Electrical management system

[phxchica]

Total newbie here with a 2016 Jayco Greyhawk. We intend to do a lot of cross country travel staying at various campgrounds. Do I need an EMS?. Wanting to be able to use this motor home a lot for the next 20 years!

[jplante4]

I installed my Progressive after the transfer switch so it covers thee generator output as well. We had a hot ground at one place and I was surprised that the Progressive didn't complain about that.

[SoundGuy]

kastgire wrote:
Are these a good idea for a travel trailer? I don't have a ton of electronic stuff in mine, the fridge, 12 volt TV, DVD player, water pump, and the converter......

Bobbo wrote:
They are a very good idea for ANY RV that plugs into power anywhere but at your house. All of the devices you mentioned above except for the water pump have electronic control boards. However, if the TV is truly 12v, and not plugged into 120v in any way, it is probably safe.

What in the world are you talking about?! :E If anything, protecting your trailer with an EMS when plugged in at home is FAR more important than when camping simply because the total amount of time it's plugged in at home is FAR greater than it is when camping. Don't kid yourself, power line anomalies happen ALL the time, particularly spikes and surges that can damage a variety of electrical devices, camping or not.

[Bobbo]

kastagire wrote:
Ok, so are the EMS systems basically like a UPS (uninterruptible power source) system for computers? Basically the incoming power charges and battery and passes through the extra, and in the event the power dips the EMS system uses battery to make up the difference?

No, not at all.

The EMS monitors the power, and if the power is not good, it kills all 120v power to your RV. When the good power is restored, it waits a period (15 seconds or 136 seconds) and allows power back into the RV.

kastgire wrote:
Are these a good idea for a travel trailer? I don't have a ton of electronic stuff in mine, the fridge, 12 volt TV, DVD player, water pump, and the converter......

They are a very good idea for ANY RV that plugs into power anywhere but at your house. All of the devices you mentioned above except for the water pump have electronic control boards. However, if the TV is truly 12v, and not plugged into 120v in any way, it is probably safe.

[kastagire]

Are these a good idea for a travel trailer? I don't have a ton of electronic stuff in mine, the fridge, 12 volt TV, DVD player, water pump, and the converter......

[kastagire]

Ok, so are the EMS systems basically like a UPS (uninterruptible power source) system for computers? Basically the incoming power charges and battery and passes through the extra, and in the event the power dips the EMS system uses battery to make up the difference?

[SoundGuy]

wa8yxm wrote:
Energery Management System has two meansing.. One is the Progressive Industries EMS units, which have been covered above.. The only comment I will make is the delay control, 15 seconds by default, but you can make it 136.... Make it 136

IF you're using A/C, otherwise a 15" delay is much more convenient to deal with and it's plenty of time for the EMS to analyze the incoming source voltage for any potential errors. Being able to select either is the reason I chose a Progressive hard wire model with this feature as the portable version is fixed at 136". However, having to open the box to remove the delay jumper is a PITA so I removed the jumper and wired an SPST switch across the jumper contacts so I can select a 15" or 136" delay simply by throwing the switch.

[wa8yxm]

Energery Management System has two meansing.. One is the Progressive Industries EMS units, which have been covered above.. The only comment I will make is the delay control, 15 seconds by default, but you can make it 136.... Make it 136

The reason: Air Conditioners and resendital fridges and Ice Makers (the stand alone type) have compressors, when these shut off for any reason, they need to stay off for at least 180 seconds if possible or as close to it as possible.

You get a one second power fail (happens a lot) Everybody's comompressor stops, Power is restored, Now all the compressors are trying to re-start, with a full head of pressure,, You are looking at a "locked rotor" current draw (Many amps) voltage drops current flows BIG time, Finally the circuit breakers (Thermal) in the motors trip, now that flowing current HAMMERS into the lines,,, Voltage spikes big time.. (During this your 136 second delay has you "off line" and thus protected) now first the locked rotor start damaged every compressor (Save yours) and the voltage spike is no fun for any of your electronics.

Finally after 2 or 3 tries (usually around 90 seconds total) things settle down, Just to be safe you wait another 46 seconds. and your compressor starts with very little, if any, head pressure left.. Mine (At 172) has even less. But I still recommend the PI unit over what I have.

The other EMS, (Intelletec is such a device) is designed to help insure you only hit 29 amps on a 30 amp site... YOu do NOT need that one.. It is a convience only.. But you DO need the PI one.

