stevennlv wrote:
Wash and wax with a UV roof protectant. ~$220
Campingworld 45 point inspection ~$300
Maintenance on the water heater. ~$85
Maintenance on the AC. ~$100
Maintenance on the furnace. ~$149
Maintenance on the breaks and bearings. ~$300
Someone wants you to stimulate the economy…
*Wash, that seems a fair fee. People go 30 years and dont wax, but wax will keep it looking good.
*45 pt inspection, skip this. for sure, skip this.
*water heater. Drain out the water, flush, refill. Inspect the anode bar, or just replace it for a few bucks.
*AC, clean filters inside. On a house the condensor coils need to be sprayed out with a garden hose to get teh dust and cobwebs off. Maybe not such an issue on top of your roof, and I have never heard anyone on RV.net talk about this, but most do not live full time (use AC all season).
*Furnace, skip this. As long as there are no wasp nesting or birds nesting in your exhaust or other places it is fine.
*brakes, yes, but get an ordinary garage to do this. Cheaper and better mechanics likely. Mechanics that work on vehicles mechanical parts all day long, not on RV furnaces and table supports all day long.
Wheel bearings need to be checked pretty often, maybe every 7,000-15,000 miles of travel. They wear a little and need to be tightened. Im not sure why car bearings can be driven 300000 miles with no issues, but a trailer cant go 5000 without needing attention…
The brakes are a little bit more talkative, they will let you know. If you have one axle then you will know when they get weak and need to be tightened. 2 axles and you will not know until the majority of them fade. Typical brakes are not self-adjusting, so as the pad wears they need to be tightened again.
If you notice one tire skidding, then possibly that is the only one that has not worn out. Or if you notice skid marks (flat spots) on one or two tires, then there is an imbalance in the brake adjustment.
You have a 20 foot trailer, so probably two axles and a decent weight, esp full-timing with all your stuff loaded in, but the smaller the trailer (and bigger the truck) the less the brakes matter. My cargo trailer came with no brakes…
Brakes are dependent on how much they get used and how high you set the power level. I tend to set them high on the interstate, lower around town at slow speeds where the truck can stop everything fast and safe, and off when moving around the campground, backing up, or any maneuver where they are a hinderance.