What Product To Brush On Rusty Metal, Suggestions Please

[ron_dittmer]

The under side (pavement side) of our entry step has surface rust that is not bad yet, not flaking rust, not like barnacles. I'd like to brush on a good long-lasting product that is easy to apply. I have used POR-15 on another vehicle which works great but the multi-step process is more than I want to do here given the small, confined area I will work in. I could brush on a few layers of Rust-OLeum rusty metal primer, thinned out for improved penetration, but wonder if there is a better one-step product that I can by at a local retail store.

Any suggestions?

[super_camper]

ron.dittmer wrote:

super_camper wrote:

ron.dittmer wrote:
First I want to say "Thanks" for all the replies. You have provided me some options of which I will Google-research.

I have used naval jelly 35 years ago on a car as a rust conversion, and in more recent years I have used CLR, Lime Away, ZEP, and muriatic acid for actual rust removal. It is best to knock off all loose rust beforehand for best results. Muriatic acid is most aggressive, quite the miracle product in removing rust fast and completely, but extreme caution is required in handling and ventilation. This product dissolves concrete. It disoloves bad rust in an hour or two. Some wire brushing might be needed along the way pending. I bought a huge light weight plastic pan for mixing concrete as a means to submerge large metal parts in muriatic acid. The beauty of muriatic acid is that you can dilute the acid with water to get gallons of effective solution. The acid is very cheap per gallon as well. When done, simply rinse with cold water and dry for perfect stripped-down metal, ready for priming. But in this case of mine today, I am limited to brush-on given I am working on the vehicle from below.

Muriatic acid is sold in hardware and home improvement stores. It must be used outdoors. Not even in an open garage unless you have a huge fan blowing in fresh air.

Thanks Again!

Just be sure to dispose of it properly, large quantities can take some effort to neutralize.

Good Point.

I believe it is safe enough to put down a drain with plenty of running water, but given we live with a septic tank and an active sewage treatment system at home (called a Multi-flo), I just spill it on the lawn and spray it down with water afterward. It doesn't take that much extra water to neutralize it in the lawn. Just basically wash it into the soil. Time with exposure to air neutralizes it too. As powerful as it is, it sure seems to be environmentally friendly. It seems to be a very strong version of the kitchen product called CLR.

Muriatic acid is not safe to drain with running water!!! Please do not do this!!!

You can neutralize it with sodium bicarbonate but the best way to dispose of it is to drop it off at a licensed facility that can deal with it properly.

[jake2250]

OSPHO

[ron_dittmer]

super_camper wrote:

ron.dittmer wrote:
First I want to say "Thanks" for all the replies. You have provided me some options of which I will Google-research.

I have used naval jelly 35 years ago on a car as a rust conversion, and in more recent years I have used CLR, Lime Away, ZEP, and muriatic acid for actual rust removal. It is best to knock off all loose rust beforehand for best results. Muriatic acid is most aggressive, quite the miracle product in removing rust fast and completely, but extreme caution is required in handling and ventilation. This product dissolves concrete. It disoloves bad rust in an hour or two. Some wire brushing might be needed along the way pending. I bought a huge light weight plastic pan for mixing concrete as a means to submerge large metal parts in muriatic acid. The beauty of muriatic acid is that you can dilute the acid with water to get gallons of effective solution. The acid is very cheap per gallon as well. When done, simply rinse with cold water and dry for perfect stripped-down metal, ready for priming. But in this case of mine today, I am limited to brush-on given I am working on the vehicle from below.

Muriatic acid is sold in hardware and home improvement stores. It must be used outdoors. Not even in an open garage unless you have a huge fan blowing in fresh air.

Thanks Again!

Just be sure to dispose of it properly, large quantities can take some effort to neutralize.

Good Point.

I believe it is safe enough to put down a drain with plenty of running water, but given we live with a septic tank and an active sewage treatment system at home (called a Multi-flo), I just spill it on the lawn and spray it down with water afterward. It doesn't take that much extra water to neutralize it in the lawn. Just basically wash it into the soil. Time with exposure to air neutralizes it too. As powerful as it is, it sure seems to be environmentally friendly. It seems to be a very strong version of the kitchen product called CLR.

