Where to begin

Below are two checklists I use...One prior to each trip, and the other is my Purchase inspection checklist. It would be a good way for you to asses the situation on your RV. Some of the items may or may not apply. If you go through all of these items you can make a list of what works and what doesn't work on your RV. Then create an estimate on how much it will cost to fix each item. I like the above recommendation about multiplying by 1.5x as a buffer. Then you will have a total amount. Then ask yourself...."Can I just go and buy something newer that doesn't have all these problems and pay the same amount?" Your RV right now might only be worth $2000-$5000. If you put $20,000 into fixing it, it will probably be worth $10,000-$15,000 to someone else. Keep that in mind.

I've learned that RV mechanics/repairs are EXPENSIVE, they take a LONG TIME (usually backed up), and most RV mechanics aren't as good as you'd like (....and some are downright criminals). Even though I'm a busy guy, I've learned to embrace the fact that *I* need to do much of the repairs on my RVs myself. These forums are great for advice on how to fix things, and there are youtube videos on just about everything. Instead of paying my RV shop $100/hr, I do it myself. If it takes me twice as long to do it, it's like paying myself $50/hr to do the work myself. I have also gained a deeper understanding as to how everything works on my RVs and a deeper appreciation for things that work. If you are sending your RV out for all repairs all the time, it will cost you a fortune.

If your expected renovation cost is too much, you might be better off saving the money, donating/selling the RV, and then using the money to RENT a working RV the next 5-10 times you want to go RVing (...and save yourself all the headaches, hours spent on fixing it, cost to insure it, cost to store it, etc).

Hope that helps!

Good luck!
-Chris

Prior to Trip Departure Checklist:
o Check the propane level to make sure it is near full
o Check that the refrigerator/freezer is working
o Check that the stove and microwave oven are functioning
o Check that the AC and the furnace are functioning properly
o Check that the hot water heater is working
o Check that the carbon monoxide detector and LP Gas detector green
indicator light is showing them to be functioning (note: House battery
switch by entry door must be in the ON position in order for these to
function)
o Test the smoke detector to make sure it is functioning
o Make sure the fire extinguisher is properly charged
o Check that the generator is functioning properly
o Verify that the engine alternator is properly charging all batteries (engine and house batteries) when engine is running
o Verify that the house batteries are charging if the generator is on or the RV is plugged into shore power
o Verify that the 120v power is working when the generator is on or the RV is plugged into shore power
o Check the oil level, water level in the radiator, water level in the windshield wipers, brake fluid level
o Verify that the RV has a full tank of gas
o Verify that the tire pressure is correct for all 6 tires and the spare (70-80psi)
o Check the tires for cracks, tread, and uneven wear
o Verify that the black and gray waste tanks are near empty
o Put 1 cup of gel detergent down the kitchen sink and toilet (keeps level sensors clean)
o Verify that there is fresh water in the holding tank
o Check all running lights, brake lights, turn signals, emergency lights
o Check headlight high beams and low beams
o Check that the horn is working
o Check that the radio is working


Here is another checklist I use when inspecting an RV prior to purchase:

Exterior:
Check the Manifold bolts! (…expensive to fix)
Inspect body for damage
Check all window seals
Check tread and date on tires. Look for cracking on sidewall and inside the tread
Test the waste tank sensor levels
Look underneath rig for rust, holes, etc
Look at rotors and brakes if possible
Go on roof and inspect seals, separation, soft spots
Look in engine compartment
Check battery voltage on chassis
Check battery voltage on house battery
Start engine and listen
Check battery voltages with alternator on (listen for solenoid click)
Check battery voltage with generator/shore on
Check headlights, running lights
Check turn signals, hazards
Check all exterior misc lights
Check horn
Inspect battery bank housing (need more support?)
Open/close slide-outs. Look at seals and topper
Open awning and look for rips
Check drainage valves
Test outdoor shower
Check tire pressure
Is there a spare tire? Tire iron?
Inspect all external storage compartments
Inspect generator
Inspect exterior entertainment system if applicable

Interior: Front
Check the dash for cool AC on all vent settings
Check the dash for heat on all vent settings
Check radio
Test door locking mechanism
Check power windows, wipers, water, and mirrors
Check backup camera
Open up doghouse (interior engine cover) and take a look/listen

Interior: House
Test side door locking mechanism
Check gauge control panel
Turn on/light LP (refrigerator, water heater, furnace)
Check that refrigerator operates on propane
Check cushions (open them) and under cab cushions for mold
Check all interior lights
Inspect converter panel
Turn on generator
Check microwave
Test TV and DVD
Test roof AC
Run roof AC and microwave at the same time with generator on
Check all electrical outlets
Check that refrigerator operates on generator/shore
Test furnace for heat, smell, air volume through each vent
Run kitchen sink and check under cabinet for leaks
Run bathroom sink and check under cabinet for leaks
Check for hot water from all valves
Inspect area under cabinets (open up/remove panel)
Look in all cabinets at ceiling for leaks
Test ceiling fans
Inspect all compartments
Check all windows and blinds for functionality
Check stove burners and oven
Check solar if applicable
Check inverter if applicable
Test gray/black tank sensors (ask to inspect when waste tanks are empty, but full tank of fresh water so I can test)

Take test ride on highway
Under load does AC/Heat still come out front vents?
Does the RV pull to one side when driving? When braking?

