Newbie shopping for first tow behind.

Lot's of decisions to make and you'll find some in here who own, or have owned those brand name TT's, 5er's...to help you decide..

I will suggest you stay away from "dry" or "empty" weights, trailer and pin/tongue weights. Do yourself a favor and PLEASE use the trailers GVW...if it's a 5th wheel, use 20% of GVW to get a more realistic pin weight...if a TT, use 10%.....just saying you'll be doing it the right way by doing this.

Also, it would be nice to know what kind of tow vehicle are you going to use? A 1500/150 1/2 ton, a 2500/250 3/4 ton or even up to 1 ton single rear wheel or dually....What tow vehicle you decide to use WILL affect what you purchase to be towed...

Some older campers that have been taken care of, or one owner may be a good purchase...New get's you a warranty for at least a year....Check roof/around windows, floor area for leaks...look inside fridge to see what condition it's in...same for stove top, oven even micro wave/convection unit if there is one....Check tire wear, what tires are on it...look at outside for any damage....I would make sure EVERYTHING works, no leaks in plumbing....If buying used OR NEW, PDI,(walk through), I want to see everything working, A/C, stove, fridge, furnace, and if they run on propane/DC/AC, I want to make sure they work in ALL modes......

I hate to say this but good luck on what you are looking for. RVs are like buying a car; lots of differences in quality and what you get for the price.

I keep looking for something used since you are getting something at a discount from buying a new trailer. just find something that you and your wife will like. you probably need to rely on the salesperson to help you sort out what is out there since we don't know what is available in your area.

have fun.

Reality is condition means more than brand. You can find good rigs in the sub $10k range but it takes more looking. Since you are new, I would suggest any offer be contingent upon an inspection. Pay an RV tech a couple hundred to go over the rig looking for problems.

What are you towing with? Particularly for 5th wheels, pin weight will be a controlling factor and may limit the trailer you can buy.

You definetly want at least one slide out. They make a world of difference in the liveable space. No slides will also limit resale options.

I wouldn't count on new being any less trouble and if it's warranty work, they do it when they feel like it...even if that means the rig isn't ready when you are going on vacation.

How many of you will there be traveling? 30' is fairly large (but not unreasonable) for a first time buyer.

Truck is a 3/4 ton Chevy Diesel SRW, I've already got rails as thats how I haul my gooseneck equipment trailer. For the most part I don't see the truck limiting us other than a Short box is not ideal if we did go with a 5'er. The one used 5er that I really liked already had a Reese sidewinder installed.

I do understand the difference in price has alot to to do with construction and quality, but I'm having a hard time getting my wife to understand that. She seems to think new for the same money as used must mean it is better. Without a somewhat in depth understanding of the brands I'm having a tough time arguing my point.

6.6 Oilburner wrote:
Truck is a 3/4 ton Chevy Diesel SRW, I've already got rails as thats how I haul my gooseneck equipment trailer. For the most part I don't see the truck limiting us other than a Short box is not ideal if we did go with a 5'er. The one used 5er that I really liked already had a Reese sidewinder installed.

I do understand the difference in price has alot to to do with construction and quality, but I'm having a hard time getting my wife to understand that. She seems to think new for the same money as used must mean it is better. Without a somewhat in depth understanding of the brands I'm having a tough time arguing my point.

You have a 2500 Chevy D/A, (all 3/4 ton's are SRW), Depending on the year, you CAN be limited by payload, (RAWR is what most go by)...use to be 9200# GVW but don't know what year your Chevy is...but yeah, all trucks have their limit and it would fall into the line of carrying pin weight in the bed of the truck.

valhalla360 wrote:
Reality is condition means more than brand. You can find good rigs in the sub $10k range but it takes more looking. Since you are new, I would suggest any offer be contingent upon an inspection. Pay an RV tech a couple hundred to go over the rig looking for problems.

What are you towing with? Particularly for 5th wheels, pin weight will be a controlling factor and may limit the trailer you can buy.

You definetly want at least one slide out. They make a world of difference in the liveable space. No slides will also limit resale options.

I wouldn't count on new being any less trouble and if it's warranty work, they do it when they feel like it...even if that means the rig isn't ready when you are going on vacation.

How many of you will there be traveling? 30' is fairly large (but not unreasonable) for a first time buyer.

Its my wife, myself and an almost 2 year old, with the probability of another child in the somewhat near future. And if my friends are any indication kids are begging to drag there friends along eventually. I am ALL about the slide and the open floor space that comes with it. My wife seems to find it unnecessary. There is also the potential for us to park this camper on a piece of family property to use as a camp for weekends we aren't headed for a campground or state park.

NC Hauler wrote:


You have a 2500 Chevy D/A, (all 3/4 ton's are SRW), Depending on the year, you CAN be limited by payload, (RAWR is what most go by)...use to be 9200# GVW but don't know what year your Chevy is...but yeah, all trucks have their limit and it would fall into the line of carrying pin weight in the bed of the truck.