Saved me a lot of headache here cause we have had several of those 1 second failures and a couple of major ones (hours) and again when things come back on line, even if it's been hours... There is a bit of a rollar coaster ride on voltage for the first 60 seconds or so,.

[SoundGuy]

Bumpyroad wrote:
my 30 amp plug in surge guard has a key to bypass it leaving the surge protection intact. no need to unplug it.

SoundGuy wrote:
Specifically which make & model? Surge Guard is a TRC brand name product and I owned the earliest version #34730 portable 30 amp version and it sure didn't offer any way to bypass it, nor I think did the later #34730-001 which replaced it, nor as far as I can tell does the current #34830. Which Surge Guard are you referring to? :h

Bumpyroad wrote:
will check the next time that I have access. mine is about 15? years old. came with a key to bypass it.
but if the current ones don't have it, the exact identity is sort of a moot point isn't it?

"Moot" to me for sure. 😉 If yours is indeed a Surge Guard then it's a TRC product and AFAIK no current models offer a "bypass" function ... perhaps originally they did, but I doubt it. If it's not a TRC then it's not a Surge Guard nor is it a Progressive Industries as none of their products that do feature a bypass function are key controlled. Either way, I know of no current surge protector / EMS devices that offer a key controlled bypass so as it relates to the OP asking for recommendations as to which currently available EMS to choose whether your 15 yr old "surge guard" has a key controlled bypass is irrelevant.

[Bumpyroad]

SoundGuy wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:
my 30 amp plug in surge guard has a key to bypass it leaving the surge protection intact. no need to unplug it.

Specifically which make & model? Surge Guard is a TRC brand name product and I owned the earliest version #34730 portable 30 amp version and it sure didn't offer any way to bypass it, nor I think did the later #34730-001 which replaced it, nor as far as I can tell does the current #34830. Which Surge Guard are you referring to? :h

will check the next time that I have access. mine is about 15? years old. came with a key to bypass it.
but if the current ones don't have it, the exact identity is sort of a moot point isn't it?
bumpy

[catkins]

I own a Progressive 50 Amp portable. I never plug in without out. Not only do Progressives protect against high power, it also cuts off for low power. It will automatically reset and allow power in once the issue has resolved as power fluctuations will. Power can damage electronics and appliances over the long haul and power surges can kill them immediately. Modern units are chock full of sensitive electronics.

Good management units are costly but one power surge will cost many times more with the losses and inconvenience. Every year in our travels, we hit at least two campgrounds where it cuts off power. Worth it.

I had a unit fail because I left it uncovered in a NW downpour and moisture got inside. Unit says moisture resistant............ Called Progressive, sent it in and they repaired for free and sent back. I am a happy customer for as long as I can RV.

[SoundGuy]

Bumpyroad wrote:
my 30 amp plug in surge guard has a key to bypass it leaving the surge protection intact. no need to unplug it.

Specifically which make & model? Surge Guard is a TRC brand name product and I owned the earliest version #34730 portable 30 amp version and it sure didn't offer any way to bypass it, nor I think did the later #34730-001 which replaced it, nor as far as I can tell does the current #34830. Which Surge Guard are you referring to? :h

[tnrv_er]

Guys thank-you for the info very informative.

[Bumpyroad]

my 30 amp plug in surge guard has a key to bypass it leaving the surge protection intact.
no need to unplug it.
bumpy

[SoundGuy]

Bumpyroad wrote:
I would not get a hard wired one unless it had a bypass feature.

Progressive Industries hard wire EMS units do have a bypass but it seems no one understands how "bypass" works or is willing to read the Operating & Installation Guide so they do understand. Putting the unit in bypass does disable most of the unit but does not disable surge protection which is always active as long as the unit is passing power.

Quote - "Bypass switch: This switch is located on the remote panel, and allows the user to bypass the computer circuit in the EMS in the event of computer failure, thus allowing source power into the RV. This does not disable the surge protection portion of the EMS."

Obviously if one wants to "bypass" a Progressive portable EMS all they have to do is unplug it, but I can also with my hard wire version as I wired it in using 30 amp RV connectors.

[Bumpyroad]

I would not get a hard wired one unless it had a bypass feature. also expect to pay $250-$350 for one, not a $90 special. some may claim that the $90 one will do the same thing as the $250 one, that is incorrect.
bumpy