applications requiring API CJ-4 Specification,

Series says it is recommended for Gasoline enines recommending API SL. Same for their HD Diesel oil (API SL).

Marine 2-stroke NMMA TC-W3 and API-TC

Marine 4-strok NMMA FC-W

Elsewhere in the flyer they say First Full Synthetic to receive Full API certification"


That said, I did not see the API sticker or logo on any of the labels, May be on the caps (As I recall that is normally where it is) but they did not show the caps in the flyer.

Remember that the flyer is prepared by their sales or advertising people so Well you know.. Murphys law for niave young engineers says 50% off corportate claims and another 50% off if you are talking to a salesman.

While they were the first to get API approval for a synthetic oil, that was a long time ago------------and that oil is no longer marketed by them. Just more shuck and jive.

RVUSA wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
Corvette's come from the factory with full synthetic, so I see no reason not to right now.

corvettes come with a much different cylinder honing.

Without a diamond braded honing in the cylinder running a synthetic before the peaks have been worn down by the rings oil will get caught in the valleys and coke up there from the combustion temperature as the piston goes down. It can and usually does cause the cylinder to become almost ice smooth and oil burning and loss of power comes right behind it.

Shoot an email to Cummins and ask them when the best time is. They built the motor, they'll know the right answer.

Again, plateau honing has been around for 30 years or more-------not to mention hard chrome moly rings. Engines (diesel or gas) won't meet EPA standards or MPG standards (whether EPA or industry competition0 without plateau honing.

I've always dumped the factory fill oil after 1000-1500 miles and put Mobil 1 in my new cars going back to 1980. Never a problem.

This is from Printed Amsoil flyers. NOTE: I do not sell this, I get paid nothing for it, I've never sold it and have no connection to the company.. Just picked up a flyer at Atlanta a couple weeks ago.

OE Synthetic Diesel Iol Suitable for both modern and older diesel applications requiring API CJ-4 Specification,

Series says it is recommended for Gasoline enines recommending API SL. Same for their HD Diesel oil (API SL).

Marine 2-stroke NMMA TC-W3 and API-TC

Marine 4-strok NMMA FC-W

Elsewhere in the flyer they say First Full Synthetic to receive Full API certification"


That said, I did not see the API sticker or logo on any of the labels, May be on the caps (As I recall that is normally where it is) but they did not show the caps in the flyer.

Remember that the flyer is prepared by their sales or advertising people so Well you know.. Murphys law for niave young engineers says 50% off corportate claims and another 50% off if you are talking to a salesman.

wny_pat wrote:

427435 wrote:

moisheh wrote:
Amsoil dealers are like aluminum siding salesman and they are certainly not lube engineers. If you want an expert try one of the oil companies. A real oil company not Amway, oops I mean Amsoil.

Moisheh

X2

Plus a lot of their oils are not API approved---------so, if are under warranty, you could get screwed.

A couple of the Amsoil lines are API licensed/certified. API is not "approval", it is a license to manufacturer to meet a certain specification. And the cost for API license is $360,000 for one test alone, and you can be looking at another $100,000 after the initial $360,000. I personally think the European oil certification is much better than ours!!! And I am not a big fan of Amsoil and their marketing system, but they do have a good product.

The other option (that a lot of oil packagers use) is to just mix in an already approved additive package into their base oil (synthetic or dino). No need to repeat the API testing.

Without the API logo on the container, who knows what is really in the container (and I would never trust an oil salesman on that).

Wildbill: You are still not providing any information. Just a bunch of heresay. Do you think that Swift, Schneider, CRT and other big carriers are having engine troubles and coking?? Those carriers do NOT use synthetic oils.Being as most RV'rs are using dino oil where are the posts that they have had coking? Modern engine oils have super additive packages and other than cold weather flow your synthetic has no value for an RV'r. BTW: Trucking Companies do use synthetic oils in diffs and manual transmissions but hardly ever in diesel engines.
Moisheh

2008 Dynasty 42 ft.

2005 Bounder 34M DP, small fleet consisting of 4 propane forklifts, 3 class 5 Diesel trucks, 1 pickup, 2 SUV's, 2 autos and a case tractor/backhoe!!!!!