My 07 is 9200lb GVW, I will double check on the pin weights, but nothing we have looked at is over 8k so I don't believe its an issue. As much as I would prefer a 5th wheel for hauling and parking, most of the contenders at this point are

I will not suggest a make or model though I will say many folks like JEEPs with MANUAL 4 wheel drive.. Most of these can be towed 4 down.

And of course most anything can be towed on a full trailer if your tow vehicle has the capacity and you do not mind the hassle.. I like enclosed trailers as they double as "Garage".

I also like towing 4-Down as it is less expensive and the easiest way to tow.


Two paths you can follow:
1: Go to one of the RV-magazine web sites, FMCA (you may need to join) Escapees, Or any RV mag,, Most of them run an annual "What you can tow" list.. Download same and choose from the list.

2: Pick out 2 or 3 or more cars you like (Seems there are always too many choices) and google REMCO TOWING USA

Click on the store link (Do this before you start shopping and take notes)

On the left frame are some questions. year, Make, Model, Engine, Transmission and I think one other (That's what you need to take notes on, what questions they ask)

Enter your suspect vehicles vitals and on the main frame is "Can I tow it"

You will get one of the following replies

You need Braking system and tow bar and lights (This means you can tow it)

You need the basics (Above) Plus a LP-1 Lube Pump (Can tow with modification)
Or Axle lock or Drive Shaft Disconnect (likewsie)

You can tow buit you need to follow a special procedure (I recommend against, too easy to forget special procedure) such as running the engine for 5 minutes and running it through the gears at hook up and every 400 miles or some such.

You can not tow

We do not know if you can tow

I'd choose a "Basic" model if you can.

wa8yxm wrote:
I will not suggest a make or model though I will say many folks like JEEPs with MANUAL 4 wheel drive.. Most of these can be towed 4 down.

And of course most anything can be towed on a full trailer if your tow vehicle has the capacity and you do not mind the hassle.. I like enclosed trailers as they double as "Garage".

I also like towing 4-Down as it is less expensive and the easiest way to tow.


Two paths you can follow:
1: Go to one of the RV-magazine web sites, FMCA (you may need to join) Escapees, Or any RV mag,, Most of them run an annual "What you can tow" list.. Download same and choose from the list.

2: Pick out 2 or 3 or more cars you like (Seems there are always too many choices) and google REMCO TOWING USA

Click on the store link (Do this before you start shopping and take notes)

On the left frame are some questions. year, Make, Model, Engine, Transmission and I think one other (That's what you need to take notes on, what questions they ask)

Enter your suspect vehicles vitals and on the main frame is "Can I tow it"

You will get one of the following replies

You need Braking system and tow bar and lights (This means you can tow it)

You need the basics (Above) Plus a LP-1 Lube Pump (Can tow with modification)
Or Axle lock or Drive Shaft Disconnect (likewsie)

You can tow buit you need to follow a special procedure (I recommend against, too easy to forget special procedure) such as running the engine for 5 minutes and running it through the gears at hook up and every 400 miles or some such.

You can not tow

We do not know if you can tow

I'd choose a "Basic" model if you can.

I do believe the OP is referring to towing a trailer, not a car, could be wrong.

Jim

Jim-Linda wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
I will not suggest a make or model though I will say many folks like JEEPs with MANUAL 4 wheel drive.. Most of these can be towed 4 down.

And of course most anything can be towed on a full trailer if your tow vehicle has the capacity and you do not mind the hassle.. I like enclosed trailers as they double as "Garage".

I also like towing 4-Down as it is less expensive and the easiest way to tow.


Two paths you can follow:
1: Go to one of the RV-magazine web sites, FMCA (you may need to join) Escapees, Or any RV mag,, Most of them run an annual "What you can tow" list.. Download same and choose from the list.

2: Pick out 2 or 3 or more cars you like (Seems there are always too many choices) and google REMCO TOWING USA

Click on the store link (Do this before you start shopping and take notes)

On the left frame are some questions. year, Make, Model, Engine, Transmission and I think one other (That's what you need to take notes on, what questions they ask)

Enter your suspect vehicles vitals and on the main frame is "Can I tow it"

You will get one of the following replies

You need Braking system and tow bar and lights (This means you can tow it)

You need the basics (Above) Plus a LP-1 Lube Pump (Can tow with modification)
Or Axle lock or Drive Shaft Disconnect (likewsie)

You can tow buit you need to follow a special procedure (I recommend against, too easy to forget special procedure) such as running the engine for 5 minutes and running it through the gears at hook up and every 400 miles or some such.

You can not tow

We do not know if you can tow

I'd choose a "Basic" model if you can.

I do believe the OP is referring to towing a trailer, not a car, could be wrong.

Jim

Sometimes it pays to read the post and not reply based on the title..... However, I guess my terminology was a little vague.