CAMCO EAZ-LIFT

[jaragon]

I have a 2008 Keystone Passport that has the axles flipped so it sits a little bit higher than normal. My question is I recently purchased a EAZ-LIFT weight distribution hitch for my 2010 RAM 2500. I set up the hitch and bars but am only able to clip to the first link when lifting the bars, is this sufficient, it seems as though my drop in tow vehicle is 1/2 inch in the rear and a 1/2 inch rise in the front. I have tried to tilt the hitch up but than that puts too much weight on the rear of the tow vehicle and does not allow even distribution.

Thank you,

JAragon

[jerem0621]

Bheffington wrote:

jerem0621 wrote:
I just use my grease gun and use the same automotive grade grease you use to grease the suspension.

It is absolutely essential to use grease on the balls And in the WD bar sockets in the hitch head.

Thanks,

Jeremiah

Can you point me to a link that can document this? Grease on the ball is a personal preference. Never in 30 years of towing stuff, have I greased a ball, never a problem. I do grease the bar ends due to the added stress and the fact that there is a grease zert there.

Sure thing,

Reese Trunnion Hitch Install Instructions

Look on page 3 under "Lubrication".. Basically, everything I said above.

How about Hensley Manufacturing.. Manufacturers of the Hensley Arrow.. check out page 9 of the document below (Page 13 of the PDF file)

Hensley Arrow Install instructions

Since this thread is about the EAZ-Lift hitch, a simple look at their instructions reveals the same thing on page 4, they emphasize lubrication of the contacts and the hitch ball.. similarly to how I did above.

Eaz-lift hitch install instructions

Can you tow without grease on the ball? Yes you can. Will it increase the wear and tear on not only the ball but the coupler? Yes it will.

A ball is basically a bearing surface, metal on metal contact will wear. If you use a very hard ball (Like a 30,000 lb ball) you probably don't see the wear marks like you would with a 10,000 lb ball, but something is wearing, if its not the ball, then its the coupler.

I suggest greasing the ball just like WD hitch manufacturers recommend.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[Bheffington]

jerem0621 wrote:
I just use my grease gun and use the same automotive grade grease you use to grease the suspension.

It is absolutely essential to use grease on the balls And in the WD bar sockets in the hitch head.

Thanks,

Jeremiah

Can you point me to a link that can document this? Grease on the ball is a personal preference. Never in 30 years of towing stuff, have I greased a ball, never a problem. I do grease the bar ends due to the added stress and the fact that there is a grease zert there.

[jerem0621]

I just use my grease gun and use the same automotive grade grease you use to grease the suspension.

It is absolutely essential to use grease on the balls And in the WD bar sockets in the hitch head.

Thanks,

Jeremiah

[Heelshock]

I printed Les Adams' setup instructions that are on the Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure sticky. They came in VERY handy. It turns out my shot in the dark on the angle was pretty good. Unfortunately, my ball height was WAY off. I ended up reversing the shank.

The trailer is about an inch off level to the upside. I know even or a little bit nose down is ideal, but I hadn't loaded the truck or the TT yet. I think it will drop down nicely, but I'll make sure next week before we head out. I ended up with a result that I'm very happy with and is a noticeable difference towing.

93Cobra2771 wrote:
And don't forget to grease both the ball and the bar ends.

What kind / brand of grease do you recommend?

[93Cobra2771]

You really don't know until you hook up. You can do a little math and get somewhere close. Or do what most of us did, and guess at it for the first hookup. Every truck and tt setup is different.

And yes, you will probably be moving bolts and changing angle.

One HUGE thing to do - BE SURE you have the ball tightened up. And by tight, I mean somewhere in the neighborhood of 450ftlb. In other words, a 200# man, using at least a 2' lever (wrench with a pipe on it) and basically sitting on the wrench. That will give you a minimum of 400ftlb.

If you don't get it tight, then you run the possibility of the ball loosening up on a trip. And that's bad.

And don't forget to grease both the ball and the bar ends.

[goingnorth]

On my 2 TT and 4 different trucks through the years I have had my hitch set up 11 deg back. This is the difference between the shank and the top of the ball. This could be a start, this helps push the front end down, my set ups have all been with the reece dual cam but it could be the same for you.

Protractor

[Heelshock]

I got the ball assembly put together this afternoon. Heading to the parking lot tomorrow to set the bars. I have a some questions.

How could I know what angle to set the ball assembly at when assembling if I don't know where I need it to be? To reset the angle is no small feat, having to undo the 2 bolts through the shank, loosen the set screw, then reset the thumb screw...then tighten every back up again. The angle of the assembly is to adjust the angle of the bars, is that correct?

[goingnorth]

One thing to remember is every thing changes when fully loaded, With batteries, full propane, clothes in the front closet, and a bed full of wood, cooler and other camping stuff you could be much lower in the rear of the truck.

I also have to drive about 10 miles to set up my hitch as I live on a dirt road. Its a pain and my FIL always laughs when I take the TT out to adjust the hitch. I just got a new truck and it takes a couple times setting it up to get it right, first unloaded to get it close then fully loaded for a trip I may fine tune it. Then I added supersprings overload leaf and have to start over again. The back of my truck sat a 1/2 lower than the front when unloaded with a cap and tools in the back.

[93Cobra2771]

Same for me, nothing level. Took mine to the local school parking lot.

[Heelshock]

My Eaz-Lift arrives tomorrow. I'm going to have to take it to a parking lot to get it set up. There isn't a level spot to be found around home. :M

[93Cobra2771]

Needs to be done unhooked and with no load.

There is a set screw below the thumb screw. Once the thumbwheel is where it needs to be, then the set screw needs to be turned in so it bottoms out as well.

[Heelshock]

CHD Dad wrote:
Looks like he has a thumb screw setup. That is new for a EAZ-Lift, at least I havent seen it before. Regardless, dial it back some and reduce the front end load.

Can this thumb screw be adjusted while the trailer is connected?

[CHD_Dad]

Yes, just move the balls over. If you have both I would use both, they recommend two for TT's over 26ft long.

[jaragon]

Thanks.
I do have the sway control setup now just had to move balls to new hitch? You think just one sway bar or both I have two of them?