Bad Safe-T-Alert CO/LP detector

[jstaffon]

I'm hoping I can get some help from others who have had the same or similar problem. My 2016 Rockwood came with a Safe-T-Alert CO/LP detector located just inside the entry door near the floor. We were dry camping in the mountains of Idaho on its maiden voyage last year and around 3am, I hear this ear piercing beep coming from the downstairs area of my 5th wheel. After some investigating and testing, I found out my batteries were at around 11.3 volts and the CO/LP detector was in a "Failed" state due to low voltage. The solution that evening was to start my generator and let it run all night. The next evening, same thing happened. Needless to say, we cut our trip short and took the trailer back to Camping World to have them check things out. The batteries were tested (ok) and the CO/LP detector was tested to make sure it would sense CO and LP (ok). The low voltage issue I complained about was not checked. Long story short...we've replaced the unit 3 times over the course of several months and still have the same issue. According to the documentation and Safe-T-Alert's Support personnel, the detector is supposed to issue a low voltage alarm at 10 volts and a failure alarm at 7 volts. I'm getting the failure alarm at 11.3 volts. Oddly enough, if I put the detector on the variable voltage supply, it will alarm at 11.3 volts and recover at 11.5 volts. Safe-T-Alert doesn't seem to be interested in fixing the issue. Their solution is to send another unit in hopes of finding one that works as documented. My concern is that there are 100s or 1000s of campers out there with faulty CO/LP detectors. If it doesn't operate as documented, how can you be certain it will save your life if CO ends up in your camper. Right now, I'm operating with a portable CO detector in my bedroom area and I have the Safe-T-Alert unit disconnected. Has anyone else had the same problem or similar and are there any solutions. This has been going on for a year now and can't seem to get anyone to act. I would like to find something permanent instead of using portable detectors. Thanks in advance!

[CavemanCharlie]

Greyghost wrote:
I have to comment on our situation, it's comical. We have had ongoing issues very similar to yours but it was/is not caused by low voltage. We have three large dogs and every time our detector goes off, one of the dogs is sleeping with their hind end under the detector. It's always the one of the two gassy dogs.

I had a dog like that in my home once. He would outgas in the living room and then get up and move into the kitchen.

[Greyghost]

I have to comment on our situation, it's comical. We have had ongoing issues very similar to yours but it was/is not caused by low voltage. We have three large dogs and every time our detector goes off, one of the dogs is sleeping with their hind end under the detector. It's always the one of the two gassy dogs.

[CavemanCharlie]

I agree that you should just get a 9 volt battery unit for peace of mind.

Do you have LED lights in your camper? If not by converting to LED bulbs you can save a lot of electricity and maybe then not need to charge up your batteries before bed by running the generator.

I have heard that some refrigerators have a electric element in the door to keep it from getting frosty. Check out yours, if you can't shut it off some of them can be unhooked behind the refrigerator light.

The radio memory wire can have a switch put in it saving a little too. Every little bit counts.

Any other electric saving changes you can do will help too.

Read the other posts on this forum about saving electricity or, start another thread on the subject.

Have a nice Day

[jstaffon]

gwh1bass wrote:
It is rather irritating when the CO detector goes off due to low a voltage level.

We camp without hookups, so are dependent on batteries for the 12 volt juice. I do not have a way to recharge batteries while camping, so on longer trips the batteries tend to get discharged deep.

I got rid of the factory detector and replaced with a 9 volt battery unit.

Same here. No hookups during the summer trips. For the time being, I've got a nice Kidde CO detector in the bedroom right now while I try to find a good quality built-in unit to replace the factory installation. Doesn't look like I'll be successful.

[NYCgrrl]

gwh1bass wrote:


I got rid of the factory detector and replaced with a 9 volt battery unit.

Sounds like the easiest and safest response.

[gwh1bass]

It is rather irritating when the CO detector goes off due to low a voltage level.

We camp without hookups, so are dependent on batteries for the 12 volt juice. I do not have a way to recharge batteries while camping, so on longer trips the batteries tend to get discharged deep.

I got rid of the factory detector and replaced with a 9 volt battery unit.

[jstaffon]

CampCritter wrote:
I recently had the same problem with a Safe-T-Alert detector. Mine was showing a malfunction alarm when the supply voltage dropped to ~11.5 volts. I called the manufacturer (MTI Industries) and was told that they had reports of this problem. The detector was only a few months old and still under warranty. MTI sent out a replacement unit and when I received it, I sent the defective one back to them. I tested the replacement on a power supply down to 9 VDC, and it didn't show a malfunction alarm.

I should probably also mention, that when I had the malfunction alarm on the detector, the battery voltage was at ~11.9. I was load testing the battery, and had almost everything that ran on 12 volts turned on in the trailer.

That sounds like my problem only with slightly different voltages. Unfortunately, I've tried several different units and still have the problem. In my opinion, I can't trust Safe-T-Alert anymore. They won't resolve the issue and the device is too important to rely on their product. Thanks for backing me up. I thought I was the only one having problems.

[CampCritter]

I recently had the same problem with a Safe-T-Alert detector. Mine was showing a malfunction alarm when the supply voltage dropped to ~11.5 volts. I called the manufacturer (MTI Industries) and was told that they had reports of this problem. The detector was only a few months old and still under warranty. MTI sent out a replacement unit and when I received it, I sent the defective one back to them. I tested the replacement on a power supply down to 9 VDC, and it didn't show a malfunction alarm.

