Thinking about buying a B

We started out wanting a 19' RT Agile. But, we wanted a larger bath, so we also looked at the Pleasure Way Ascent. Pleasure Way and Leisure Travel both have larger baths than the RT - at least up to 2012 and the models we saw. In the end, we bought a Leisure Travel Free Spirit 21b. It is 22' long including the rear-mounted spare. We went for the 22' because we found a great buy on one with body damage, which we fixed. I would say go for the 21' or 22'+ for the space. You can't tell the difference driving the 19' versus the 22' in my opinion. Parking is fine, too.

You mentioned Travasak in you experimenting with bedding. We bought one eight years ago and love it. You are correct with them not being around any longer but RVSuperbag is the same concept. You may want to check out their website.

Glad you like your ERA and wish you many happy miles ahead.

GottaB ? Or if unavailable , classBgottaB?

Oh, and I need to talk to someone about changing my name. I am no longer a "classBwannaB". I've got one. Now, what do I want my new name to be?.....

I always intended to make a follow-up post but busy, busy, busy. My last post said there was an Era in Albuquerque. Not so. There were no Eras in New Mexico so we went to Mesa, AZ. We drove their Era, I approved of that, but it was so filthy, and it had a vibration, so we didn't buy it. Meanwhile, a fine fellow that had made posts on this thread connected me to a dealership in Forest City, IA. We stuck was seemed to be a fair to good deal and we gave them a deposit. We then returned to NM for a week of doctor visits and then departed for FC, IA. After we left NM it rained on us all the way there. After purchasing the Era we asked them to keep it overnight because of the freezing temperatures. The next day we started a 12 day dodge of rain and freezing temps. We used an ipad and weatherbug to keep us out of trouble but eventually gave up and just drove to northern Alabama to see our son. It rained all the way. The Era does not leak. Many RV parks were closed due to flooding along our route. I should mention that we could not drive immediately back to NM because we had left our towable Suzuki in Forest City. In between storm fronts we dashed back to Forest City, had a couple of concerns addressed, hooked up the Suzuki and started south as it started snowing. Now we had been driving in quite a bit of wind from time to time and the Era had done very well. But, towing the Suzuki we encountered steady crosswinds of 30mph with gusts over 50mph (in Kansas, wouldn't you know). I would have parked the class A I had several years ago but we kept going. We eventually pulled into a almost full RV park that evening and the manager said RVs had been checking in all day to get out of the wind. So the Era pulled the Suzuki just fine, except for a few violent jerks when we encountered bumps. We don't intend to pull the Suzuki. We just had to pull it this time to get it home. ... Why did we get the Era? Both DW and I agreed the 190 or 210 we had intended to get were just a little too small for us. The Era 70a is a little longer than I wanted but it has a "comfortable" living area and a really nice storage area under the twin beds. Now, if we can just keep from overloading it!! My only complaint: the overhead AC/heatpump is noisy. My favorite: it drives very well. DW needs more padding on the beds and we are experimenting with bedding (too bad Travasaks is no more...) As soon as DW passes a kidney stone we will explore Southwest New Mexico. After that, we'll head out to see our sons in Alabama and Florida.

The reason for leveling, besides personal comfort, is that an absorption style fridge needs to be level to work properly. Compressor type fridges are not level dependent. Not many Class B units come with compressor type fridges, usually an after market modification.

To level, I carry 6 blocks made out of 8 x 2. I have only used 4 of the six while camping. The blocks are in sets of three, with one end tapered so that there is a continuous smooth ramp up to the top block. Each block is pinned to the one below by dropping a 1/4 inch bolt through lined up holes. So for a set of three there are just two bolts. About 90% of leveling entails one or two blocks under the front wheel or wheels. We use a bulls eye level.

The bulls eye level is first used inside the fridge (leveling the van to do this). When the fridge is level, then find a spot on the counter or ledge where you can easily read the level and mark the spot. Thereafter, place the level on the marked spot and go from there. After much practice, I can judge where and how many blocks to use. Sometimes, I put one block crosswise, another block as the ramp and run up only part way. The 4 blocks I use travel with the bolts through the holes, so they stay put - most of the time.

Yes.The Roadtrek probably has a city water hookup like just about every RV ,but you simply use the tank water and pump. I have never hooked up to city water in 23 years of RVing. I always use the tank water. Just fill before moving on. You also don't need sewer hooked up until dumping.

Oh, so there is not a water hook up for the Roadtrek as there is in a travel trailer.
if all do is unplug the Roadtrek and drive away, then it is much easier than having to deal with a hitch!
I was misinformed. Thank you.

zptdewda wrote:
Hi everyone,

I have been looking at the Versatile 170, because it can be parked anywhere and drives like a regular van. The Roadtrek website says it is easy to maneuver and that is important to me. My dog and I travel alone, so I would like as few complications as possible.

On the other hand, I have read that people buy travel trailers so that they can have a car because they find it easier to unhitch than to unplug the Roadtrek and unhook the water. I guess they would have to re-level the van after each drive, so I wonder if that is an especially difficult task. Just from what I have read, it seems that there are no clear answers on the best hitch and constant maintenance, after the initial set up which requires serious measuring and balancing if you have a weight distribution hitch. Then, for the rest of your life you will be going to truck weighing stations and weighing each axle of the tow vehicle and trailer together, then separately, figuring out the tongue weight, etc. Whew!

So I wonder if I am missing some information about disconnecting and reconnecting a Roadtrek, at a campsite, that would make it more difficult than I thought?

Thank you.

The only thing you really need to hook up at the campsite is the electric. And that's strictly a flip the breaker, plug and unplug thing.
Fill your water tank as needed, dump as needed. that's it.
Leveling is no big deal once you do it a few times, especially with a single rear wheeled vehicle. Say 2009 and older Sprinters and all the Ford & Chevy B's.

Hi everyone,

I have been looking at the Versatile 170, because it can be parked anywhere and drives like a regular van. The Roadtrek website says it is easy to maneuver and that is important to me. My dog and I travel alone, so I would like as few complications as possible.

On the other hand, I have read that people buy travel trailers so that they can have a car because they find it easier to unhitch than to unplug the Roadtrek and unhook the water. I guess they would have to re-level the van after each drive, so I wonder if that is an especially difficult task. Just from what I have read, it seems that there are no clear answers on the best hitch and constant maintenance, after the initial set up which requires serious measuring and balancing if you have a weight distribution hitch. Then, for the rest of your life you will be going to truck weighing stations and weighing each axle of the tow vehicle and trailer together, then separately, figuring out the tongue weight, etc. Whew!

So I wonder if I am missing some information about disconnecting and reconnecting a Roadtrek, at a campsite, that would make it more difficult than I thought?

Thank you.