Going to re-seal my roof ?

Your question is pretty much unanswerable since no one knows the extent of the leak, how much water was introduced into the ceiling cavity, and if you have, indeed, sealed all of it up.
One thing is certain, mold and fungus will not grow without the correct moisture level or humidity. If you can put some ventilation into the cabin, you should be able to lower the moisture level, no matter how high it was. Kill off any visible mold with diluted bleach water and continue to observe.
Since there was a known leak, this might be a good candidate for a pressurized leak test. The pressure test will turn up even a pinhole leak.

Anyone have any opinions ? I am worried I am in big trouble because the water is now trapped inside somewhere because I sealed the leak ? Will it start to mold like crazy now ?

Or is his not that big of a deal and I caught it in time ?

Update -

So I went to my camper, sealed almost everything with Eternabond. I found a leak, about 4 inches across, 1 inch or less tall. Right where the roof meets the siding.

Here are pics from the inside, think I will be ok ? or do I need to remove the inside panels ? it felt dry to the touch

Beaker wrote:

As mentioned two biggest is getting the surface clean and rolling it out good.

In case you missed it, here it is again.

As mentioned two biggest is getting the surface clean and rolling it out good.

I did my roof last week and accidently cracked the cover over the bathroom fan. No problem, eternabond. NOT!!! I was sure that the vent was fiberglass, which eternabond is suppose to stick to. Would not stick at all. Would have been easier to get it to stick to a melting ice cube.

Anyone know what material might have been used for that vent?

The vent cover is probably a poly-acrylic material and, if it's been deteriorating in the sun, it may have a real heavy layer of oxidation on the surface.
FWIW, I patched my Daughter's snow boots with Eternabond. I didn't clean the boots before applying the tape so it eventually lifted along one side.

As mentioned two biggest is getting the surface clean and rolling it out good.

In case you missed it, here it is again.

As mentioned two biggest is getting the surface clean and rolling it out good.

I did my roof last week and accidently cracked the cover over the bathroom fan. No problem, eternabond. NOT!!! I was sure that the vent was fiberglass, which eternabond is suppose to stick to. Would not stick at all. Would have been easier to get it to stick to a melting ice cube.

Anyone know what material might have been used for that vent?

On my brand new TT I used eternabond tape along the front seam and the vents. I just bought an 8 year old 35 foot toy hauler. The seams had been resealed over old cracked seams by previous owner(s). I was going to use eternabond but realized the base seal was in pretty bad shape so instead scraped the old seal, cleaned it up and resealed. Might do eternabond next year over that.

My calculations.
1/2 tube per vents
3/4 tube for skylight.
1 tube for front seam (actually 2 seams)
1/2 tube for rear seam
1/2 tube for refer vent
1/2 tube for TV antenna
less for radio antenna

Still have to use non-sag along edge of roof to side of trailer. I've ordered 4 tubes for that.

Happy.Camper wrote:
Thanks. I changed my order to 2" 50' and 4" 50' , a roller, and the eternabond cleaner. All on amazon for a little over $100

I will try a few strips this weekend and see how it goes, hopefully get the whole roof before this winter.

Check out the Eternabond link in my signature for some hints and read the captions since that is where a lot of the info is.

As mentioned two biggest is getting the surface clean and rolling it out good. With a rubber roof you don't want any of the chaulky white residue coming off with the final cleaning since that white stuff will prevent the Eternabond from adhering long term.

Larry

Thanks. I changed my order to 2" 50' and 4" 50' , a roller, and the eternabond cleaner. All on amazon for a little over $100

I will try a few strips this weekend and see how it goes, hopefully get the whole roof before this winter.

I used 2" for the seams on the side. If you plan to seal the front and end caps where it overlaps, you want to step up to 4" or wider. Make sure to clean it well and use a roller to ensure proper adhesion.

This stuff is great, you won't regret it.

Ok, I can still change my order, what thickness should I get ? Is 2" for the whole roof good enough ? Or should I get a few different sizes ?