Any reason I'd need weight distribution?

[x98grow]

Another noob here to the world of hauling a TT. I've got a Shadow Cruiser 185fbs that I'm hauling with a Dodge Ram. The Shadow Cruiser is ultralight, 2600 lbs with a 300lb tongue weight. When I hook it up, the rear of the truck sinks slightly but still rides evenly. I've hauled it a couple times now and it seems to ride well.
I haven't had any issue with sway but I still plan to install a friction sway control for longer trips. My questions i need confirmation on are these:
1. Since the truck seems to ride evenly and handle well without weight distribution and the trailer is light, would there still be any reason to install weight distribution?
And
2. Without weight distribution, is it correct that friction sway control is my only option?
Thank in advance!

[goducks10]

I would say after looking at your pic in your profile that you should've got a dually and a Pro Pride or Hensley for that TT:)

JMO, but I seriously doubt that TT will drop the rear much on any truck. If it tows fine as is and your under your recievers rating. Just hitch and go.

[Slowmover]

x98grow wrote:
Wow, lotsa great info from everyone. I guess I was wrong in assuming it was a simple question. I'm headed out this weekend so I intend to get 'er loaded up and get an accurate TW measurement. I'm now leaning towards WD with sway control as I agree it could be pushing 500lbs TW once fully loaded. I'm thinking there'll be a situation before too long that I'm glad I have it as we've got a couple good sized trips in the works. I'll update once I get it set up and have a chance to test it out.

If anyone's interested, I uploaded a pic of my rig to my profile. Thanks all.

I would include full fresh water and full propane. Full fuel in truck. Representative weight of pax (150-lbs each).

[x98grow]

Wow, lotsa great info from everyone. I guess I was wrong in assuming it was a simple question. I'm headed out this weekend so I intend to get 'er loaded up and get an accurate TW measurement. I'm now leaning towards WD with sway control as I agree it could be pushing 500lbs TW once fully loaded. I'm thinking there'll be a situation before too long that I'm glad I have it as we've got a couple good sized trips in the works. I'll update once I get it set up and have a chance to test it out.

If anyone's interested, I uploaded a pic of my rig to my profile. Thanks all.

[Desert_Captain]

Gdetrailer wrote:
Wow, boy did this thread go way off the trail chasing bunnies.

The OP Has a Ram truck (exact model unknown) and is asking about a 20ft (or a bit less) trailer which weighs in around 3K with tongue weight of 300 lbs.

Some how things have gotten twisted...

Putting WD for the sake of "having it" is just wasting money and time.

I would doubt that the OP will put more than 500 lbs on the tongue.

With that light of a tongue load WD CAN make the setup unstable by removing too much weight from the rear axle (think lost traction).

Even a half ton truck is capable of carrying 500 lbs on the hitch without any need for WD. It is a truck, it is designed to have 1K lbs or more in the bed alone, if it can't support that weight then you shouldn't put a feather into the back of a truck without WD...

Time out here.... First of all you need to read the entire thread. No one here has suggested that he get WDH "for the sake of having it". Second, the OP will likely roll down the road around 4,000# which = 500+# of TW. Lets not forget that the WDH weighs in around 100# which is also right on the ball. With the large CCC of that trailer he could be substantially heavier, up to an additional 2,000#.

Many Dodge half tons are notoriously light on payload , some as low as 1200#. As I recommended in the second sentence of my original post the OP would be wise to take the rig to the CAT Scale. Absent that info we are all just speculating. Yes you can put 1,000# in most half tons but normal loading will have the majority of that forward of the rear axle and certainly will not place 500# behind the bumper. As I also recommended a simple measurement of the movement/height of the front fender will be very revealing. Put 500# behind the bumper and we both know the front end is going to get light which is exactly what a WDH is designed to correct.

WDH's come in a wide range of sizes/weight ratings and the proper WDH WILL improve the overall towing and stability vs naked ball towing and will NOT, EVER damage the trailer. Having the right WDH setup has no downside and provides a nice cushion for those trips where a heavier load can be safely accommodated. :C

[gmw_photos]

Gdetrailer wrote:
Wow, boy did this thread go way off the trail chasing bunnies.

The OP Has a Ram truck (exact model unknown) and is asking about a 20ft (or a bit less) trailer which weighs in around 3K with tongue weight of 300 lbs.

Some how things have gotten twisted...

Putting WD for the sake of "having it" is just wasting money and time.

I would doubt that the OP will put more than 500 lbs on the tongue.

With that light of a tongue load WD CAN make the setup unstable by removing too much weight from the rear axle (think lost traction).

Even a half ton truck is capable of carrying 500 lbs on the hitch without any need for WD. It is a truck, it is designed to have 1K lbs or more in the bed alone, if it can't support that weight then you shouldn't put a feather into the back of a truck without WD...

Sorry, but respectfully disagree with your analysis. First, the OP's trailer is going to weigh right around 4000 pounds. I have nearly the identical trailer he has....different model line from the same manufacturer. A 4000 pound trailer will have approx 520 pounds hitch weight at 13%. I would suspect the owner will carry at least a few things in the bed of the truck when he goes camping, and while I know that is somewhat a different issue, still, it is weight that will make the back of the truck sink further into it's suspension travel.
An example of a WD hitch would be my BlueOx. They state that we need a minimum of 350 pounds tongue weight to use this hitch, and in my case, I use 550 pound bars. I would suspect this would also be a good matchup for his Ram, if it is indeed a 1500.
A correctly setup WD hitch is not going to make the drive axle be "lighter" than it is when the truck is solo.