I should probably also mention, that when I had the malfunction alarm on the detector, the battery voltage was at ~11.9. I was load testing the battery, and had almost everything that ran on 12 volts turned on in the trailer.

[dewey02]

To the OP:
You can choose not to believe the very sound advice that many here have given you. But why not do a bit of poking around the internet and go to well-respected sites like Trojan (quality battery makers) or others and check for yourself? Yes, your batteries will come back up with a good charging, but they will last just a fraction of the number of cycles you would normally get from them. Taking your batteries down to a 20 percent charge is harmful to your batteries and will severely shorten their life.

But they are your batteries and it is your money, so you can spend it anyway you want.

[westend]

Some of you have posted about my batteries and the low voltage being the problem. I got it and thank you...I agree that's not ideal. But I also believe the Boost cycle (14.5 v) of my smart charger takes care of the sulfation on the plates and helps extend the life of the batteries.

The 14.5V absorption stage voltage is on the low end of many RV converters. It will certainly recover your battery charge if left at that voltage long enough. It does little to remove excess sulfation. An equalize charge of over 15 V is needed for that when batteries are fully charged.

Batteries have an expected life and it is ruled by amount of discharge and number of cycles at the depth of discharge. There are many resources to explain this and the battery mfg may have that information listed.

Battery University has an article on FLA batteries and how cycle life pertains to depth of discharge. There numbers are conservative but the relationships are sound.

[beemerphile1]

If I was ever inattentive enough to run my batteries down to 10 percent, I would really appreciate an alarm sounding.

[jstaffon]

FLY 4 FUN wrote:
You can head to Home Depot or any big box store and grab a combo LP/CO detector or separate units for $30-40

Please don't take offense to the above posters focusing on your voltage issues as I also believe your detector is working properly. I suspect the low voltage is causing it to go off despite what the specs say on the unit. If you buy a 9v powered unit then you will for sure have a piece of mind solution.

Glad you are keen to keep this safety system working

Cheers

Thanks!

[jstaffon]

Thanks all for your input. I have received many good comments and plan to use them. As I've mentioned before in many of my posts, this forum is awesome and I respect the people who take the time to reply in a professional manner. Thank you!

Some of you have posted about my batteries and the low voltage being the problem. I got it and thank you...I agree that's not ideal. But I also believe the Boost cycle (14.5 v) of my smart charger takes care of the sulfation on the plates and helps extend the life of the batteries. I never would have found out about the CO/LP detector failing on the fringes if my batteries stayed at a healthy voltage above 12 vdc. My intent was to alert people of a potential design flaw and was hoping people would be interested and concerned that an important device like the CO/LP detector was not operating properly within the documented design specs. I also believe its a wide-spread problem and not just an issue with mine.

I already have a portable CO and LP detector placed in different locations around my camper but I was hoping to find a good quality detector and install it in the location where my current Safe-T-Alert detector is located.

Again folks, thanks for your input to this post. Cheers! .. and happy RV'ing!

[ol_Bombero-JC]

jstaffon wrote:

allen8106 wrote:

jstaffon wrote:

Krusty wrote:
I think I would be tempted to find and repair the real problem. Why is your voltage going so low?

I asked that same question and I was told that's not unusual for a rig my size when dry camping in the mountains. Highs can be in the 70s with lows in the 20s. My furnace turns on frequently in the evening along with the normal electrical things like the fans for my fridge. I've had my batteries tested by two separate organizations and they are good. If I top off the batteries several hours before I go to bed, everything is ok all night. Realistically, you're up doing things with lights on until you go to bed. I also have solar panels that top off the batteries during the day but the time between sunset and bed time knocks the edge off the batteries and down to about 12 volts. When I monitor the current draw during the day, I don't find any one thing that causes me concerns.

Regardless, you are taking your batteries too low. Therein lies the problem. Use less power, get a bigger battery bank or run the generator longer.

I've been talking to a couple of my HAM friends that also dry camp....also in the mountains of Idaho. They see drops in battery voltage similar to mine and don't see an issue with running the batteries that low. There are occasions where that happens on a regular basis. Because of the harsher than normal conditions in the mountains, Camping World always installs a second battery in all of their campers they sell. Since I have two batteries in parallel I thought maybe one of them was weak or bad. In a parallel configuration, the weakest battery will drag down the good one. However, both test OK.

Regardless of the low voltage issue with the batteries, the issue that concerns me is the fact that the Safe-T-Alert fails at a higher than documented voltage and never goes into a "Low Voltage Alarm State" at something above 11.3 vdc. Documentation states 10 vdc is the low voltage alarm point. Having a good CO detector installed in my camper is important to me. Finding a solution to my batteries doesn't solve the problem that I have a faulty CO/LP detector in my camper. One that the manufacturer doesn't seem interested in fixing. I was hoping someone could recommend a replacement unit or some other DIY solution I haven't thought of yet.

Thanks.

GADS!

YOU asked, you received many correct answers..:S

If you choose not to believe them - do whatever rings your chimes..:R

Toss the detector you have, buy a different brand of detector (not powered by house battery) and be done with it.

If that one doesn't work - you know where to return it..

~