First post here so please have patience. I have an issue with a new to me 2014 Ram 3500 DRW 4x4 CTD. I am towing a 2012 Heartland Greystone 33CK on an Andersen UH coupled to the factory gooseneck hitch. My issue is this: the truck had factory trailer tow prep including 7 way plugs in the bed and bumper as well as the above mentioned gooseneck hitch but no factory trailer brake controller. I purchased a factory controller, installed myself and had to dealer flash the computer. All was well, the trailer settings would appear on the screen after the computer flash. I hooked to the camper for the first time, plugged in the 7 way in the bed plug, all lights function correctly (running lights, turn signals, brake, etc) but when scrolling through the menu to trailer brakes the truck displays TRAILER NOT CONNECTED. I tried the 7 way plug on the bumper and same result. I then proceeded to unplug every trailer wiring plug under the truck, clean with contact cleaner and dielectric grease and reinstall with no change whatsoever. Just for S&G I unhooked the camper and backed under my gooseneck float trailer and got the same message. I am at a loss due to I know for a fact the brakes on both trailers are in good working order as they were used regularly with my previous truck, 2008 F-350 PSD, with no problems at all. Sorry for the long winded post but what say you experts?

Have you isolated the problem to the truck? Check the plug for applied voltage to the trailer brakes (pin 2) when the truck brakes are engaged.

So you installed the module under the dash with the two connectors?

kerrlakeRoo wrote:Have you isolated the problem to the truck? Check the plug for applied voltage to the trailer brakes (pin 2) when the truck brakes are engaged.You won't see the voltage of a traditional controller

azrving wrote:So you installed the module under the dash with the two connectors?Yes I did

The best connection is a clean dry one. Using dielectric grease (which is not conductive) on those tight factory connections could certainly cause issues - if not now then potentially in the future.

2014 Ram 3500 brake controller issue | Good Sam Community

ScottG
Nomad
Aug 14, 2018
seminole39 wrote:
Thanks for all the responses. Just an update: no power according to a multimeter on the trailer brake pin when the brakes are applied. I have checked every fuse under the hood associated with the trailer brakes and all are good.

Without the load of the brake magnets present, I don't think you will see any voltage. The controller doesn't put out anything without the trailer connected.
azrving
Explorer
Aug 13, 2018
Check the small plug at the controller. Should be a positive, negative, blue out to 7 way and I believe one other wire.
seminole39
Explorer
Aug 13, 2018
Thanks for all the responses. Just an update: no power according to a multimeter on the trailer brake pin when the brakes are applied. I have checked every fuse under the hood associated with the trailer brakes and all are good.
Bedlam
Moderator
Aug 13, 2018
Is there a fuse or relay you need to add to the fuse box to get trailer or brake power?
ScottG
Nomad
Aug 13, 2018
azrving wrote:
That plug has to be tying into the ECM etc so it's in the danger zone far as introducing even multi meter voltage into it.

A good point but not to worry, the voltage used by a DMM is well below logic levels used in the ECM.
azrving
Explorer
Aug 13, 2018
You can also check for power back there at the brake terminal of the seven way I think you might see about 7 volts or so when applied.

Well you might not see anything if there's a wiring issue up there with the controller or the fusing or whatever.

Don't use any jumpers anywhere and I would pretty much leave the multi pin connector to the controller alone I think it has about 12 pins. That plug has to be tying into the ECM etc so it's in the danger zone far as introducing even multi meter voltage into it. When an ftermarket controller is used the small plug with the positive, ground, blue, red I believe will plug directly into an aftermarket brake controller.
azrving
Explorer
Aug 13, 2018
seminole39 wrote:
azrving wrote:
So you installed the module under the dash with the two connectors?
Yes I did

It's been months since I worked on mine. I put an aftermarket controller in it because of the low voltage that they put out from the factory.

So I'm picturing that when they Flash the ECM they're setting the build as it having the brake controller but that doesn't guarantee that everything in the brake controller system is okay at least that's the way I'm seeing it.
I would have to go back and look but I believe the small plug has battery positive, ground, and the blue wire goes back to the 7-way. I'm thinking I would check for a positive there and a negative and check for continuity on the blue wire all the way to the back. There is also a small single wire which I believe is red and is used as the brake signal did you hook up that small wire also. Sorry if it sounds confusing but as I said I haven't looked at it in a while

Iirc the single red brake wire was tucked up above the accelerator pedal
ScottG
Nomad
Aug 13, 2018
The best connection is a clean dry one. Using dielectric grease (which is not conductive) on those tight factory connections could certainly cause issues - if not now then potentially in the future.
seminole39
Explorer
Aug 13, 2018
azrving wrote:
So you installed the module under the dash with the two connectors?
Yes I did
azrving
Explorer
Aug 13, 2018
kerrlakeRoo wrote:
Have you isolated the problem to the truck? Check the plug for applied voltage to the trailer brakes (pin 2) when the truck brakes are engaged.

You won't see the voltage of a traditional controller

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