Are There Anti-Sway Options 2.5" Hitch?

[jerryalan]

I recently purchased a 2016 Ford F250 to replace my older Yukon. I have a WDH with a 2" shank but now I need a 2.5" shank to fit (not comfortable with the sleeve I've been using). I no longer need to use the weight distribution bars as my trailer is no more than 7,000 pounds loaded and the truck can handle 12,500 without a WDH but I'd still like to use the friction sway control if possible. However, I cannot find a ball mount that includes a mount for the sway ball, and I cannot find an adapter to add to it for a 2.5" hitch.

Wondering what my options are for this.

Thanks!

[jerryalan]

Lynnmor wrote:
I think that the front RAISED 1/2" so you would bring it back down 1/4".

LOL, yup, raised.

[Kevinwa]

bartlettj wrote:
I use my wdh bars on my 2500hd even though I dont need to because it rides better with them (doesn't porpoise), and they also add some safety in keeping the hitch positively on the ball.

Same for me. My trailer rides so good with them that I wouldn’t consider without and I have an F350 and a 5000 pound camper. I have a Reese SC with integrated sway control. It is available with 2.5” shank. My truck is so much smoother with the trailer attached then when bouncing down the highway empty.

[Lynnmor]

jerryalan wrote:
I’ll take a look at mine. I measured the front before and after hooking up the TT and it only lowered a half inch. I’ll measure again next time I take it with a full tank of fresh water as I’m sure I’ll get more movement but should I still use the WDH to lower it a quarter inch?

I think that the front RAISED 1/2" so you would bring it back down 1/4".

[bartlettj]

I use my wdh bars on my 2500hd even though I dont need to because it rides better with them (doesn't porpoise), and they also add some safety in keeping the hitch positively on the ball.

[jerryalan]

I’ll take a look at mine. I measured the front before and after hooking up the TT and it only lowered a half inch. I’ll measure again next time I take it with a full tank of fresh water as I’m sure I’ll get more movement but should I still use the WDH to lower it a quarter inch?

[Lynnmor]

jerryalan wrote:


What does the overload spring look like? I bought my 2016 F250 used so I'm not sure if it has the camper package or not. Has the 2.5" hitch and brake controller, along with sway control in the computer.

I'm hooking up the camper tonight so I'll take before and after measurements of the front and rear wheel well heights.

The overload springs are just another leaf in the spring pack that becomes engaged and begins to support after the main leaves are compressed. I think all models have one leaf and optional packages have two. The 2016 did a little better than earlier models with the sag. Read your owners manual and you will see that the FRONT is to be brought back by 50% of what it changed by adjusting the WDH. Weight distribution is for returning some of the weight to the front and any help with sagging is incidental. If the rear still is sagging too much, air bags or heavier springs are in order.

[jerryalan]

Sgeorge wrote:
On many of the TT sites and Ford truck sites it is common to see complaints about how fast the F250 squat. I have a 2016 F250 with the camper package so it has the overload spring.

What does the overload spring look like? I bought my 2016 F250 used so I'm not sure if it has the camper package or not. Has the 2.5" hitch and brake controller, along with sway control in the computer.

I'm hooking up the camper tonight so I'll take before and after measurements of the front and rear wheel well heights.

[Sgeorge]

On many of the TT sites and Ford truck sites it is common to see complaints about how fast the F250 squat. I have a 2016 F250 with the camper package so it has the overload spring. My TT hitch weight is only 600 LBS and it squats about two inches when hooked up. Almost touching the overload. You might find that using a WDH will be needed to get the truck level while towing. Love the truck, but I don't like how fast it squats before getting stiff using all the payload.

[mkirsch]

Never seen a FACTORY non-WDH ball mount that had a friction sway control ball. Seen a few where someone had welded one on.

I would just do as the others have recommnended, and get a 2.5" shank for the WDH and use the hitch head, just without the bars.

Frankly I would either upgrade to an integrated WDH/sway control, or not use one at all, but that's a different discussion. Odds are your truck's front does rise about an inch, but it's not really enough to be a bother on a truck that size.

[jerryalan]

Walaby wrote:
One thing to consider.

If your TV breaks down in the middle of nowhere, and you need your TV and TT both towed, the tow truck that picks you up may/probably will need your hitch to hook your TT up behind them. Their hitch may only be 2".

Good point! I can keep my Pro-Series WDH with the 2" shank in the TT for such purposes. I'll have to switch over to my Equilizer hitch as Pro-Series doesn't make a 2.5" shank so the WDH won't match but at least the TV will have a usable hitch.

[Walaby]

One thing to consider.

If your TV breaks down in the middle of nowhere, and you need your TV and TT both towed, the tow truck that picks you up may/probably will need your hitch to hook your TT up behind them. Their hitch may only be 2".

Don't ask me how I know this first hand... fortunately I had a 2 inch shank. If I had a 2 1/2 in shank, the trailer would have been sitting on the side of the road, 50 miles from home in middle of nowhere.

Mike

[jerryalan]

rwess wrote:
I have an Equalizer that I changed from a 2" class 4 to a 2 1/2" class 5. It is heavy.

Yeah, I was hoping for a non-WDH option to save on the weight but it seems that it's my only option. I guess I'll just have to have the strongest back in the RV camp 😉

I read the sticky about setting up the TT hitches and didn't realize that I needed to measure the rise of the front of my truck. I just assumed with 12,500 tow capacity I didn't need the WDH but I'll check that this weekend, maybe I do.

[rwess]

I have an Equalizer that I changed from a 2" class 4 to a 2 1/2" class 5. It is heavy.

[jerryalan]

hawkeye-08 wrote:
You should be able to find a new shank that will fit into 2 1/2" receiver and work with your WDH..

Try this https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-sf-Weight_Distribution-pt-Shanks-pc-Fits_2%7E1%7C2_Inch_Hitch.aspx

Ah, thanks. I was looking at the non-WDH receivers and didn't think to look at the shanks for WDH.