Thread Too Short on Inner Tire Valve Stem

[nandj]

I recently bought a small class C. It's on a Ford Transit chassis. It's the first vehicle I've had with dual tires. Both the inner and outer valve stems are quite accessible. This makes me think they are set up with dually valve stems.

The problem is on the inner valve stem. The length of thread showing is half what I'd expect. I can't connect to it properly with a gauge. There is a nut on the stem that presses against a flat rubber piece. The nut covers half the valve stem threading. I want to see if someone can tell me if the setup is wrong where I need to have someone look at it, or if I just need a different style tool to check tire pressure and to fill it.

I'll try to attach a picture here.


Click For Full-Size Image.


Thanks,
Neil

[sonuvabug]

nandj wrote:
... snipped ... The problem is on the inner valve stem. The length of thread showing is half what I'd expect. I can't connect to it properly with a gauge. Neil

Neil, contact Chuck or Sue at their business in the linky. I had a similar problem and they fixed me right up. Great product and great people to deal with. You will not be disappointed.

Tire Man - California

[coachhouseQ]

X2 for Alligator V2B flow thru double seal caps

[j-d]

Bordercollie wrote:
If Ford truck dealer can't fix this, call Ford. Looks likes wrong part/assembly by Ford or their wheel/tire supplier.

A true Ford/Supplier story: I knew a manager at the Ford plant that built Escorts near Detroit. Took us on a very detailed walking tour of the assembly line. We got to Tires and Wheels. He said the wheels arrive with the tires mounted, aired to a specification, and marked with indexing to show the balance of the tire was optimized to that of the wheel. Started getting calls from dealers: "We can't check air in these tires." Turned out, the Supplier uses an automated machine to mount tires, and the seating of the bead onto the rim also accomplishes the proper inflation of the tire. The Valve is NOT used. They'd shipped a batch of Tire/Wheel assemblies using Wheels with NO Valves. No Hole, No Valve, No Where in the Wheels...

I DO have one more...

[CharlesinGA]

This is the best suggestion yet. The nut is there to retain the rubber grommet. Remove nut, find a very thin washer if not already on the stem, and install the gator caps. Well made in Germany. Amazon has a box of ten for $14.99 These things work. No caps to mess with, they seal the dirt out. Those are gripping grooves on the outside, not threads, You do not and cannot install a cap on these, they are the cap.

https://www.amazon.com/Alligator-V2B-Inflate-Through-Valve/dp/B014VCY3S2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1479753839&sr=1-1&keywords=gator+caps

Charles

j-d wrote:


WWMD??? What would MacGyver do?

Just thought this:

1. Remove the Nut

2. If there's a little Washer underneath, leave it

3. Screw an Air-through Valve Cap on there and see if it snugs down. If it snugs before compressing the rubber stabilizer

4. Add another washer

Now the stabilizer is held, and you can air your tire!

Air-through caps are great! They keep dirt out, and they do NOT depress your original valve core till you press a gauge or air chuck onto them. The thread-like rings you see on the male end are not threads. They are only rings, used to allow use of a clip-on air chuck. Our coach has NINE of them. Six on Wheels, One on Spare, Two on Air Bags. This is an Amazon Link and they are available in various quantities from various vendors. NAPA has sets of four on their browsing displays at about the same price as these on Amazon.

[Bordercollie]

If Ford truck dealer can't fix this, call Ford. Looks likes wrong part/assembly by Ford or their wheel/tire supplier.

Best solution may be to have Tire Man, Borg or other long, solid metal, custom formed, valve stems installed by a pro truck tire shop on duals, and front wheels.

[big_jim_2]

Very simple -call Ford.

[Antony]

Are both sides like the one in the picture? If the other side has more stem showing, I would tighten the nut on the one in the picture. On my extenders the nut is a retainer that has been known to loosen over time. If this went on for a while, mine would look like yours as the extender would pull into the grommet, or as the grommet pushes out of the wheel hole.
Anthony

[j-d]

Harvey51 wrote:
A measure-without-removing valve cap or short extender should make it usable.

WWMD??? What would MacGyver do?

Just thought this:

1. Remove the Nut

2. If there's a little Washer underneath, leave it

3. Screw an Air-through Valve Cap on there and see if it snugs down. If it snugs before compressing the rubber stabilizer

4. Add another washer

Now the stabilizer is held, and you can air your tire!

Air-through caps are great! They keep dirt out, and they do NOT depress your original valve core till you press a gauge or air chuck onto them. The thread-like rings you see on the male end are not threads. They are only rings, used to allow use of a clip-on air chuck. Our coach has NINE of them. Six on Wheels, One on Spare, Two on Air Bags. This is an Amazon Link and they are available in various quantities from various vendors. NAPA has sets of four on their browsing displays at about the same price as these on Amazon.

[Harvey51]

A measure-without-removing valve cap or short extender should make it usable.

[stripit]

Sure looks like the nut is holding that black plastic thing in place. That plastic thing may be keeping the valve centered in the hole and not letting it flex and snap off. Be adventurous and unscrew the nut and pull tha plastic sheild out and look.

[nandj]

Good food for thought so far. I appreciate it. It seems like a call to Borg or Tire Man is a good idea for a proper long term solution even if they don't have one now.

There is a Camping World nearby I can get some opinions from. There's also a Ford truck/RV shop I can check with if needed.

Thanks,
Neil

[IAMICHABOD]

I would suggest doing what klutchdust suggested,and see what the purpose of that nut and rubber bushing is. Just a WAG but it may be that they put rubber valve stems on the wheel and the bushing is there so they won't move when inflating the tire which is the cheap way of doing it.

They should have metal ones,such as Tireman or borg. Both don't list ones for a Ford Transit. You can call Chuck at Tireman and he can tell you if any of his products will fit your rig, he is very helpful and will answer questions you may have.

[klutchdust]

I would deflate the tire, remove the nut and rubber bushing to see what their purpose is.

[j-d]

Dually Valve (Borg) and Tire Man sell custom valves for motor homes. I don't know if they've added Transit. Camping World sells Borg, maybe they can help.

But I'm wondering if your case calls for only a longer ordinary valve for your inner duals.

Can you check the rest of your tires easily?

If that rubber bushing has a retaining ridge on both sides, it'll stay in the wheel and support the valve. You could probably remove that nut. The valves cited above have those "stabilizers" but they only snap into the wheel. They do not have a fastener to the valve.

I don't know if the Transit uses the typical .453" hole used on cars and light trucks (like Ford/Chevy Class C) or even the .625" truck type. They might use something special. Special meaning Odd to some.