What roof sealant to have on hand Winne

[luberhill]

Ok all the heavy rubber sealant looks good on my A Vista 26he. But I’d like to have some on hand for both the roof and the corner trim pcs
I assume some type of caulk for the corners and Doctor or whatever it’s called for the roof ?
Winnebago said they use Manus-Bond ????
Thx

[Mile_High]

Bruce Brown wrote:

Mile High wrote:
It's not a leak issue, but I'll argue with Bruce on that until I pass this planet 🙂 It actually can't leak through there if the weep holes below are clear. The seal is a mechanical adhesion issue that keeps the roof flap sealed to the awning rail. If it is allowed to come loose, the wind can get under it and it will peel your roof back.

I you can push back on the fiberglass and it separates away from the awning rail, the sealant has failed and needs to be replaced. The sealant adhears the the fiberglass flap to the awning rail as shown in the diagram. There is no sealant behind that flap.

Our friends was a 2000 Adventurer. Didn't you say Winnie had changed the design a few years back to the current way? I honestly don't remember, but it seems I read that somewhere? Then again I'm old, so the memory isn't what it once was! :B

And on a side note, if the roof peels back I'm pretty sure it would create a leakage issue. :B :B

Definately a leak problem after the roof blows off or peels back, I agree 🙂 🙂

I visited the factory this year and as it was explained to me, that wall to roof interlock and roof cove seal has been used for better than 50 years on all models. If the roof gets cut short or sloppy, it can be an issue and that may have contributed to some model years that had some consistent problems, but regardless, if it gets neglected it will ruin your day in a cross wind.

2018 was the first year they have ever used a rubber roof as I saw on the production line, on their entry level Intent Class A and Outback Class C to bring the costs down.

[Bruce_Brown]

luberhill wrote:

Bruce Brown wrote:
There are different grades of Eternabond. I'm not sure what that stuff was in the video but it didn't look like any Eternabond I've ever used. I used Eternabond on my TT and it worked great. A TT will have a lot more movement than a motorhome.

But hey, it's your deal, do what you want to do.

What kind of roof is on your pusher

Ours has a BriteTek roof. This our 3rd Newmar, all 3 with the same roof design. The first one came home in 1999. When we ordered our current MH fiberglass was an option, based one our history with BriteTek we choose to go the route again. If we were buying again today I'd take another BriteTek roof in a heartbeat.

Our TT had an EPDM rubber roof. While it was functional I'm not a big fan of a true EPDM roof. The main reason it's used is the same reason I choose it when I rebuilt the TT, it was cheap and easy to install.

[Bruce_Brown]

Mile High wrote:
It's not a leak issue, but I'll argue with Bruce on that until I pass this planet 🙂 It actually can't leak through there if the weep holes below are clear. The seal is a mechanical adhesion issue that keeps the roof flap sealed to the awning rail. If it is allowed to come loose, the wind can get under it and it will peel your roof back.

I you can push back on the fiberglass and it separates away from the awning rail, the sealant has failed and needs to be replaced. The sealant adhears the the fiberglass flap to the awning rail as shown in the diagram. There is no sealant behind that flap.

Our friends was a 2000 Adventurer. Didn't you say Winnie had changed the design a few years back to the current way? I honestly don't remember, but it seems I read that somewhere? Then again I'm old, so the memory isn't what it once was! :B

And on a side note, if the roof peels back I'm pretty sure it would create a leakage issue. :B :B

[luberhill]

Bruce Brown wrote:
There are different grades of Eternabond. I'm not sure what that stuff was in the video but it didn't look like any Eternabond I've ever used. I used Eternabond on my TT and it worked great. A TT will have a lot more movement than a motorhome.

But hey, it's your deal, do what you want to do.

What kind of roof is on your pusher

[luberhill]

Bruce Brown wrote:
There are different grades of Eternabond. I'm not sure what that stuff was in the video but it didn't look like any Eternabond I've ever used. I used Eternabond on my TT and it worked great. A TT will have a lot more movement than a motorhome.

But hey, it's your deal, do what you want to do.

No I don't know this just came up while I was trying to see what it looked like

[Bruce_Brown]

There are different grades of Eternabond. I'm not sure what that stuff was in the video but it didn't look like any Eternabond I've ever used. I used Eternabond on my TT and it worked great. A TT will have a lot more movement than a motorhome.

But hey, it's your deal, do what you want to do.

[luberhill]

John Wayne wrote:
Do like Bruce Brown said use Eternabond tape on the side roof seal and the cap to roof seal and you won't have to worry about it for year to come.

Hummm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kkny6TJaGnA

[luberhill]

Mile High wrote:
It's not a leak issue, but I'll argue with Bruce on that until I pass this planet 🙂 It actually can't leak through there if the weep holes below are clear. The seal is a mechanical adhesion issue that keeps the roof flap sealed to the awning rail. If it is allowed to come loose, the wind can get under it and it will peel your roof back.

I you can push back on the fiberglass and it separates away from the awning rail, the sealant has failed and needs to be replaced. The sealant adhears the the fiberglass flap to the awning rail as shown in the diagram. There is no sealant behind that flap.

I don’t see the weep hole ?? The rail looks solid..
But even so the tape idea would work to stop air too right

[luberhill]

John Wayne wrote:
Do like Bruce Brown said use Eternabond tape on the side roof seal and the cap to roof seal and you won't have to worry about it for year to come.

So only one year it’s good for ???

[luberhill]

Bruce Brown wrote:
Depending on what color you're dealing with, if it didn't look silly you could Etrnabond it and be done with it. That's what we ended up doing on our friends Winne when nothing else would hold. Etrnabond ended the leaking once and for all.

This doesn’t leak and Winne told me the caulk is more to stop air than water, they said there are weep holes if any water gets in
Now it’s white, what is Earthbond

[luberhill]

10forty2 wrote:
Dicor makes both the self-leveling for flat surfaces and a non-self-leveling for corners and vertical surfaces. It's good stuff. I'd recommend having one of each on hand....but yes, it does have a shelf life and it will go bad if you don't use it for a long time.

But it on eBay ??

[Mile_High]

Up to you, but I don't think I would use the tape on a 2013 unless it's already pretty rough on the outside. If it truly needs resealed, once it's done it should last for years. Mine has not needed it yet except in two spots.

[John_Wayne]

Do like Bruce Brown said use Eternabond tape on the side roof seal and the cap to roof seal and you won't have to worry about it for year to come.

[Mile_High]

It's not a leak issue, but I'll argue with Bruce on that until I pass this planet 🙂 It actually can't leak through there if the weep holes below are clear. The seal is a mechanical adhesion issue that keeps the roof flap sealed to the awning rail. If it is allowed to come loose, the wind can get under it and it will peel your roof back.

I you can push back on the fiberglass and it separates away from the awning rail, the sealant has failed and needs to be replaced. The sealant adhears the the fiberglass flap to the awning rail as shown in the diagram. There is no sealant behind that flap.