HELP !!

Since you are new, I'll explain 'bypass' that the posters are telling you about on the water heater. When it is time to winterize, people like to run an RV antifreeze through the plumbing to protect it from plain water left in the lines after attempting to blow them dry with compressed air. Without a 'bypass' valve setup, you would need 6-10 gallons of antifreeze to fill the water heater before the antifreeze continued through the lines on the hot water side of the plumbing. Bypass valves allow you to drain and isolate the water heater so when the antifreeze is pumped through the lines it 'bypasses' the water heater and can protect the hot water side of the plumbing. If the valves are still in the bypass position, the heater may be working but it has no water in it because of the bypass valves (and you get cold water at the hot water faucets). In this case, your heater element may now be burned out (or someone before you did that and neglected to replace it thinking they will just use propane). It's not an expensive part to replace but usually requires access to the rear of the heater (or pulling it out to get to it). You will learn a LOT in the next few months. Don't hesitate to jump on here and ask questions! Something else that will even trip up us long time Rvers is that if you have an 'external shower' in the utility bay, and the hot and cold water valves are on and the showerhead shutoff is closed, cold water can sneak it's way into the hot water side of the system and make the hot water not so hot. We were all there before and someone here will certainly have an answer to any question you will come up with! Happy RVing!

On the fridge,, ID tag is likely inside the lower door.. That will have model

on the water heater, Outside, open the access panel, likely find info inthere, may be hard to spot however

On the inverter.. Track it down and if needed use your phone to "shoot" (photo) the label so you can read it

There are enough differences we can not really tell

As someone said, a mobile RV tech can show you around plan on 2 hours labor charge at the minimum... May not be that much, but plan on at least that much.

For service facilities you might try this site:

http://rvservicereviews.com/Index.asp

Good luck! None of it sounds serious.

Water heater-element might also be covered by hardened sediment, if it has never been flushed. Had one that didn't heat well but as soon as I broke a bunch of sediment off the element, much improved. You can tell if the sediment is from the element as it will come out in somewhat tubular chunks.

Which Dometic?
Are the panel lights ON?
Are you running it on GAS.........15A shore power is marginal due to other AC power demands
IS RV LEVEL.......can cause damage to fridge cooling unit if not level when operating it.
Takes several hours for fridge to cool down.....freezer section FIRST then food compartment.

Water heater.
Look in outside compartment for Brand & Model....info on sticker

Cold water inlet valve. It is a 3 way valve.
With handle pointed same direction as cold water line then water should flow into water heater.
With handle turned 1/4 turn and pointed in same direction as bypass line (line that connects cold water inlet with hot water outlet piping) then water flow is around (bypasses) water heater. In bypass cold water will flow thru/out hot water but not into water heater (check valve in hot out stops backflow into WH Tank when bypassed)
With water supply on..pop open Relief Valve (outside compartment) and check that water flows out.

No water......heater bypassed.....don't turn on water heater w/o water in it!!!!
By turning electric ON you have most likely burnt out the element.
Element NEEDS water to cool it otherwise it burns out

And trying to run everything on 15A shore power will NOT work
Not enough AMPS being supplied

ok Brand of Fridge is a dometic fridge
water heater know idea what brand or model i do know that i located it and there is only one cut off switch on the cold line running into the WH so i do not have a clue how the bypass winterization process would work.
i am on 15 amp shore power now
the battery on the incicater light shows C i am assuming charging?
I do now know the brand of inverter i have on the battery
I think the fridge problem will deal with its self after 24 hours.

a question from the wife though
can you use a powerstrip (i.e.belkin surge protector ) in the rv to charge phones and for a cpap machine etc. ?

Can some one give me the name of a local tech in the area of north alabama cause i dont have a clue who to call. i hope that covered every ones questions.

It might be worth the cost of having a mobile RV tech spend some time with you going over the systems operations again, now that the "heat of the moment" at purchase time is past.

FIRST>..........\\

Provide us with BRAND/MODEL of water heater AND fridge

Next ,,,,
Are you on shore power with AC power or just using trailer battery power


Best generic answers provided by 'donn0128'
1. Breaker tripped, hi limit switch tripped, switch on WH in off position, or, the most likely, the heating element is burned out.
2.Breaker tripped, control board bad, or again most likely, no 12VDC to the refer.

Is the water heater bypassed? If so you will still get watwr flow with nothing going through the tank. Also you may have burnt out the electric element if it was turned on with no water in the tank.

And yes, the fridge will take almost 24hrs to get cold.

Good luck!

Welcome to the scrum.

You need to know that it usually takes hours, maybe a whole day, for the fridge to cool off, and it will cool off faster on lp gas.

It is also possible the water heater is bypassed for winterization, in which case while it would probably fill with water, and heat that water, it wouldn't send warm to the faucet.