[super_camper]

ron.dittmer wrote:
First I want to say "Thanks" for all the replies. You have provided me some options of which I will Google-research.

I have used naval jelly 35 years ago on a car as a rust conversion, and in more recent years I have used CLR, Lime Away, ZEP, and muriatic acid for actual rust removal. It is best to knock off all loose rust beforehand for best results. Muriatic acid is most aggressive, quite the miracle product in removing rust fast and completely, but extreme caution is required in handling and ventilation. This product dissolves concrete. It disoloves bad rust in an hour or two. Some wire brushing might be needed along the way pending. I bought a huge light weight plastic pan for mixing concrete as a means to submerge large metal parts in muriatic acid. The beauty of muriatic acid is that you can dilute the acid with water to get gallons of effective solution. The acid is very cheap per gallon as well. When done, simply rinse with cold water and dry for perfect stripped-down metal, ready for priming. But in this case of mine today, I am limited to brush-on given I am working on the vehicle from below.

Muriatic acid is sold in hardware and home improvement stores. It must be used outdoors. Not even in an open garage unless you have a huge fan blowing in fresh air.

Thanks Again!

Just be sure to dispose of it properly, large quantities can take some effort to neutralize.

[ron_dittmer]

First I want to say "Thanks" for all the replies. You have provided me some options of which I will Google-research.

I have used naval jelly 35 years ago on a car as a rust conversion, and in more recent years I have used CLR, Lime Away, ZEP, and muriatic acid for actual rust removal. It is best to knock off all loose rust beforehand for best results. Muriatic acid is most aggressive, quite the miracle product in removing rust fast and completely, but extreme caution is required in handling and ventilation. This product dissolves concrete. It disoloves bad rust in an hour or two. Some wire brushing might be needed along the way pending. I bought a huge light weight plastic pan for mixing concrete as a means to submerge large metal parts in muriatic acid. The beauty of muriatic acid is that you can dilute the acid with water to get gallons of effective solution. The acid is very cheap per gallon as well. When done, simply rinse with cold water and dry for perfect stripped-down metal, ready for priming. But in this case of mine today, I am limited to brush-on given I am working on the vehicle from below.

Muriatic acid is sold in hardware and home improvement stores. It must be used outdoors. Not even in an open garage unless you have a huge fan blowing in fresh air.

Thanks Again!

[DaHose]

POR-15 actually likes a little rust on the surface, but is UV sensitive. I would wash, hit it with a stainless brush, wipe with acetone and brush on the POR-15. Then top coat with a spray paint.

Jose

[mobilefleet]

ospho. I am using it on a class c frame rebuild now and it works great

[Gjac]

I used Ospho on a boat trailer then painted with Ace Hardware Rust Stop paint, but for my rusty steps I used black Rust-Oleum paint. They are 18 years old.

[roamermatt]

I have used a product called EvapoRust with great success. It works amazingly well and is billed as "nontoxic". It is available at major auto parts stores, including O'Reilly.

That said, I used it to treat the insides of a small motorcycle gas tank, where the metal was immersed in the chemical for several hours. Not sure how it would work as a "brush on" treatment. But I suppose you could immerse your step in a pan or something.

[mlts22]

I'd check Amazon reviews. I've used one product (Ospho?) that was a decent primer, and used phosphoric acid to turn rust into a more stable compound. Then added a paint on top of that. All this after a good brushing, cleaning and letting the surface air-dry for a while.

[Ivylog]

All of these products use Phosphoric acid so even Coke would work.

[bighatnohorse]

If you Google for: naval jelly
You'll find quite a few products. Amazon has ratings.

[the_bear_II]

Most rust converters will do the job. Eastwood is good and there is a 3M product. You can find it at auto and marine supply stores. I've used rust converters off an on for over 20 years. Always had good results.

Be sure to prime and paint after the converter dries otherwise the rust will come back.

[BuckBarker]

When I was into classic cars I would use the Eastwood product. It's as simple as brushing off the loose rust then coat with the rust converter, then the final top coat such as Rust-Oleum. This stuff is bulletproof and will last forever.