This weekend I will be picking up my new TT. I have 6 years of PUP experience under my belt, so I am pretty comfortable with everything.However, what parts and pieces should I need, or does anyone recommend when stepping into a TT.I think the only thing I really need is a sewer hose (which dealer said he would give me a used one no charge). I already have all the fresh water hoses and regulators, extension cords, wheel chocks (just the plastic jobbers), and all the typical camping stuff like lights and bags, etc.I don't see any levels on the camper so I am sure I will get some of those. I used wood planks to level the camper which I would imagine work just as well on the dual axle TT. I am purchasing a Blue Ox Sway control/WD hitch. Probably going to pick up the Bal-X chocks to supplement my plastic ground chocks.What might I be missing that is good to invest in?

Sounds like you got it covered. Be sure your battery is fully charged. Levelers do not usually come on a TT. Perhaps you mean "stabilizers" which are not to be used for leveling. Use your boards like always, just have enough for two wheels instead of one. Oh, and spring for a NEW sewer hose. They are cheap and, well, just get a new one.

The dealer will give you his cheapest and poorest quality sewer hose.Trade up for a RhinoFlex sewer hose.Congrats on your new rig...enjoy.

RoyBell wrote:This weekend I will be picking up my new TT. I think the only thing I really need is a sewer hose (which dealer said he would give me a used one no charge). I think I would pass on the "USED" hose. :h

I wasn't keen on a used hose, but it's good as a backup, right? I was planning on getting a new one with those feet I see that angle it downstream.

You'll want a good sewer hose and a 90 degree elbow. I also recommend a Flush King or similar attachment to allow back flushing of the black tank with clear portion to make it easier to tell when things are clean.Electric tongue jack will greatly help hitching and unhitching without having to manually crank to get the W/D bars on and off!A case of beer to get a neighbor to help set up sometimes helps. That usually also requires a nice chair to sit in while you wait for them to finish.

Pop-up to TT. What do I need? | Good Sam Community

teejaywhy
Explorer
Jun 07, 2015
RoyBell wrote:

... a sewer hose (which dealer said he would give me a used one no charge)...

Wow, thanks!
Chandalen
Explorer
Jun 06, 2015
Bump. I meant on a standard extension cord running am AC is a bad thing.
kknowlton
Explorer II
Jun 06, 2015
Depending on where you camp, you may want something more effective than the plastic wheel chocks. Your TT will weigh substantially more than the PUP and if you're on even the slightest slope, it will feel more stable with a good set of wheel chocks (and is less likely to roll away, in which case you have no chance of stopping it). We like the X-chocks, which fit between the wheels (they come with a detachable "wrench" that you use to adjust the chocks.

DH loves using a battery-powered drill to raise & lower the stabilizer jacks. Much easier than turning things by hand.
RoyBell
Explorer
Jun 05, 2015
220 is the wrong voltage for your trailer. Just keep doing what you are doing. It's fine as long as you're not running AC. I'm an electrician by trade as well.
dvitale300
Explorer
Jun 05, 2015
RoyBell wrote:
You can run all that fine off 115 V (not 112). It's the Air Conditioner that is the big load that will trip it. If it doesn't then I would check your breaker box as that entire load would be over 15 amps (most likely what you are plugged into). Fridge, lights, little stuff will be fine.

Sorry, meant 115v, standard three prong plug found in the garage. I have a friend who is an electrician and will have him look at it next time he's over. I wouldn't mind paying for a 220v (or whatever the dryer uses - if that would be better and safer. Thanks.
RoyBell
Explorer
Jun 05, 2015
You can run all that fine off 115 V (not 112). It's the Air Conditioner that is the big load that will trip it. If it doesn't then I would check your breaker box as that entire load would be over 15 amps (most likely what you are plugged into). Fridge, lights, little stuff will be fine.
dvitale300
Explorer
Jun 05, 2015
Maybe, just maybe, I'm using something that is extra robust; but when at home I plug into a 112 in my garage and can run my fridge, refrigerator and lights without a single problem at all. I've done it for weeks on end with no problems at all. I am using a very expensing extension cord and 30am to 112V plug extension. No blown breakers, fuses, etc. Not that I'm recommending this for anyone - but this has been my experience.
RoyBell
Explorer
Jun 05, 2015
I will get a new waste hose and parts for it. I will also look at 50 to 30 amp plugs. My PUP had 30 amp and I never had a broken plug on any of the pedastals. Bette to be prepared just in case though.

AC on 20amp circuit will trip. I do it sometimes with my PUP when plugged in at home.

Already have a P3 brake controller from PUP
Bumpyroad
Explorer
Jun 05, 2015
get rid of the stinky slinky and get either a sewer solution or macerator pump. makes waste disposal "fun" and clean.
bumpy
dvitale300
Explorer
Jun 05, 2015
New hose - period (I would also be a bit leary about a dealer who wants to give you a 'used' hose, yuck). And I agree - trade up to Rhinonflex and make sure you have a clear elbow so you can monitor waste dumps. Battery disconnect, electric brake controller, 3/4" socket for your stabilizers (if you're going to use a rechargeable drill, 50amp adapter and a 30amp to 112 volt adapter as well. One thing that I never bought, but have been very seriously thinking about it for a few months (bought my new TT in Feb), are those sewer hose levelers that even out the slope from your TT to the sewer line.

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