JamesJudasPries
Mar 23, 2014Explorer
Upgrading from group 27 to golf carts
Hi everyone,
I have a question for the battery experts out there. I am an electrician and familiar with DC and rv systems but that doesn't mean I am an expert and would like some advice. I am planning to upgrade the coach from a single group 27 deep cycle to two gc-2 6v batteries. The existing compartment is inside the van and it is ventilated and sealed. However it is too small so it is going to be expanded, and the batteries will have to be shoe horned in. If it really won't work, I think I will settle for 2 x group 24s. Anyway, the real problem is this:
I only have a honda ex350 generator (350w) peak. I don't want to buy a new generator. It was able to charge my single group 27 battery in boost mode when it was pretty much 10% SOC, but it would almost overload the gen for a few minutes until the charge current tapered. The converter is a progressive dynamics 9145 with charge wizard. I measured about 19 amps @ 14.4 volts charge current to the old battery when low which is probably very close to max output of the generator. The wires from the converter to battery are #10 AWG and probably only 3-4 ft long.
I am wondering... What is the current demand from 2 golf cart batts at 10% SOC when 14.4 volts is applied? 50 amps? What about 13.6v? 25 amps? 13.2v? 20 amps? These are just guesses, since I have never had a chance to experiment with these types of batteries. I am thinking if I can manually set the charge wizard to 13.2v and charge the batts at that voltage for a few hours I won't overload the generator. I don't really think I will frequently drain the batteries that low, so maybe in reality I will only be bringing them back up from 40-60 percent soc. I wonder what the current demand would be there? Also I wonder if leaving the smallish #10 wires will limit the voltage and somewhat trim the charge current lower to my advantage.
On a final note, I will be upgrading from a 75 amp alternator to a 120 amp alternator. I will be running #4 wire directly from the alternator positive post to the isolator solenoid and then to the new batteries. There will be a 100 amp fuse close to the alt and then one at the batteries as well. There will also be a negative wire going from alternator case bolt to van frame of #4, and also at batteries #4 strap to frame. I am hoping this will allow me to charge the batts fast while driving, and also recover batteries enough for the generator to take over after some high amperage idling time.
Well, what do you guys think of all this?
I have a question for the battery experts out there. I am an electrician and familiar with DC and rv systems but that doesn't mean I am an expert and would like some advice. I am planning to upgrade the coach from a single group 27 deep cycle to two gc-2 6v batteries. The existing compartment is inside the van and it is ventilated and sealed. However it is too small so it is going to be expanded, and the batteries will have to be shoe horned in. If it really won't work, I think I will settle for 2 x group 24s. Anyway, the real problem is this:
I only have a honda ex350 generator (350w) peak. I don't want to buy a new generator. It was able to charge my single group 27 battery in boost mode when it was pretty much 10% SOC, but it would almost overload the gen for a few minutes until the charge current tapered. The converter is a progressive dynamics 9145 with charge wizard. I measured about 19 amps @ 14.4 volts charge current to the old battery when low which is probably very close to max output of the generator. The wires from the converter to battery are #10 AWG and probably only 3-4 ft long.
I am wondering... What is the current demand from 2 golf cart batts at 10% SOC when 14.4 volts is applied? 50 amps? What about 13.6v? 25 amps? 13.2v? 20 amps? These are just guesses, since I have never had a chance to experiment with these types of batteries. I am thinking if I can manually set the charge wizard to 13.2v and charge the batts at that voltage for a few hours I won't overload the generator. I don't really think I will frequently drain the batteries that low, so maybe in reality I will only be bringing them back up from 40-60 percent soc. I wonder what the current demand would be there? Also I wonder if leaving the smallish #10 wires will limit the voltage and somewhat trim the charge current lower to my advantage.
On a final note, I will be upgrading from a 75 amp alternator to a 120 amp alternator. I will be running #4 wire directly from the alternator positive post to the isolator solenoid and then to the new batteries. There will be a 100 amp fuse close to the alt and then one at the batteries as well. There will also be a negative wire going from alternator case bolt to van frame of #4, and also at batteries #4 strap to frame. I am hoping this will allow me to charge the batts fast while driving, and also recover batteries enough for the generator to take over after some high amperage idling time.
Well, what do you guys think of all this?