I stand by my statement: his towing experience will be safer and more comfortable with a WD hitch than without.

Your mileage and setup may vary.....honest men can disagree.

[Gdetrailer]

Wow, boy did this thread go way off the trail chasing bunnies.

The OP Has a Ram truck (exact model unknown) and is asking about a 20ft (or a bit less) trailer which weighs in around 3K with tongue weight of 300 lbs.

Some how things have gotten twisted...

Putting WD for the sake of "having it" is just wasting money and time.

I would doubt that the OP will put more than 500 lbs on the tongue.

With that light of a tongue load WD CAN make the setup unstable by removing too much weight from the rear axle (think lost traction).

Even a half ton truck is capable of carrying 500 lbs on the hitch without any need for WD. It is a truck, it is designed to have 1K lbs or more in the bed alone, if it can't support that weight then you shouldn't put a feather into the back of a truck without WD...

[TomG2]

gmw photos wrote:
.............snip
Ha ! Ha ! Tom....work with me here ! I know you are a user of and a supporter of the Andersen weight distributing/sway control hitch. And I am pretty sure that you know that I have expressed at least "some" concerns over it's function in "certain" towing configurations. HOWEVER....I'm thinking that this particular tow vehicle/trailer combination just might be a very good match for the Andersen and the way it functions both from a sway control and weight distribution perspective.

Your thoughts ?

george

You are very astute and correct in your analysis. However! I am not getting into another "What's wrong with the Andersen hitch" diatribe.

[gmw_photos]

TomG2 wrote:

gmw photos wrote:
The bottom line in my way of thinking, to bring this back on topic to the original question, I would be willing to bet that if the OP takes his rig out and drives it in a variety of conditions ( wind from different directions, hills, two lane roads with vehicles blasting by the opposite direction a few feet away, and also four lane divided with vehicles like 18 wheelers blasting by travel the same direction ).... do all this just on the ball........and then do the same with a properly setup WD hitch and sway control.......he will prefer the weight distributed setup.
....and if that wasn't a run on sentence, then I don't know what is......

I agree, at least the part about the sway control, which is a totally different thing than weight distribution.

Ha ! Ha ! Tom....work with me here ! I know you are a user of and a supporter of the Andersen weight distributing/sway control hitch. And I am pretty sure that you know that I have expressed at least "some" concerns over it's function in "certain" towing configurations. HOWEVER....I'm thinking that this particular tow vehicle/trailer combination just might be a very good match for the Andersen and the way it functions both from a sway control and weight distribution perspective.

Your thoughts ?

george

[TomG2]

gmw photos wrote:
The bottom line in my way of thinking, to bring this back on topic to the original question, I would be willing to bet that if the OP takes his rig out and drives it in a variety of conditions ( wind from different directions, hills, two lane roads with vehicles blasting by the opposite direction a few feet away, and also four lane divided with vehicles like 18 wheelers blasting by travel the same direction ).... do all this just on the ball........and then do the same with a properly setup WD hitch and sway control.......he will prefer the weight distributed setup.
....and if that wasn't a run on sentence, then I don't know what is......

I agree, at least the part about the sway control, which is a totally different thing than weight distribution.

[TomG2]

I will be honest, I did not realize many were using GM 1500's to tow over 9,900 pounds. But I do bet they all came with an owner's manual. Whether it is your FALR, tongue weight, or GVW, there will always be a defined number that the owner can choose to follow or disregard. A little common sense and judgment is sometimes required.

[gmw_photos]

The bottom line in my way of thinking, to bring this back on topic to the original question, I would be willing to bet that if the OP takes his rig out and drives it in a variety of conditions ( wind from different directions, hills, two lane roads with vehicles blasting by the opposite direction a few feet away, and also four lane divided with vehicles like 18 wheelers blasting by travel the same direction ).... do all this just on the ball........and then do the same with a properly setup WD hitch and sway control.......he will prefer the weight distributed setup.
....and if that wasn't a run on sentence, then I don't know what is......

[Ron_Gratz]

TomG2 wrote:
Confused? Why?
Those reqirements are for the 1500 series. Not many 1500's are rated for over 9, 900 pounds if any.
Owners should read their own manual.

How many does it take?

According to the online 2013 Chevrolet Silverado Owner Manual,
there are four configurations of the 6.2L V8 NHT with Max Trailering Package which have "Maximum Trailer Weights" in excess of 9,900#

There are many more Silverado 1500's rated for over 7,000#.

And, I believe the OP has a 1/2 ton truck.

Ron

[jmtandem]

Confused? Why?
Those reqirements are for the 1500 series. Not many 1500's are rated for over 9, 900 pounds if any.
Owners should read their own manual.

Except, of course, the Toyota half ton. It can pull the space shuttle. Oh wait, that is not in the owners manual either. My bad, carry on!

[TomG2]

Confused? Why?
Those requirements are for the GM 1500 series. Not many 1500's are rated for over 9,900 pounds, if any.
Owners should read their own manual.