Wanderlust

Coelacanth wrote:
Hmm,...interesting.

Ok, after some examination, my previous RV, the Itasca Suncruiser, had actual wheels with lug nuts. The Augusta has hub caps that simulate chrome wheels.
The valve stems are almost impossible to access and the edges to the opening are incredibly sharp.
So, the idea is to remove the hubcaps. In looking at various online postings and videos it seems that many of these have two nuts that must be removed in order to pry off the hubcaps. These nuts are marked to make them identifiable. But, in looking at my hubcaps I see no nuts that are so marked. So,...do my hubcaps simply pry off, as they would on a car?

My Itasca Class C has the chrome wheel covers with the two specially marked nuts (an indent in the side of two of the nuts) that must be unscrewed in order to just slide off each cover should I need to remove the wheel.

However, I don't have to remove the covers to air up the tires. What I did have to do - especially to deal with the rear duals - is buy a regular truckers type air nozzle for my compressor. This makes it easy to add air to the tires while leaving the covers in place -> for the front tires and both tires in each rear dual set.

That’s next.

I followed what Harvard posted earlier about the +5 castor on a E350 class C I had and it made a world of difference.

Installed a Roadmaster stabilizer. Problem 90% corrected.

Yes. Nail on the head.
I bought the very same tool.
Mission accomplished!
Thanks!!

Coelacanth wrote:
So, the idea is to remove the hubcaps. In looking at various online postings and videos it seems that many of these have two nuts that must be removed in order to pry off the hubcaps. These nuts are marked to make them identifiable. But, in looking at my hubcaps I see no nuts that are so marked. So,...do my hubcaps simply pry off, as they would on a car?

Do they look like these?

(photo taken from this post)


I have hubcaps like this on my E-450 and they just pry off. The best tool I've bought for the RV is this hubcap removal tool - I used to struggle to pry off the hubcaps with a screwdriver then try to pound them back on with the palm of my hand and/or my foot. The tool has a rubber mallet built-in and it works with the prybar so you can pry against the tire without fear of damaging it or marking it up.

Did you weigh the front and rear axle yet? If so post the weights here and it may help you diagnose your problem. You don't want to just throw parts at it in hopes that someone else's fix will work.

I have a 2015 C and bought it with 7250 miles on it and driving was like white knuckles, so after some research I added Hellig sway bars, front and rear (got rid of OEM bars) then added Safety Plus steering control, BIG IMPROVEMENT, then added Sumo Springs front and rear, Bilstien shocks and a Supersteer Trac Bar. Yes a few $$$ but seriously no wander, trucks passing and wind barely affects it. It’s a pleasure to drive now. In my opinion the money spent was well worth it but to others some may say overkill.
But I’m very happy with the results. The Trac Bar was the last addition and I am very pleased with that add on.

Coelacanth wrote:
Tires are new.
I’ll check the other.

Checking the tires involves getting them properly inflated for the load they are actually carrying.

Load the coach as you normally would for any trip and go to the CAT Scale. Take the results to the tire manufacturers load inflation table. Use these numbers to properly inflate each tire. DO NOT merely inflate to the max psi shown on the sidewalls and IGNORE the inflation stickers on the inside of the drivers side door.

When the front tires are overinflated you reduce the contact patch and the steering becomes "loosey goosey" not to mention very stiff and rough. The rear duals will take a different number. Any decent Class C should have two finger steering including when large trucks roar by or on windy days.

I have a 2012, 24' Nexus Phantom on the E-350 chassis with the V-10 andh a GVWR of 11,500#. I run at or near that max on every trip and my fronts are typically aired up to 60 psi with the rears at 65. I can literally take my hands off of the wheel {yes, I keep my fingers poised to retake control} and the coach will track like it is on rails. I often tow a 6 X 10' {8' tall} cargo trailer loaded up to 2,600 and the steering is just as smooth with it as without it.

The other excellent advice offered above is to get a proper alignment and you will likely need to increase the caster especially on the passenger side. As noted do not start throwing money searching for a solution for which there is no kn own problem {the government does this a lot... but I digress}. I bought our coach used with just 6,205 miles on it and unless the original owners had it realigned which I doubt, the only alignment that I know it has had was the last stop on the production line at the Nexus factory nearly 9 years ago.

We have put 60,000+ trouble free miles on the coach over the last 7+ years and yes we have hit every pothole from San Diego to Maine. I run nothing but Michelin's finest LT tires and other than one blowout on a 5.5 year old tire {my bad - replace your tires at 5 years folks} they have performed well. Before every trip I stop by Discount tire and have them inflated for the load they will carry {as this can vary} and inspected, they check tread depth and look for any visible issues. The service if free but please folks, tip these guys a couple of bucks.

At 33,000 miles I replaced the original shocks with heavy duty Bilstein's and the improvement was huge. When I started towing the heavier trailer I added AirLift 5K# air bags to deal with the extra tongue weight and level the trailer. Both of these improvements have worked very well.

As always... Opinions and YMMV.

:C

Ford invented the phrase "Keeping it between the ditches!".
A lot of info on here about poor balance- light frontend and steering modifications.