It Depends on your RV body, auto electric, mechanical, plumbing and RV appliance troubleshooting and repair/replacement skills, work space available, and time from start to completion/camping touring ready status, and most of all total cost. Bear in mind that an old Class C's market value will not be more than $5000, regardless of how much money you spend on it. Buyers can't get loans on old Class C's. Old class C's usually need to have radial tire wheels and tires installed, can't get 800x16.5 bias belted tires. Tires need to be changed every 5 or 6 years. You might be better off selling the rig for whatever you can get and consider buying a camping/touring ready motorhome if you and your family really want one and will use it frequently. (Don't ask how I learned this.)

Since you provided very little info about the condition of the moho other than apparently the engine starts and runs....

Before spending more than $100 on it. Assess whether it's a gem, a diamond in the rough, or a mushy leaky basket case.
If it's #2, proceed with caution, #3, hopefully you can find someone to haul it away or drive it away, or part out the drivetrain and stuff the rest in a dumpster/haul the chassis to a scrap yard.

Another word of caution, if you need to take it to the "mechanic" for a "once over", an almost 40 year old van parked at the cabin for 10 years may not be financially viable for you, even if it's in "ok" shape.

I'd go to the camper armed with an air compressor, extension cord (to plug into the cabins power, a good battery, bottle of propane and a garden hose.
Make sure there's air in all the tires, trans fluid looks ok, engine is not low on oil and coolant is full and brakes don't go to the floor or don't stick. If all that checks out, fire it up and take it for a hot lap and see if it appears roadworthy.
If it's not, the rest of the RV doesn't really matter.
If it is and it drives good and doesn't come back with a stuck brake or fluid pouring out or overheating, move on to the house.
Put a battery in it and see if all the lights and water pump work.
Fill the water tank, see if it pumps and check for leaks.
Fire up the fridge, stove and furnace.
Check for rain leaks (presuming there isn't obvious water damage. If there is assess that before worrying about the test drive).

After you've done all that and compiled a list of everything that does or will need work, put a $ figure to each item, however you'd handle fixing that item. Add up the numbers, multiply by 1.5 if it sounds reasonable to you. See if that number sounds reasonable and then decide whether to call your mechanic and tire shop or a scrap yard.

Good luck!

MDKMDK wrote:
To start, try giving people more info as to the year/make/model/style of the class C motorhome/coach part, not just the chassis info. There were probably more than a few class C motorhomes built on a 1983 Chevy chassis.

That makes a difference? Do you have different recommendations to fix leaks and make sure the water, furnace, fridge and stove work based on brand or model?

Here is another opinion (From owning a 1980 Class C). 1 New Tires AND Brake system check. You're usually safe it wont go, never save if it won't stop. 2) Roof - clean and seal the roof even if it looks good. Once it starts moving it will flex and all that dry seal will crack. 3)Electrical System 4) Do whatever you want with the house, don't think you can only use RV stuff, make it your own to enjoy. 5) ENJOY IT!

Where has it been stored, inside or outside ? If out in the sun, expect the caulk to be dried out.
Try your best to determine if it has water intrusion .
Check to see if the floor is solid as you enter the rv, that has a history of being a leak source. You'll be able to smell and see mold.

You need to open things up to look for evidence of rodents and damage from. You could have electrical issues from chewed wires, a common problem.

smarty wrote:
I would advise you to create a budget for your "project". A rig that old has, essentially, zero value. How much are you willing to invest in the rig to get it completely road worthy? Know this before you start. IMHO.

Figure $1500 just for tires. Any mechanical problems can add a few thousand more.

Biggest question is the house sound and dry. If it's leaked and rotted out, it makes zero financial sense (sentimental value maybe).

I would advise you to create a budget for your "project". A rig that old has, essentially, zero value. How much are you willing to invest in the rig to get it completely road worthy? Know this before you start. IMHO.

To start, try giving people more info as to the year/make/model/style of the class C motorhome/coach part, not just the chassis info. There were probably more than a few class C motorhomes built on a 1983 Chevy chassis.

Old class C tend to leak in the upper bunk area first. You also want to check around for mold and decay from all those years of sitting. And also establish a budget (versus considering it a labor of love). The cost goes up significantly depending on your DIY skills.

I think your plan is a good one: find out what it'll take to get the mechanics in order to be able to drive it, and then from there you can start on the house part, if it makes sense.