Best to actually weigh it's axle, fully loaded ready to go RV'ing....but....while shopping...ball park guesstimating you will need both listed dry weights & ratings AND the GVWR of the trailer(s)
You can figure the tongue or PIN percentage weight of it's dry condition...then use that percentage to multiply the GVWR and that begets a ball park tongue or PIN to figure what your TV is rated for
Of course you should also weigh your TV axle's fully loaded ready to go in order to not be guesstimating there too
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...